Harsh Sonawala is the co founder of India Someday and since his childhood, he has travelled to different parts of India and the world. The thrill of travelling and sharing his experiences with others was the reason behind starting India Someday. Other than the office where he is conjuring up marketing ideas, he can be found scuba diving in the Andamans or relaxing in a chalet in the Himalayas.
Mary Tilson is a yoga instructor with a passion for travel. This blog is on her crossing through the capital of India, suggesting the best routes and things to do in Delhi. You can follow her adventures on Instagram at @mctilson.
I’ll preface this blogpost by saying that in the last two years that I’ve spent travelling Southeast Asia and India, I tend to focus my travel plans around the natural beauty each country has to offer. Needless to say, a city like Delhi did not quite meet those standards. Yet I knew my trip to India wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the crazy, chaotic city life I had been warned so much about, even if just for a day or two. So here it goes!
Gazing at the beautiful architecture Delhi has to offer (Photo Credit – Swarnava Chakraborty)
Travelling to Delhi
I firstly departed from Rajasthan to Delhi on an overnight train. My seat in 3AC was very pleasant, to my surprise! Previously I read advice on the blog on how to pick my tickets and it was super useful! I had the whole lower level of seating with a table to layout my computer and work from, and comfortable bed space for the night. I also had the pleasure of being seated across from the sweetest Indian lady who was travelling alone for the first time to visit her daughter at school. She called me over to sit with her and share cookies and even woke me up bright and early for one last chat before we got off the train. I hope all of you get so lucky!
My accommodation in Delhi was at Stops Hostel. This is an excellent home base, particularly for solo travellers. I quickly found a nice spot in the cinema/lounge area to roll out my yoga mat and recuperate. There’s also a communal kitchen which serves free breakfast and a cosy bar/café style lounge. In the lobby, you’ll find bulletins with daily activities – from group sightseeing tours to Indian cooking classes and evening bar crawls.
I decided to spend the afternoon exploring by foot with a new German friend I had met in the lounge. The man at the front desk handed us a map and drew a loop of the best things to do in Delhi. All were within walking distance of the hostel. We made our way from the Red Fort to the Spice Market further visiting Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. All were accessible and convenient.
The Jama Masjid is but one of many historical monuments in Delhi for you to see (Photo Credit – Yuvraj Sachdeva)
Things to do in Delhi
As a solo female traveller, I was grateful to have company with me from the hostel. There were some city blocks where I was the only woman in sight. Furthermore, many streets are over-crowded. Be prepared to be hassled by eager vendors and cyclists ready to pull you down the street. If you remain open-minded and breathe through the chaos, the streets of India are a pretty amazing experience. It is full of colourful buildings draped with hundreds of hanging wires and the aroma of fresh tea from the enthusiastic street vendors! At one point, I remember spotting a monkey walking across the electrical lines. I imagined us sharing the same thought – how the hell have we got ourselves into this mess! Two days in Delhi were enough to give me my first fix, and it was well worth the stop!
My second time crossing the capital my friend and I decided to hop on one of the tours. We visited the India Gate, Rajpath, the President’s House, Cathedral Church of Redemption, the Ancient Haunted Stepwell, and a couple of others! We had a good time getting to know our local guide, who also puts on a lot of the evening activities around the city. There are also so many different and exciting things to do in Delhi. If you’re going to be crossing through the capital, as I did multiple times, it’s worth giving yourself time to check out all there is to offer!
From divine desert dunes to sacred lakes and simple village life, I’ve been feeling the India pulse and loving it. My India Someday – You Wander We Pay itinerary has been chock full of varied landscapes and city scenes. I can’t lie though – sometimes the cacophony of the cities makes me lose my mind.
Horn honking seems to be the official sound of this country. It’s accompanied by the loud rumbles of autorickshaws travelling in every direction, with visible exhaust blowing out the back.
I always knew Delhi was on my itinerary but was sort of in denial about it. I had been warned extensively about the dirt, chaos and general craziness. Several fellow travellers shared awful stories of Delhi-induced travel fighting.
My next stop would be Delhi and boy, was I dreading it. I even let friends back home know I’d finally have some more time to catch up and to get some writing done. I thought I’d hate Delhi so much and never want to leave my lodgings!
Crazy traffic in Delhi
The train journey
My train (I love my train rides!) from charming Pushkar (well, Ajmer actually) arrived Delhi close to midnight. I was sitting next to some fun young women, (and some drunk men!). They live in Delhi and were coming from a 10-year reunion from their boarding school.
These professionals who run their own businesses or work for internet companies warned me to never trust rickshaws, never take regular taxis. Be careful on the metro, and basically fear all men in the city – essentially confirming many rumblings I’ve heard before. What an awful place this sounded like.
Exiting the train, I was bombarded by all sorts of chaos. Primarily rickshaw and taxi drivers harassing me as I tried to find my way to the pre-paid taxi booth. I negotiated with one and we got on our way, though not without some trepidation on my part.
Using a map on my phone, I followed along. I also had the driver speak to someone at the guesthouse where I’d be staying. This is a recommended measure to confirm the driver knows where to go and also knows someone is waiting for me!
The view outside the train window (Photo Credit – Moneycontrol)
My first impression
Granted it was midnight and much of the city was at rest, but I was still quite surprised by the relatively traffic-free, smooth, well-maintained highways and roads. No cows or goats or camels in sight! As we approached some of the smaller streets, I noticed they were absolutely quiet. I might actually use the word peaceful.
They were tree-lined and I even spotted some sidewalks. We were in the neighbourhood of GK-1 (Greater Kalish) in South Delhi which I now understand is DRASTICALLY different from Old Delhi. Particularly, the Paharganj neighbourhood where many backpackers stay. (and get a bit batty from the madness, dirt and chaos!)
Thank you, India Someday! Thank you, You Wander We Pay! You booked me a charming room in a quiet neighbourhood with several parks nearby. Plenty of shopping options, lots of food choices and a nearby Metro stop.
This is absolutely the right thing to do – to ease into Delhi life by staying in the newer, quieter areas. Shame on the many guidebooks for not advising this. There are plenty of accommodations for the full array of budgets, from dorm-style hostels to boutique and business hotels.
Some may shun the idea of staying in a more upscale neighbourhood, wanting to stay where the “action” and “real life” is, but recognizing my privilege as a traveller and writer I personally am keen on experiencing all a city has to offer. The new and the old, the wealthy and the poor, the restaurants and the street food, the clean air and the smog!
There are way too many travellers out there hating on Delhi, never having left the Paharganj neighbourhood to clear their heads. Experience the disparity and see the actual city they judge by just one area (more on the dynamics and distinctions of touring/travelling/living in another post soon!)
A calmer side of Delhi (Photo Credit – sach1tb, Flickr)
Day one
My first plan of the day was to meet a friend’s friend who does some awesome community organizing work in India. He met me at Bed and Chai (where I was staying), and after a 3-minute walk, we were sitting under the shade of beautiful trees in a local green park. (More on his important work in another entry!)
We made plans to connect again later in the evening at his office and then for dinner. This left me to experience Delhi on my own for much of the day. I had made a tentative, very loose plan to possibly connect for some afternoon touring with Julia, a fellow traveller originally from Poland who I met at Bed and Chai.
Limited communication abilities (she could only get in touch when she had wifi) left this very up in the air. I ventured along the quiet streets (and sidewalks!!) and came upon the Market area. I always picture an outdoor flea-market of sorts when I hear the word “market” but I’ve come to learn that it often just refers to an area filled with stores.
This one was totally upscale, filled with corporate chains. It was fun to check out the clothes and shopping habits of the locals, but I knew I wanted something more “Delhi” to eat and set out on an adventure out of the neighbourhood.
The Lotus Temple, New Delhi
Greener than you think
As I sat in my rickshaw, the message arrived from Julia that she would be near Bara Gumbad tomb in Lodi Gardens at around 3 pm. Park? Perfect! Exactly what was on my list to do. And so I got dropped off nearby and entered the fabulous green oasis. It’s a whole other story about the rickshaw negotiations.
A vast, gorgeous park, dotted with families, couples and individuals playing, reading and picnicking. It is also filled with remarkable 15th-century ruins including the impressive Bari Gumbad tomb and mosque. Tons of beautiful birds and butterflies!
Part of what I loved the most that was within the hour our loose, unconfirmed plan came together, reminding me of the pre-cellphone-era when life could still work out just fine. Julia and I spent the next few hours enjoying some Dahi Sev Puri snacks and a pleasurable, unchaotic Delhi.
Lodhi Garden
The Metro
Time to catch my first Metro ride! I descended the shiny, clean stairs into the polished, well-signed station. Immediately noticing it was way cleaner, easier to use and much less chaotic than our treasured NYC MTA subway system. Again, not the crazy Delhi I expected!
I easily purchased a “smart card” and headed for the “women only” section where I enjoyed the full-on air conditioning, the cleanliness and smooth ride. A full scene of street food nibbling and general hanging-out seemed to be taking place outside the Malviya Nagar station. A communal scene I’d love to see in the streets and public space of NYC.
While walking to his office, I finally saw my first cows of Delhi. This was one of the things that struck me the most. I hadn’t seen cows yet. No mounds of cow dung. No goats. None of the usual craziness I had been experiencing in all of the other cities I had seen (which I’ve also grown to be quite endeared by).
We spent some time at my friend’s office and then took the Metro towards India Gate where we enjoyed a long walk to the Canteen to eat a delicious Thali dinner, again passing endless amounts of open green space.
Metro leaving Karol Bagh station (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)
Old Delhi
Time to experience Old Delhi and the craziness! Julia and I ventured out the next morning to see some of the major sights and to meander the markets, nibble the street food and sense the chaos we’d heard so much about. We were NOT let down. It is quite intense–intoxicatingly so! And in a fabulous way if you’re not staying in a noisy hostel right in the middle of it all.
We loved the tranquillity of the Jama Masjid Mosque (especially the sound and view from atop the minaret), the delicious meal at Karim’s (the Mughlai restaurant that’s been around since 1913), and the market teeming with goats (perhaps because it was right before a Muslim holiday), and the spice market – dang, did we love the action and beauty of the spice market.
Getting from place to place in Old Delhi though can be maddening given the abundance of people, rickshaws, bicycles, peddlers’ carts and basically anything else you can imagine. I can definitely see why people lose their minds here.
After walking in the brutal heat for quite some time, we loved our cycle-rickshaw ride which took us through it all, at a perfect pace to catch a bit of a breeze and to feel the pulse of the craziness just enough to be entranced by it.
I shamelessly now crave more time in the “chaos” and can’t wait for my next Delhi visit to dive back in. I believe the key is being open-minded, not-rushed, well-hydrated, patient and curious about individual stories, the complex systems and general functioning of the city.
Many tourists pass through for a quick stressful visit and spread disdain for a city and its people they haven’t fully met.
Walking past the bustling crowd (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)
More Greenery and deer park
More green space! We enjoyed checking out Humayun’s Tomb, another set of impressive 16th-century ruins surrounded by plush gardens. Then we sampled some flavours from all around India at the renowned Delhi Haat. My first momos in India.
Even more green space! And perhaps my favourites – the adjacent Defavouriteseen Parks. With another loose plan to connect with Julia in the trendy Hauz Khas village artists enclave for dinner, I ventured out to Deer Park, frisbee in hand, to check out the sprawling green space with more ruins/tombs and with a well-stocked deer enclosure.
I had heard from a few folks that this was the “Central Park” of Delhi and it sure was. The post-work crowd was running, stretching, roller-skating, making music and enjoying the fresh air, cool ruins and pretty lake every which way you can imagine. My only regret was not arriving earlier.
The sun would soon set so I worked my way around the beautiful lake. I was struck by the awesome Lodi-era tombs and eye-catching ruins populated by a young, hip crowd. After a bit of a maze, I finally found my way up into the Haus Khaz village, magically connected with Julia again (neither of us had cell service, nor did we have a concrete plan).
We then meandered the quaint artist boutiques and enjoyed an absolutely delicious South Indian dinner. The most tasty sambhar imaginable – still dreaming about the perfect balance of tamarind and spice.
Sheesh Gumbad tomb in the Lodhi Gardens (Photo Credit – Mary W Shelley)
Overall
Delhi – you took me by surprise! I like you! And am ready to come back again. When I returned after my visit to Agra and Orchha, I stayed in Saket. It’s another quiet neighbourhood with tree-lined streets and lots of character. I also remember passing yet another great green space, nestled in between the windy highway exit ramps as my bus approached the (chaotic!) station.
Don’t get me wrong here, I’m not suggesting you are the ideal “green” or “socially just” city. Far from it. I can’t wait to write some pieces of trash and plastic. And I can’t wait to get riled when I explore more of East Delhi to get a better sense of the disparity and how people live.
From what I’ve seen in my limited experience as a traveller, you are certainly greener and more open than I’d have ever expected! Especially given the endless complaining I hear from fellow travellers and Indians from around the country.
I know you have quite a lot of people to manage and lots of unnecessary trash to deal with. But I must say you’re off to a decent start with some of your open park space and your clean, easy-to-use Metro system. I’m excited to explore more of you as a City and am sad for the many tourists who only see Paharganj and get scared away.
Thank you, Delhi, India Someday and You Wander We Pay!
”We will be visiting the Bike Temple on the way” said our driver.
“What temple?” I responded, shocked. I thought I had heard the temple. My faith in my ability to pay attention, even when I was sleepy was restored. It had been a long and comfortable drive since our last halt at the temple in Ranakpur, I could be forgiven for falling asleep. However, since the minute I’d heard of the ‘Bike Temple’ I wanted to know more.
Ranakpur Jain Temple (Photo Credit – Ninara)
Religious Temples
India in general is a very religious country; you will find a lot of pretty temples, mosques and churches. Some of the most beautiful sites in the country are somehow connected to religion. Majority of India’s population is Hindu, and Hindus believe in a lot of Gods (every deity being a form of the original holy triumvirate that Hinduism is based upon).
I knew of the Tirupathi Temple in Andhra Pradesh, where people (men) shave their heads (hair is considered as a sign of pride, shaving your head would mean giving up on pride for God). I’ve also heard of the rat temple (Jaipur and Bikaner), the monkey temple (Jaipur and Hampi). But, I would never have imagined that I’d be visiting a temple devoted to a bike; a Royal Enfield to be precise.
Monkey Temple (Photo Credit – Koen)
Highway Tales
I have always been intrigued by highways; the bike temple had promised to be what I had hoped for at the start of the journey but forgotten about in the process of travelling. I was going to visit a temple, which was in its own way a highway legend; a story that I would go back and share with my friends. The mention of the bike temple had done just that.
I learnt that the official name of the bike temple was Om Banna (the name of the bike’s owner). It is also known as Bullet Banna or Bike Banna (Banna is generally a term used to address a person of the male gender in Rajasthan). Our driver confirmed the story that the bike was owned by an Om Singh Rathore.
A bullet enthusiast, he was travelling from Bangdi; a small town near Sanderao in the Pali district to Chotil, when he met with an accident and rammed his bike into a tree. The impact killed him instantly and the bike fell into a ditch closeby.
The police took the motorbike to the police station the next day only to find out a few hours later that the bike had disappeared and somehow magically appeared at the spot of the accident. The police are reported to have tried various things to keep the bike from disappearing; like emptying the fuel from the petrol tank, locking the bike in chains, but only to find the bike again magically reappear at the accident spot.
Temple Om Banna Inde (Photo Credit – Jonathan Laroche)
The Bike Temple
The locals started to consider this a miracle and advised the police to leave the bike at the accident spot. They built a temple around the bike which is now popularly known as the “Bullet Baba’s temple”.
Almost all drivers who know of this story, make a stop at the shrine to pay their respect to the helpful spirit, it is believed that a driver who does not visit the temple is in for a dangerous journey.
Like all other temples in the country, a lot of people offer incense sticks, flowers, coconut and a red thread when they visit. There is one more thing I noticed the people offer here. Alcohol! Alcohol is considered a taboo in Hinduism, and India, in general, does not have a drinking culture. Even though there is no restriction on drinking, Alcohol and Religion don’t go hand in hand. It was odd to see people offer alcohol at the shrine.
This was one place I had not seen coming, I wasn’t even sure a place like this would even exist. But what an experience it was! For the rest of my journey to Jodhpur, I couldn’t stop thinking about the bike temple, and the Bike God that had watched over me the time I was on the highway.
Bullet Baba temple aka the famous Bike temple (Photo Credits – TripAdvisor)
This is one experience that I won’t be forgetting anytime soon. The beautiful smiles and contagious laughter of Neetu, Vishal and Sahil will feed my soul for a long time. For starters, I highly recommend checking out Orchha.
Off the typical path for most travellers (but fear not, there are plenty of souvenir shops and eager locals hankering for your business). Orchha has some pretty impressive sites, a serene nature preserve, and a local homestay program organized through Friends of Orchha that is well worth your time and support.
Huge thanks to India Someday for connecting me with the amazing experience of visiting a much less touristy (and nature-rich) area and staying with a fabulous family. Accordingly, if you’d like to have the similar experience, plan your trip with them.
Hangin’ with the Sadhus in Orchha, India (Photo Credit – Mark Robinson)
Getting There
I took the early train from New Delhi to Jhansi, the biggest transit hub close to Orchha. Then, played a long round of the usual rickshaw bargaining game. I had been told INR 150-200 would be appropriate. One driver latched on to me from the moment I stepped off the train, incessantly naming his price. He followed me around as I tried negotiating with others. Making it clear, through his whiny persistent voice, that he wouldn’t be giving up any time soon.
It was pretty annoying but, as someone who can be persistent myself, I was pretty impressed by his determination. Once I realized 200 was as low as I could get, I hopped in his yellow and green tuk-tuk and was blown away by his immediate transformation into a super-friendly, chilled out driver.
We enjoyed a fun and bumpy drive to Orchha, where I was met by Ashok of Friends of Orchha. He took me deeper into the Ganj village where I would be staying with a local Indian family. Always something fun about hopping on the back of a motorbike!
Hand-carved wooden printing blocks Orchha (Photo Credit – Arian Zwegers)
The Homestay
Ashok introduced me to the family and showed me the very clean stand-alone washroom and shower. My nicely decorated room was equipped with a large mosquito net, sitting area, and windows looking out onto the cows and garden. Much more simple and non-frilly than the plush places I’ve been staying at. It wasn’t quite as rustic as some other villages I’ve visited.
While I personally would be down with staying in a hut or somewhere more bare-bones and basic, with the right expectations. Accordingly, bring your own toilet paper and know you can purchase bottled water just down the street.
I think even those with high standards for their accommodation would feel comfortable here. In fact, as someone who loves a firm bed, I have to say that this was one of the best I’ve been on. And let me tell you, I’ve stayed in some pretty high-end places thanks to India Someday!
The homestay is simple yet effective
The Family
I was welcomed with a delicious cup of chai as I sat on the charpai (bed-cot made of wood and tightly-woven rope) in the open-air living room. Neetu, the 13-year-old daughter, was helping her grandmother prepare lunch. I joined them in the kitchen and offered to help but was granted the fun role of the spectator. I haven’t yet taken a cooking class here in India but this was the next best thing.
Neetu’s English is quite impressive and her enthusiasm, curiosity, and smile are delightful. I learned that her mother had passed away a bunch of years ago in an unfortunate accident. I shared that I too had lost my mom and as we spent more time together.
It was nice to hear her mention things she remembered about her mother. Like that she ate super slowly (like I do) and always said it was healthier to do so. The lunch was delicious. Almost all they eat is homegrown in their beautiful garden.
Two additional guests arrived and we all started getting to know each other as we helped Neetu prepare for her upcoming school exam on technology and computers. I’m glad I wasn’t the one having to take the test. I didn’t know half of what she was learning, including the origin of the word COMPUTER – Common Oriented Machine Particularly Used for Trade and Education Research.
Neetu and her grandmother preparing a meal as I sat as a spectator
Exploring the town during Ganesh Chaturthi
After some much-needed rest (getting to a 06:00 am train and then being in 100 degree weather is quite exhausting). The French guests and I hopped on the homestay’s pretty decrepit bicycles. We ventured down the dirt road through the small markets and down to the boulder-full river.
Despite having a bent wheel and a seat so low my knees nearly reached my face when I pedaled (no Allen wrench available for seat adjustments). I was stoked to be on wheels. It was the final day of Ganesh Chaturthi and we watched a steady stream of Ganesh statues be carried into the waters as a closing part of the 9-day celebration.
It seems like there’s always a festival or celebration going on in India. We enjoyed the town until the sunset behind the chhatris (cenotaphs to Orchha’s rulers). Watched the vultures flying above us while the locals swam celebrating Ganesh down below.
Ganesh statues being taken to the river on the last day of Ganesh Chaturthi
Games with the family
Chopping Okra (Bhindi) on the kitchen floor with the kids, I watched grandma, Khamla Basti. In her squatted position tend to the cooking at the floor-level stove. I found the kitchen to be immaculate (if you don’t count the flies) and incredibly organized.
The boys, ages 6 and 9, had the most contagious laughs and captivating smiles. As I write this, it’s quite powerful how much I miss them. It was fun watching Vishal give his dad a leg massage, holding onto a rope dangling from the ceiling, a creation of their dad’s the kids seemed quite proud of.
I had shown them the frisbee I brought with me and they were getting quite excited to give it a try. Accordingly, we left grandma to the cooking and ventured out to the area alongside my room, in front of the cows, where I couldn’t stop smiling as we all chuckled with each whirl of the disc. As a backpacker, you definitely don’t want to be carrying any extra weight – but I am having zero regrets for toting my frisbee! We had a blast.
The kids excited with the frisbee I bought them
The nature reserve
A good night’s rest was had by all and a delicious breakfast (Poha) was served to us before we hopped back on our rickety bikes towards the nature preserve. We rolled down the hills, through the town, and followed directions to the 2nd entrance of the preserve. This is where we were told the gate would be open and there was no ticket counter.
Let the adventure begin
Labouring on our decaying bikes, we passed dozens of monkeys (they never cease to capture my attention), some peacocks, and lots of birds. The dirt path led us to some scenic views of the boulder-full rivers. The highlight being an area where the waters were deep enough for us to have one of the most refreshing, beautiful swim. I guess my fear of crocodiles (as the sign near the park’s entrance warned) made me just a tad less relaxed! Not a soul in sight aside from the one white cow who seemed to have the inside scoop on the best place to while the day away.
If it wasn’t for running out of drinking water and wanting to tour the eye-catching sites in the afternoon, I could have stayed there for many more hours.
We pedaled back towards the preserve’s exit where we were met by 3 men including a stern-looking gun-toting officer requesting INR 150 from each of us. We paid up after a bit of skepticism and negotiating (turns out that is the standard tourist rate for the nature preserve) and as we began to cycle towards town.
A hiccup
I heard (and felt) that familiar POP sound of a blown tire. My decrepit bike had led me to a heavenly swimming hole but failed me for the rest of the day. A new tube would have cost INR 10 but the tire itself needed replacing and it seemed too pricey for them to pursue right away, yikes.
As I reflect, I realize I perhaps should have spread the bike love and some tourist $ to have replaced it for them!. I enjoyed a tasty lunch and some Wi-Fi in the air-conditioned Betwa Tarang rooftop restaurant (huge portions). Lounged there for the hottest couple of hours of the day. Thereafter, bidding farewell to the French guests who were soon catching the train to Delhi.
My travelling companion taking a nice dip in the cool water
Jehangir Mahal
My plan was to return to the homestay for a few hours to hang out with the kids. However, it was too far to walk in the blazing heat when I knew I wanted to visit the impressive Jehangir Mahal and other nearby sites in the afternoon. I found the medieval Islamic architecture to be amazing. I loved climbing the hidden staircases, peering out the arched windows and literally getting lost in the mazes. One entrance ticket (INR 250) covers most of the major sites.
When I did return to the homestay after sunset, we had a blast! We studied for Neetu’s test, played more frisbee. And, they put me to shame (even the 6 year old) at Carrom, the finger billiards game I’m loving here.
Orchha has some pretty impressive sites, a serene nature preserve and is well worth the stay
Feeling like one of the family
For dinner, I was invited to join the kids to eat at 08:30 pm. This is when Jodha Akbar, their favourite TV show, was on. I felt honoured! I also got a kick out of the show about a Muslim King and his Hindu Queen.
We stayed up late playing more frisbee and prepping for the computer exam. The kids would all have school the next morning and we joked about waking up at 04:00 am (Neetu had to leave by 06:30 am). This is so that we could do everything we wanted (more frisbee, more carrom, etc.). I planned to wake early to say goodbye to Neetu or she was to wake me – but sadly, we missed each other.
I so treasured our time together and started feeling attached, wanting to come back to visit again. The youngest little peanut was still asleep when I had to leave. Vishal was all suited up in his school uniform, in serious mode. However, before he left we got a few disc tosses in and said farewell.
Helping the kids with their studies
Overall
I already miss these kids, having thoroughly enjoyed living with them these past couple of days. I’m left wondering how it must be for them. Strangers in their homes on a regular basis. Some, they might not connect with at all and others they perhaps get attached to as well.
I must say though, that Friends of Orchha is doing some terrific work. The homestay is the primary source of income for this family. 6 other families participate as well and, as you can imagine, many others are interested.
The families receive the majority of the room charge and all of the meal fees. The remainder is used for loans taken to build the place. And, the organization also runs a youth centre (temporarily closed for construction). And they have also purchased toilets for other homes in the village. What a memorable experience.
Let’s start by saying that not all cars, drivers and roads are equal!
India Someday has offered me a broad spectrum of travel for getting from city to city in Rajasthan. For a few of my journeys, I’ve had the opportunity to sprawl out in the backseat of a car, taking in the street scenes around me. I’ve had mixed feelings about these car experiences. But, hands down, my recommendation is to mix it up – try getting around every which way you can in this country!
(Photo Credit – Kirsten)
my experience
At first, the idea of having a car to myself felt amazing. From reliable AC to bathroom breaks on my own schedule. I was stoked to sample another flavour of luxury travel I’m not quite used to as a backpacker. As with other aspects of higher-end style, I savoured in the indulgence and enjoyed feeling pampered. But, I also started feeling as if I was gazing out at Indian life from a bubble.
I would stare out the car window and see the beautiful wind-blown hair and saris of the glowing women sitting sideways on the back of motorbikes. Looking at them I would dream of travelling with the wind in my hair instead. I, of course, thought about pushbikes as well. How amazing it would be to properly gear up and cycle these long stretches.
At Chandelao outside of Jodhpur, where I was excited to hop on some wheels and cycle around the villages one evening. I sweat bullets and found myself working much harder than usual on pretty flat land. Needless to say, I chuckled at the thought of riding in the beating sun and toting my gear – and once again felt quite grateful for the private car!
For the car journeys between cities, I find myself going back and forth between enjoying the solitude and break from the noise – and longing to be fully immersed in it. It can feel a bit lonely or isolating, far removed from the commotion of the public transportation scenes and even other tourists who can be fun to speak with and learn from. Understanding the distances and limited public transportation between some cities, I can surely say that the car/driver combo makes a lot of sense.
Within cities, especially Jaipur, where things felt spread out, it was quite ideal to have a driver and I truly appreciated the demeanour of the sweet man who shared lots of information, was incredibly accommodating and struck up some decent conversation.
Even for group trips, a rental car can make sense and prices can be split between the group
The drivers
I must say that the car/driver experience is very much shaped by the driver himself (so far, I’ve only had men). My first one wasn’t my favourite (he was definitely not bad) it was just that I didn’t connect with him. But I absolutely trusted him and felt safe. However, he was not someone I would rate as the best driver on my journey. When I think of it now, all of my other drivers have been incredibly friendly, quite knowledgeable and good in English, which makes a lot of difference.
The roads themselves likely make a difference too! While trains are steady and smooth, I found some of the car rides to be incredibly bumpy and somewhat nausea-inducing. Some drivers handled the terrain far better than others – or perhaps their vehicles were better equipped.
If I knew about a site along the way, my drivers were always happy to stop for me. We enjoyed a quick break at a temple devoted to motorbikes which was a fun scene.
One of the best parts, after a late-night, very early morning or full day in the heat, is that the backseat of a car makes for an ideal bed, with no need to secure bags or worry about anything else. I should also add that all of my drivers have been incredibly punctual, never leaving me to wait anywhere. They also seem quite experienced at managing the INSANE traffic situation. You will find cows, trucks, buses, cars, bikes, people, goats, camels and more – all moving in every direction possible.
OVERALL
The scenes out the windows, however, never ceased to excite me. Whether we were passing lush green mountains, small villages or entering bustling cities, I loved watching life outside the car.
The roads were full of people walking, many carrying flags, all heading on a pilgrimage to a temple near Jaisalmer. Some barefoot and some piled high in rickshaws, they all looked thrilled with their journey, unbothered by the extreme heat. I loved seeing them.
Bottom line, getting around by car/driver can be incredibly helpful, time-saving and pleasantly chilled (this country is HOT!) As with any other situation, having realistic expectations and putting forth positive energy will help make a smooth ride.
Looking forward to more scenes from the road!
You can find very friendly and chatty drivers (Photo Credit – Fabio Campo)
Don’t worry, if you have any difficulties or need advice or assistance in planning your trip. India Someday is your answer to all questions. Just get in touch and they will be more than happy to help you plan your dream trip.
India Someday has exposed to me to an array of accommodations. All were quite clean, had interesting architectures and were filled with characters! I haven’t researched any of them beforehand, leaving myself open to surprise in each locale. From tastefully restored Havelis (private mansions) to hotels with exquisite rooftop views, I have had safe, comfortable and generally pleasant stays. I do wish the WIFI would work better though – getting these blogs up is sometimes a challenge! Some of my favourite accommodations have been the home-stays in Rajasthan.
The view of Mehrangarh Fort from Hem Guesthouse, Jodhpur
Staying at Castle Bera
Not quite sure what I envisioned for a home-stay. Perhaps something rustic like the small Hmong village I stayed at in Northern Vietnam. I certainly didn’t picture a beautiful white castle! One with a marble-floored suite, with antique wood furniture, photos of maharanas (kings), and a chieftain to dine with. When my driver dropped me off, I thought we had just entered another walled city – it was actually the grounds of Castle Bera!
At Castle Bera, Thakur Baljeet Singh greeted me and it took me a while to grasp the nature of the place. We climbed the stairs and entered one of the many doors and sat in his personal living room. It was filled with family photos, plush furniture and a well-lived-in feel. We chatted for a bit about our late afternoon leopard safari, what time I wanted lunch and which part of the castle I wanted to stay in.
I had used the washroom in a large guestroom just off the living room – and there were other guest rooms to choose from just off the courtyard. His staff (I wish I could remember his name) walked me around a bit, pointed out the dining area where lunch would be served and we agreed on the beautiful guest room I would stay in. The arched-entry hallway, sitting area with nature magazines, king sized bed, beautiful wooden antique furniture, changing room area, large bathroom, regal carpets and working fans and AC were all quite welcoming.
Dinner time!
Curious and hungry, I went to the dining room as scheduled. I was pleasantly surprised to see two place settings set up on the long dining table. I quite appreciated this aspect of the homestay experience. As I waited for the owner to join me, I enjoyed looking at the array of family shots, photos of royal visitors filling the walls. Leopard pictures were taken by some of the most renowned wildlife photographers who had stayed there.
It was a pleasant opportunity to get a better understanding of the rich history of the castle and his family. We also talked about contemporary life in India – our jobs, travels, work philosophies and more. I can’t lie, it was a bit awkward at first to make conversation and feel my way around the situation. But it was exciting to get my first flavour of a homestay in India – and to be in a place where the proprietor opens up his home and shares experiences. After my bike ride through the area villages (accompanied by his friendly staff), we embarked on our leopard safari. While we didn’t spot any leopards, it was a beautiful excursion. We returned to enjoy drinks, popcorn, and other snacks in the restorative garden. Another delicious Indian home-cooked meal followed.
Leopard safari organised by Castle Bera
HEM Guesthouse
My next homestay was at the HEM Guesthouse in Jodhpur. The driver arranged for me by India Someday dropped me off just outside the clock tower area. This was where I met one of the two exceptionally sweet brothers who carry on the legacy of their hospitable mother, Hem. Hem founded and ran the homestay before she passed away.
An adorable two-year-old boy who generously handed me a toy truck greeted me. Colourfully decorated wood furniture (their other business), bean bag style chairs and hot chai, I felt the family feel of this operation. The five-year-old daughter came home from school in her endearing little school dress, sharing with great enthusiasm that she hadn’t eaten her banana! Very sweet.
The Nepalese teen who works for Hem’s walked me up a couple of flights of stairs, where we passed the family’s kitchen and on the next floor, the clean and small (only relative to the other places I’ve stayed) room and finally, the beautiful rooftop view of the fort. En suite bathroom, a small balcony and fun artwork on the walls made it a pleasant place to catch up on some sleep and take advantage of the WIFI for writing.
Home-cooked food
I was eager to experience more delicious home-cooked food. However, I was a tad disappointed by the lunch and the very thin (runny) lassi I ordered. Similarly, perhaps I should have chosen Indian style for the morning breakfast. But I was getting used to the lavish western spreads at my first few accommodations. I was let down here as well, only to later learn that Hem is very popular for its Indian cuisine.
I think my disappointment in the food could likely be attributed to the calibre I had been receiving at my other places. It was probably a big dinner meal that could have wooed me here but I never gave it a try. Working hard on writing and resting, I could not connect much with this exceptionally warm and friendly family as I’d have liked. Most regretfully, I didn’t get to know the women of the house. Pregnant and radiant, they probably would have been amazing to speak with and learn from.
Hanging out with the family at HEM Guesthouse
Chandelao homestay
Chandelao, my other homestay, offered a glorious, relaxing, and restorative environment. The bright blue pool waters called my name loud and clear. I had a rich experience of personal connections. I entered the beautiful fort residence and again had to pinch myself that this is where I would be staying.
In the family for generations, the land was a gift for having fought for the Maharana centuries ago. I had the opportunity to visit the women’s empowerment and craft-making centre serving the local village. I also met three of the generations, each one warmer than the next. Enjoyed lunch with the mother/grandmother (it pains me to not recall first names) of Chandelao. Though she didn’t eat, we enjoyed our conversation, despite some language challenges! She was excited that her daughter and grandson would be joining for dinner.
It was a joy to meet them as well, to talk about everything from women’s issues to the family history and Bollywood film! We will likely get together in Jaipur to go see one. Veer, her grandson, had an infectious laugh. As I typed away with giant grasshoppers and other insects accosting me, he chatted on the phone with a friend he would connect me with in Jaisalmer, laughing hysterically for the duration of the call. Always a great sound!
Chandelao Homestay, Rajasthan
Why you should consider homestays in Rajasthan
I’ve found joy in personal connections, shared elaborate meals, interesting architecture, luscious pools and a sampling of real-life living. Figuring out the norms of each place presents its own unique challenge. But overall, I highly recommend breaking away from the backpacker hostels or 5-star conglomerates to give the homestays in Rajasthan a try.
Thank you, India Someday for making sure I have some truly memorable home-stay experiences!
Udaipur charmed me. And I was wooed. Because the breathtaking rooftop views of endless mountains in the distance; the sense of vibrancy surrounding the picturesque lakes; the constant buzz of activity; the chilled out meandering cows; the enchanting architecture; the striking colours of fruits, vegetables and women donned in exquisite saris; the maze of winding streets and even the outrageous traffic scenarios – I was enthralled by it all. Udaipur re-welcomed me to India and to this travel journey, in a whole new way. I was beginning to feel quite at home here.
My wonderfully generous host, Narayani
Udaipur
I was being picked up at 10:00 hrs for my next jaunt. Eager as I was for what lay ahead, I was sad to be moving on so quickly. I hadn’t even visited City Palace or biked around the lakes. Greeted by the driver who would take me to Krishna Ranch where I would be staying for one evening.
I hopped in the car (though sort of wish I arranged to bike instead) and enjoyed his detailed descriptions. This was an unexpected guided tour as we exited the bustling city life of Udaipur. And made our way through the serene countryside.
Those glorious mountains I gazed at from the rooftops were now right in front me, lush and green. The quiet streets were filled with women in striking colours. Each carrying a silver tray as she walked away from yet another religious celebration of sorts.
As we drove through the quiet hills, I saw a couple of high-end resorts and a newly constructed, pretty remarkable fort being built by a wealthy family who is apparently in the marble/stone industry. The street became narrower and was lined on both sides with flowers blossoming and a fluttering butterfly welcoming me to this alternate side of Udaipur.
All around Udaipur is a beautiful, serene countryside
Krishna Ranch
Having entered the grounds of the Krishna Ranch, I exited the car and was welcomed by a beautiful stable full of horses. Francine (originally from Holland) came to meet me and while I became intoxicated by the nature sounds and beautiful grounds, she showed me my cottage – a very clean, tastefully decorated room with a queen-size bed, seating area with chairs and table, a daybed alcove sitting section surrounded by windows and an outdoor seating area for taking in the unending splendour. The spacious modern bathroom looked pretty good too (still beyond grateful for my digestive health!)
Over a delicious cup of aromatic tea, we sat at the long wooden table in the main open-air structure and officially checked me into this picture-perfect farm setting where I would be the only guest during this slow travel season (they’re pretty much booked during other times.
I can’t imagine it being more beautiful – although I guess when the trees are filled with mangoes and other luscious fruits, it probably isn’t too bad here!) Dinesh, Francine’s horse-loving Indian husband, met me, and we all shared stories of travel, farming/gardening, and more. I enjoyed a peaceful rest before being served a delicious home-cooked meal using almost all Krishna or otherwise locally-grown, organic ingredients.
An inordinate amount of food was served, and I did my best to make a dent in it, dining to a chorus of chirping birds and a rich green scene in every direction. I was thrilled to see a beautiful shelf unit full of real, paper books. Don’t really care how much books weigh, I can’t imagine using an e-reader in this serene atmosphere. I meandered the grounds for a bit, saying hello to the camel, horses, goats, and chicken,s and then rested and read a bit more.
Krishna Ranch Farm
Horse riding
At 15:30 hrs, I met up with Dinesh, donned my helmet, and climbed upon a beautiful horse to begin an excursion around the countryside. I haven’t had too many horseback riding experiences, so it took us a bit of time to become comfortable with one another. Although once we did, the sound of clicking horse steps became truly meditative.
We rode on dirt paths, passing through farmland and small villages, children of all ages greeting me with big hellos and goodbyes. Dinesh was a wonderful guide and pointed out interesting things along the way, from types of trees to methods of farming to the antelopes and peacocks roaming the fields.
We returned to the ranch, and we all, including the horses, got ready to relax and have some dinner. A special pile of sand was set up for the horses to each have a quick roll in before settling in for the evening.
I chilled out at my villa, taking in the array of nature sounds and the diminishing light. Animals I couldn’t begin to identify howled and cooed in the distance. I learned later that I was probably hearing monkeys. The night sky now dark, I couldn’t bear to turn on my lights and was beyond ecstatic for this tranquility.
The ranch offers you horses to ride
In the evening
I returned to the beautiful wooden table where I was served yet another gorgeous home-cooked meal prepared by Narayani. I was delighted to have her join me. While I ate, I loved hearing her stories about her life as a woman in Udaipur. My thali-style meal included mutter panner, dal, chapatti (with flour made right here), halwa (absolutely amazing), and her home-made pickled sauces. Also, they offered me a steady flow of filtered water.
Thrilled to not have Wi-Fi, I retreated to my villa for some reading, writing, and full mind/body restoration. I had to pinch myself a couple of times to ensure this was all for real. I continued counting my blessings for somehow landing in this magical world of wonder.
Inviting as my villa’s bed was, I longed for a tent to savour in the fresh night breeze and twinkling stars above. I figured it out – I opened all of the windows and set up my mosquito net in the day bed area, barely separated from the steady sounds of nature and the mountain views I would wake to see as a new day dawned. And so it did.
Sitting down for our evening dinner
Breakfast
A breakfast spread to dream of – fresh-made yoghurt, brilliant red pomegranate, pieces of papaya, toast with more of that delicious butter, eggs, chai, bananas, apples and of course some filtered water.
I spent a bit more time with Francine & Dinesh and asked them about the intense sounds I heard last night, loud rustling and two bursts of mysterious animal screams. Did a chicken just get killed? Did it wake from a bad nightmare?
They suggested it was likely a peacock killed by some type of wildcat or possibly a leopard. The farm property abuts the wildlife preserve, and many have been spotted. Startling as it was, it sure beats the sound of cop cars in NYC.
Just a few minutes before my ride would pick me up. Intrigued and animated for what I knew would be another wondrous chapter, I couldn’t help but mourn the end of my time at the beautiful Krishna Ranch. I took many deep breaths and inhaled the healing tranquility I vowed to carry with me. I am also sending sweet little doses of it to you all.
It seems like every day is some type of holiday or festival here in India. From Jain holidays to Krishna celebrations, festivities abound. Many Jain folks fast for 8 days before this.
Jagdish Temple, Janmashtami
Just when I thought I had a full Janmashtami experience at the community celebration in Ahmedabad, I immediately got a sense that the Jagdish Temple festivities in Udaipur would be quite a wonder. And I sure was right. There were colourfully dressed men, women, and children. With amplified music, the clay pot dangling up above the public square, shiny streamers, and lights. It was a buzz of festival-like energy that was constant.
I was told that after 06:00 PM, the festivities would really get started. They would end by around 08:15 PM or whenever the pyramid of boys grew tall enough to knock the clay pot of yoghurt down.
Jagdish Temple, Janmashtami
I made my way over at around 7:00/7:30 and joined the dense crowd of spectators. I wish I could have somehow made it to one of the many balconies overflowing with onlookers. Instead, I found myself a spot where the visibility wasn’t bad and there was some room for breathing. That changed pretty quickly! I rarely go deep into tightly crowded spaces unless I feel I have a very clear path to exit. But this seemed like a pretty special opportunity, and I decided to stick it out.
I was able to hold my camera up high and snap some good shots. I’d been warned about unwanted gropes. Accordingly, I had purposely placed myself near women to avoid any unwanted situation.
The crowds roared with enthusiasm! The catchy music played loudly, and there was lots of call and response. It was similar to the community celebration in the Ahmedabad slum.
The crowd in the lanes of Udaipur leading up to Jagdish Temple during Janmashtami
The Finale!
The boys made pyramids that grew taller and taller and the crowd got tighter and tighter. It was still nowhere near the clay pot. It was exhilarating to join in the excitement. Yet still, anxiety-provoking to be in the increasingly crowded audience. Not to mention the sweat literally dripping from my body.
I would think it was as cramped as humanly possible. And then dozens of more people would push their way towards me from both sides. I loved the experience though was horrified at the same time. I finally retreated, recognizing how much longer it would take. Plus, I had exciting dinner plans with a friend, of my New York friend, Aditi. I was so grateful to her for the connections she made for me.
I finally pushed and squeezed my way out of the crowds (not an easy feat), and enjoyed another vantage point from the distance.
A human pyramid being made to break the pot of yoghurt that is at the top
I worked my way through the maze of crooked streets and headed to Jaiwana Haveli to meet Aditi’s friend Yash. His family has been living there for generations. His family also runs a beautiful hotel with stunning views overlooking the lake and the palace. We met up on the roof and enjoyed a refreshing Kingfisher, some decent conversation and yet another scrumptious meal, the highlight of which was the Chilli Paneer.
Ramblinarium – Jaiwana Haveli, Udaipur
I walked myself back to Madri Haveli through the windy maze. Along the way, I was excited for a much-needed shower and rinsing of my sweat-filled clothes. I learned later that it took the boys 40 tries to make a pyramid tall enough to reach the clay pot. So glad I left when I did!
Super thankful for the A/C in my room, I slumbered well and woke to yet another delicious breakfast! This time enjoyed it with Rajesh and Shankar Singh Charan, manager of the Madri Haveli. I went to check out Rajesh’s impressive gallery and was picked up there for my next adventure – the Krishna Ranch.
Thank you, India Someday, for putting me up like royalty in Udaipur and for these first couple of cities. The air-conditioned bus (with plush reclining chairs) from Ahmedabad to Udaipur dropped me on the outskirts of town. Post this, I proudly negotiated an INR 50 rickshaw ride to the Old City.
Beautiful sunset in Udaipur (Royalty in Udaipur!)
The Madri Haveli
My room (or shall I say rooms) at the Madri Haveli, in the master suite, made me feel like a queen. With multiple seating areas to choose from, nooks and crannies with beautifully shaped windows looking out onto the charming old city. Also, a separate regal bedroom, and an eye-catching stone bathroom (larger than my NYC bedroom), replete with a giant tub, two sinks and a great supply of adorable Colgate toothpaste and other toiletries.
I made my way to the rooftop and was awe-struck by the stunning views of the lush mountains, beautiful lakes and the enchanting city. I knew I’d be more than content if I never left the grounds and treated myself to some laptop time in what became one of the world’s prettiest offices.
Madri Haveli Udaipur
Boat ride around Pichola Lake
I meandered the busy colourful crooked streets and worked my way towards the quintessential boat ride around Pichola Lake. I entered at Lal Ghat (where all tourists were Indian) and took the INR 250 ride around the beautiful waters, staring out onto City Palace and Jagmandir and Jagniwas Islands, quickly gaining a sense of the regal life of India.
Drawn to the green park space nearby, I wandered the windy paths, checked out some sculptures and spotted my first monkey hanging out.
Breakfast on the rooftop – Madri Haveli (one of the many royalty in Udaipur)
Jagdish Temple
Working my way back to the haveli, I stopped to visit the Jagdish Temple. All dressed up with lights, streamers and statues, and packed with folks celebrating Janmashtami; Lord Krishna’s birthday.
I slipped off my shoes and joined the packed line of exquisitely dressed women in colourful saris to enter the temple, built in 1651. A clay pot dangling high above the open public square, I grew excited for the community celebration that would happen the following eve.
For now, it was teeming of people, lots of music, and in the evening, a midnight procession marking the birth of Krishna.
Pilgrims walking up to the temple in Udaipur
The food
I was thrilled to meet the Udaipur artist, Rajesh Soni. In addition to photography, he does beautiful work hand-colouring, in fine detail. Also, he does others’ digital pictures, many of which were on display in the Madri Haveli Gallery.
We drove to the new part of Udaipur, passing the famous Fateh Sagar Lake (or FS as they call it here). This is where droves of locals go to hang out in the evening. You would find them sitting on the water’s edge and eating at the plentiful food stands across the road.
He brought me to a typical Indian thali place where unlimited vegetarian dishes are served by eager waiters. I’m so loving the yoghurts and delicious aromatic flavours of each meal more than the next in this country!
Our drive back was insane. His small car is in competition with the motorbikes, bicycles, rickshaws, people, cows, goats, and who knows what else. The streets are windy, super narrow, and barely have room for one car to go by.
He had an impeccable sense of the car size. And he magically finessed his way through the tightest of squeezes, at impressively high speeds.
I retreated to my royal room and woke to a rooftop breakfast fit for a king. Fresh fruit, black tea, cheese omelette, banana crepes, and four pieces of toast with an assortment of jams and that delicious Indian butter.
I enjoyed learning that the Amul brand of butter I’ve been loving started out as a women’s cooperative. As it goes, some women started a milk society collecting milk from everyone’s house. This eventually got developed into a large, established company.
Breakfast with a view at Madri Haveli
Ayurvedic Massage
I spent the day having my first Ayurvedic massage, meandering the Udaipur streets, and lap-topping atop my glorious shaded rooftop. Struggling to find the place listed in Lonely Planet and overwhelmed by the plethora of choices, I decided to go with a place in the Lal Ghat area. This is where I was sold on having a massage provided by a woman.
Loving a good massage and having experienced some of the best throughout my travels, but never an Indian Ayurvedic treatment, I was curious. Throughout my hour of being gently massaged, I was curious if this woman’s work was indeed a good sampling of Ayurvedic massage. Because if so, I was going to exchange my rupees for bahts and head to Thailand!
Thankfully, the guy who ran this questionable operation wanted a genuine debrief. He has also offered earlier to return my money if I wasn’t satisfied. Dissatisfied though I was, I didn’t intend to ask for a refund. We spoke at length about Ayurvedic massage, and I much more enjoyed the next half hour of treatment he gave me.
The moral of the story is to make sure you go to a reputable place. Especially if having a woman is important for you. It became clear to me that this woman had no idea what she was doing.
Overall, it was a restful day in charming, well-touristed Udaipur, the City of Lakes. I loved hearing the sounds of the Krishna celebrations and staring out at those beautiful hills.
I made it to India! A lifelong dream finally realized, thanks to India Someday and the amazing contest called #YouWanderWePay, which basically has my name on it! A social worker from New York City with a deep passion for all things local and an insatiable zest for experiencing life around our globe, I devoured my delicious Indian food aboard my Jet Airways flight and eagerly awaited the adventure of a lifetime.
After a smooth landing, I donned my well-travelled backpack and exited the air-conditioned terminal. Experienced my first dose of the hot, astoundingly humid air, immediately feeling my curls frizz. I connected with Harsh, one of the India Someday founders, and his exceptionally warm and friendly wife, Arpita. They pampered me with good water, my first late-night veggie roti, and a fun drive orienting me to the layout and design of Bombay. Driving alongside the sea, scores of people lined the walls overlooking the water. I found the streets mostly empty, but the size, sound,s and shapes of the various vehicles (and animals on the street) quickly reminded me that I had almost magically entered this mind-stirring land.
Harsh dropped me off at my first accommodation, the Travellers Inn – a clean, basic, well-located hotel in the Fort neighbourhood. Not having any perspective on accommodations, I was pleased with the smooth late-night check-in and the helpful staff. My air-conditioned room had a full-size bed, en-suite bathroom (with showerhead basically right above the toilet) and cable television. This provided the perfect background (who doesn’t love an Indian cooking show!). while I settled in and used their speedy Wi-Fi network to connect with family and friends back home. I confirmed my safe arrival and shared my excitement for some epic travel.
My bed was adequately comfy. I enjoyed a solid night of sleep and loved the breakfast of eggs, fruit, deliciously buttered toast and Indian tea. It was delivered to my room in the morning (included in the room price). Getting ready to venture out into the streets of Bombay/Mumbai, I had hoped to run into some fellow backpackers. Besides a couple of computers and a book-swap shelf, there didn’t seem to be much common area for socializing. The very sweet owner, however, brought me to the roof to show me the great work in progress for a new community space. He even sought my ideas for what would make it best.
Keeping aside other accommodations in Mumbai to compare to, Travellers Inn is safe, well-located, clean and perfect for my fellow budget travellers. The ambience might not yet be its strong point but it does seem like it’s on its way. The helpful staff, cable TV, strong AC and good Wi-Fi surely enhanced my first experiences of India.
Comfy room at Travellers Inn, Mumbai
Mumbai
Huge thanks to the India Someday team! The “clean” food vendors whose flavors I loved (and I haven’t yet gotten sick from), to the cows and goats on the streets! The beautiful people and amazing banyan trees, Harsh’s family for their wonderful Indian hospitality and to the fun characters like my friend Aditi’s friend Joseph. What a fabulous welcome to India you have offered. Next up…train to Ahmedabad. Can’t wait for more!
#YouWanderWePay
Eating thali with Harsh from India Someday
Let India Someday handle it and plan your best trip.
