Harsh Sonawala is the co founder of India Someday and since his childhood, he has travelled to different parts of India and the world. The thrill of travelling and sharing his experiences with others was the reason behind starting India Someday. Other than the office where he is conjuring up marketing ideas, he can be found scuba diving in the Andamans or relaxing in a chalet in the Himalayas.
Another blog entry was written by Nicky Millar, for more about who she is, and about her awesome travel/volunteering adventure, check her blog.
Kolkata, what can I say… WOW! Honestly, I am not sure if I was naive in my expectations or if the recent read of the City of Joy was too fresh in my mind, but this city is not at all what I anticipated!
Pictures from Nicky’s trip to Kolkata
Exploring Kolkata
Arriving from Varanasi, I went straight to Kolkata Backpackers Homestay, one of my favourite places to stay in India! Rajarshi not only provides the yummiest breakfast on the block but goes out of his way to help you enjoy and explore this amazing city. The house is a couple of metro stops away from the infamous Sudder Street, and for me, that was a bonus. It forces you to explore the city beyond the 500m backpacker radius and enables you to experience Indian hospitality at its best!
During the weekend and in the evenings I managed to get a feel for a city I began to love! The people are so friendly and helpful, the food is sensational and the colours are breathtaking. Overall, it is truly an enjoyable place and you cannot help but get caught up in the excitement.
Local Cabs in Kolkata (Photo Credit – Paul Hamilton)
Best places to visit in Kolkata
The main attractions are the Indian Museum, Sudder Street and New Market. All are natural magnets to locals and tourists alike, and you can really go wild with the shopping. Cheap, cheap, cheap! No other market place will you experience such intensity as India as you walk through the aisles.
My second most loved outing was visiting the flower market just under the Howrah Bridge. If you have a chance visit it at the crack of dawn. The sights and smells are a splendid way to start the day, and the banter among workers is rather catchy. I got to experience the morning ritual of those who lived nearby. Unfortunately, I did not manage to see the traditional wrestlers that come down to the ghats, but the experience was still surreal.
One of the best places to visit in Kolkata is Park Street, the fancy part of town! Here is a strip of all the shops, restaurants and bars you could ever want. All is only a mere hop, skip and a jump away from Sudder Street. I was fortunate enough to be in this city for Christmas. While I did not have the willpower to tackle the crowds here on the 25th, I frequented many times prior to the big day and was so warmed by the festive spirit. The entire street was lit up and filled up with Christmas cheer, treats and delicious foods. Kolkata really celebrates every holiday and boy does it deliver!
My favourite attraction has to be to Victoria Memorial Park! If you knew me you would feel that this is quite uncharacteristic for me to visit. However, if I could recommend one thing it is to get yourself a picnic, pay the INR 4 to enter the grounds and absorb the atmosphere. I coincidently went on a weekend and it was absolutely fabulous to see happy families basking in the sun, playing badminton and mastering the skill of selfies. It is a serene place a million miles from the Indian bustle (in reality not even 500m away). The area provided a wonderful glimpse into the inspiring family‐centric attitude of this country.
Victoria Memorial, Kolkata
My final word of advice is to let yourself get lost! Seriously, this is a city that you have to feel and if there was ever a place to lose your way then this would be it. The city is easy to locate where you are but if you lose your way locals are friendly and always willing to help. If worst comes to worst there are also a gazillion quaint yellow taxis ready to whisk you off to wherever your heart desires!
A blog written by Nicky Millar on where is best to visit in Kerala. She gives tips for female solo travel in Kerala from a first-hand perspective.
Kerala is arguably one of the best places to visit in India. From rolling tea plantations, sweeping game reserves to mystical backwaters. Not to mention the food, people, and climate – this place has everything!
Boat in the backwaters of Kerala
Kumily and Periyar National Park, Kerala
I started my Kerala adventure in Kumily because mudslides prevented me from getting to Munnar, which is the place to go see tea plantations. Although the weather was a little grim at the end of the monsoon period, I felt it to be a worthwhile trip.
I decided to get an auto-rickshaw tour guide. This was the first time I had done this sort of thing. But given the distance between the sites, it was well worth it. I ventured from a coffee factory to an ayurvedic spice farm, a tea plantation and finally, a view of the town that I hear is breathtaking.
The only downside was not being able to visit the Periyar Game Reserve due to extortionist prices if one is travelling alone. One of my tips for solo female travel in Kerala is that the safaris, although expensive.
If you don’t have any friends to fill that vehicle with, well then I am sorry for you. To be fair, I believe that you could go on the boat, which I am sure is fab, but I highly doubt whether wildlife spotting would be the greatest of priorities on a ferry full of families.
A deer
Visiting the Backwaters in Kerala
My advice for solo female travel in Kerala is that you are able to do just as much as you had hoped for. Visiting the backwaters is definitely a must-see adventure. After only one night (enough if you are not doing the parks), I got the bus to Kottayam and then the local ferry to Alleppey.
Although seemingly long-winded, the trip is well worth your time as you meander through the backwaters. This is at not even a tenth of the price of tourist cruises, and you have the added bonus of getting a sneak preview into the lives of the people who live along these canals.
Being the only foreigner on board there was a fabulous atmosphere and feeling of authenticity that you cannot buy for any amount of money!
My lack of friends was glaringly obvious once again when I arrived in Alleppey. It was here that I found that the houseboats are rented out individually at unattainable prices for a single-backpacker budget. Having spied them from my ferry ride, I have no doubt that it would have been a special experience.
If you are able to hire out a houseboat then I recommend staying for more than one night. This will allow you to get away from the throngs of other boats moored up alongside you. I decided to move on after one night. I got an easy bus to Ernakulam then caught a ferry to Fort Kochi.
Backwaters in Alleppey
Exploring and eating in Fort Kochi
What a wonderful city, super quaint with an eclectic mix of tourist shops/restaurants and local flavour. Though it is hungry work, I highly advise you to explore the old Jewish quarters by foot and boy was I rewarded that night! I ate possibly my single most favourite meal to date here.
Near the Chinese fishing nets, there is a fish market where you can pick out which of the day’s fresh catch tickles your fancy. I chose the squid, snapper and a dash of tiger prawns (I did share with a fellow solo traveller, don’t worry).
Once you have sussed this, a little man magically appears to guide you to his restaurant. This is where he cooks the seafood to perfection – grill/fry/spicy/herby you name it! All for a nice INR 210, I could get used to that!
Another activity I decided to do was a proper backwater tour. There are companies that conveniently source a whole bunch of singles/small groups and take them together! There are easier options if you chose to do solo female travel in Kerala. Although I ummed and ahhed for a long while about going, I am so glad I did!
While the ferry from Kottayam was great, it is unable to give you a sense of the smaller, more jungle-like backwaters. Therefore a full day trip, with lunch included, was certainly time well spent!
Overall, while Kerala has some of the most spectacular scenery on offer, it may be worthwhile doing some research into prices if you are doing it solo or perhaps looking into tour groups.
A great tip for women travelling in Kerala is to just be flexible and willing to adjust. You can get just as much out of it as you desire.
– Gregor, Sarah and family from Canada are travelling with their children aged 12, 10 and 5 for a year across Europe and Asia. They used our help to plan parts of their India trip and are guests authors for a series of blogs on travelling in India with children.
“Keep the kids happy, everybody is happy.” These wise words were spoken by my mother-in-law. Travelling in India from early January to mid-March, we experienced both the sweet fruits of our observance of this wisdom and the rotten fruit of forgetting it. It is hot, busy and very different from home (Canada). You need to take time to just relax, unwind, digest (both exotic foods and all the impressions) and escape. Our tendency is to want to fill our days with meaningful cultural visits, to maximize the time we have. We want to see this exotic new land before we head back home where everything is so familiar. With children, this does not work!
Children of the same age always inspire each other
Our journey with the kids
As cool as it could be to climb to the top of a peak in Sri Lanka with all of the other pilgrims to witness sunrise, these will be the kids crying and acting out and miserable for the rest of the day. So many beautiful temples, so little time… After two or three, the intricacies of when they were built and how Buddha is holding his fingers is lost on the small people. We dropped our kids in at the deep end, arriving in India in Mumbai and heading to Aurangabad to visit the Ajanta and Ellora caves. They were little troopers, but we quickly saw that we needed to leave them in the room (our eldest daughter is 12 going on 17!) while we went out to buy some fresh fruit or to do a little shopping close by.
Backwater canoe trip in Kerala with children
the kids’ favourite place
Nature and small towns are also a key to happiness. When we arrived in Hampi, the kids were jubilant: “This is our favourite place in India!” Life slowed down, there was much less pressure to buy things (I received daily offers from one man to have my ears cleaned and he even had testimonials sorted by country of origin). It was possible to rent scooters and enjoy getting around by ourselves. Any beach we visited offered the same thing in addition to the breeze that invariably comes with being right on the ocean.
Cooking class in Varkala with kids
So, I would say that India is an amazing place to visit, but with kids, you must pace yourself. One temple, not four! Some city time but not much! Nature, fresh air and some beach time is an important way to break up some of the heavier experiences. It gives us all time to digest what we have seen and done. When the kids have time to recuperate and chill-out time, they seem to be able to just take everything in stride. A large part of the enjoyment on our trip has been watching the kids go with the flow!
India is always an adventure, more so when travelling with children
More blogs from Gregor and Sarah on travelling India with children
A good friend of India Someday, Aditya Lalla shares his stay and trekking experience in text and pictures.
Walking across McLeodganj takes all of twenty minutes. Built up around a one-way ring road (Temple Road going downhill, Jogiwara Road going back up) and a handful of side roads branching out from the main square at the Northern tip of the circuit, McLeodganj is a fantastic starting point for a number of great treks.
McLeodganj is a fantastic starting point for several great treks
Trekking in McLeodganj, Dharmshala
Heading due north out of the main square, through the local khao gully (lit. food lane) and bazaar, you will suddenly find yourself walking on a quiet paved road used only by the locals and the occasional cattle.
Known as the Dal Lake-McLeodganj road, it has almost no gradient and is a pleasant, scenic route approximately 2.5 kms long. Once at the Dal Lake, one can either go on a bit higher to Naddi Village or visit the Tibetan Children’s Village.
Bhagsu Nag is a small village about 1.5 kms to the east of McLeodganj. Known for its Shiv Temple and spectacular views, it is also the starting point for a short but steep hike going up to Bhagsu Nag waterfall.
There is a guardrail, the path is paved, and there are steps for the steeper sections. This is a popular spot for most tourists visiting McLeodganj, so it’s not unusual to see people of all age groups making their way up and down the route.
Bhagsu Falls, Dharamshala
Triund Hill
The most famous trek from McLeodganj is the trek to Triund Hill. You can either start from near the government primary school at Dharamkot, or from the German Bakery at Bhagsu Nag. The route up from Bhagsu Nag is a little shorter, but a lot steeper, and gets too slippery to attempt safely when it’s raining. Both routes meet at a temple called the Gallu Devi Temple which is where the trek really starts.
Near the temple are a couple of cafes. These are the first in a set of three groups of cafes that you will come across on the way up to Triund Hill, and mark the end of the first leg of the journey. Each leg gets progressively steeper and slightly harder to climb, but the path is always well marked, and nowhere does the trek get more than moderately difficult.
Getting to the top takes between 2 & 6 hours, depending on the number of stops made and how quickly you walk, but the view is more than worth the hike. The journey up does give you occasional glimpses of what to expect, but the flat meadow on top of Triund gives you a spectacular panoramic view of the Dhauladhar Range on one side and the plains on the other.
Longer journeys are also possible, walking a 3 or more days circuit looping around to the snow line or onwards through sections of the Dauladhars, but these will require signing up with an experienced group of guides and carrying around the required food and survival gear.
The most famous trek from McLeodganj is the trek to Triund Hill
Where to stay in McLeodganj
8 Auspicious Him View
It’s simple, it’s reasonably priced, and it’s got a view of the Himalayas. A family run guest house on Jogiwara road with surprisingly large rooms. The 8 Auspicious Him View is a quiet and comfortable place to stay. Decor is exclusively pine wood, and the food is vegetarian (with eggs). The rooms are approximately INR 3,000 per night and the included breakfast is simple but excellent.
Accommodation with wonderful views of the mountains
Where to eat in McLeodganj
8 Auspicious Him View
Eat breakfast if you’re staying here. They serve traditional Tibetan breakfast food, and it is delicious. Especially the Him View Sandwich.
The Crazy Crepe Pancake (aka The Brew Club Book Club)
It’s a cosy little cafe which serves incredible vegan crepes and waffles. You can choose your batter as well as the toppings (cinnamon oat flour crepe with apricot sauce? Done!). The portions are (really) big too (Nutella crepe with extra Nutella? Done, and done!).
They encourage you to sit around, read, and sip your brew of choice while slowly contemplating which particular crepe will be your indulgence of the day.
Shiva Cafe
Hidden away above the Bhagsu Nag waterfall, Shiva cafe is a great place to relax and while away some time. The path up is partly overgrown in places and not very well marked, but the astonishing view is worth the extra effort. You can choose to sit either inside or outdoors (weather permitting) while snacking on their offerings.
Jimmy’s Pizzeria in McLeodganj (Photo Credit – Ankur Gulati)
What to carry/wear
Sensible shoes and a sweater or a waterproof jacket (in case it rains) should cover most short treks. Water and snacks are a good idea, but not essential since you’re never too far from a shop or café. In case of overnight/multi-day treks – listen to what your guides suggest. The weather can be unpredictable, and the mountains unforgiving.
Prepare for trekking (Photo Credit – Aleksandr Zykov)
What else to do in Mcleodganj
McLeodganj is famous for being the residence in exile of Tibet’s spiritual leaders. The Dalai Lama resides here, and the temple complex built around his house is the reason most people visit McLeodganj in the first place.
Visitors are freely allowed to walk around the entire complex (except for his holiness’ actual residence). You can watch the monks pray, or learn about Tibetan history, or just sit in some of the spectacular gardens.
Do remember, this is also a seat of political power, and there is a blanket ban on all electronics carried by visitors. You will also find armed security guards cordoning off certain areas.
The Tibetan Children’s Village is a non-profit integrated educational community for destitute Tibetan children in exile, and for the hundreds of those escaping from Tibet every year. The headquarters of the institute are found next to the Dal Lake. It now has established branches in India extending from Ladakh in the North to Bylakuppe in South. They have over 16,726 children under its care.
There are also a number of monasteries, stupas, museums, and libraries scattered in and around McLeodganj. These come with scriptures and histories carried by the people of Tibet to India.
Workshop at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts in McLeodganj (Photo Credit – ptwo)
Travelling to India with children: Experiences of a Canadian family with kids aged 12, 10 and 5
When we told our friends that we were going to take our kids to India for two and a half months, some of the responses were “What! Are you crazy!” “Aren’t you worried about them getting sick?” “Do you really think it is a safe place to go with kids????” “Why India, why don’t you just stay in Europe?” “Wow, you are brave, but do you think it is responsible to take kids to India, they really don’t have the same immune system.”
Well, I am happy to say that taking your kids to India is a great idea. I feel like it is a privilege and a real education for kids. There is so much beauty, history, culture, and religion in India, not to mention, really lovely people and wonderful food. Depending on how you travel, you may not be out of your comfort zone at all, or even better, you may be out of your comfort zone and you will see how resilient and adaptable your children are.
Travelling by Tuk Tuk from Hospet to Hampi
Initial experiences of big-city Mumbai
When we arrived in Mumbai from snowy Berlin, we jumped in with both feet. We got into a taxi at 6 in the morning to take us to our hotel in Colaba, just over an hour away. You would have thought that it was mid-morning anywhere else with all the action. There were loads of people out and about, traffic and honking had started, there were people sleeping on the streets and all the vendors were just getting set up to start their long day of selling.
After a bit of a nap, we went out for a walk to explore a bit. There was lots going on for us to adjust to; the smells, the heat, the noise, the traffic, the number of people on the streets, the street people begging and following us. After a little while, we went back inside, debriefing the experience with the children. They found it busy! Funnily enough, on the next outing, only three hours later, this was the new normal and the kids got to see how people live in big cities – and they had no problems navigating this norm from then on.
School trip we met at Fort Daulatabad, who wanted a photo with us
Places in India we visited with our children
We have visited loads of places in India, from the caves to Hampi, to the beaches of Goa and down through Kerala. All of the places have their own set of challenges but most importantly, they all have their unique beauty. In Mumbai, we saw how resilient people are and how they are all trying to make a living. We saw so much honesty and pride that we found it inspiring.
At the caves of Ellora and Ajanta, we marvelled at a civilization’s rich history and incredible talent, ingenuity and perseverance to create something of such remarkable size and beauty. In Hampi, the landscape is so beautiful and other-worldly that you wonder how places like this exist. Of course, there is the fun of the beaches, playing in the waves and visiting spice plantations. There are mountains and tea plantations, it goes on and on. In India, there is lots of everything and you will never have enough time to explore it all.
Scenic view of the boulders at Hampi (Photo Credit – Pixabay)
What the children learned
Yes, there is poverty and yes, many places are dirty. For us, these are excellent opportunities to show our children how so much of the world lives. In Canada, you would never see so much garbage strewn all over the roads, thrown over the hillsides, in the rivers, etc., so this does several things on our family trip. It makes us appreciate the wealth and infrastructure in our own country (and perhaps feel less resentful about paying taxes), it makes us grateful for our own good fortune, and it allows us to understand what challenges developing countries are facing and accept that all progress is on a continuum.
We see the interconnectedness of the world and how our actions at home affect other countries. The learning and understanding of effects of pollution can be seen in some parts of India and not in others. But essentially it is all learning and understanding through experience.
We have walked the streets at night everywhere and have felt less danger than I would at home. When we have accidentally overpaid, people have pointed out the mistake and returned our change. We have found kindness and generosity everywhere we have been.
Food
In six weeks, no one has been sick (well, our youngest had a bit of heatstroke but that had more to do with chatting parents than any fault of India!). We have eaten in local restaurants and have had no issues at all with sickness. I actually thought that I might trim down a bit after a Christmas in Germany, but no luck! The food in India is so good that you will eat well. Of course in some of the more touristy places, your kids may be eating Nutella pancakes, pizzas and pasta but in many places, there were no other options than curry – and they managed fine. We always asked the waiters for less spice and between the rice and sauce and naan bread, the kids were never hungry. Add a tasty lassi to their meal and they were happy. For the parents, we love the food!
Indian Thali – a selection of little dishes of curry with bread and rice (Photo Credit – leliebloem)
Final Verdict on travelling to India with children
So I suppose I would close with two comments. One is that the only danger we have found in India are falling coconuts – seriously, I have had two coconuts fall within twenty feet of me. Now that is a large miss, but if one did drop on my head, I don’t think I would fare too well. In many places, they have nets under them, in most places they don’t. So I won’t sit under a coconut tree, but that is a pretty easy danger to avoid and that is the only real danger I look out for here.
And finally, I would say that “No, I am not crazy for taking my kids to India, but rather I am giving them the gift of a lifetime.” I am opening their eyes, showing them the world, breaking down stereotypes and giving them an experience that they will never forget.” I would recommend it to anyone.
Crowds are interested in Talia, and she is overwhelmed
Sarah and her family from Canada are travelling with their children aged 12, 10 and 5 for a year across Europe and Asia. They used our help to plan parts of their India trip and are guest authors of a series of blogs on travelling in India with children. This one talks about if you seek fame go to India.
Of course, from Canada, we knew about Bollywood and we had seen some or parts of Bollywood movies. We knew the Bollywood scene was in Mumbai. What we didn’t know is that we could BE in a Bollywood movie. We actually were asked not once, but twice, if we wanted to come to the film set as extras. It seemed that the only requirement was that we were Caucasian. That’s when we say, if you are seeking fame go to India.
The first time we were asked was to star in a film with the actor Khan and the second time, we were asked to sit in a café (onset) in a Pepsi commercial. Now regrettably, for my 12-year-old daughter, we had to turn down the offers both times. We had travel plans and we weren’t prepared to change them.
The money earned wasn’t much, 500 rupees ($10), with lunch and meals provided, as well as transportation. We would have to be on set for about 12 hours. With younger children (in addition to our 12 year old), this wouldn’t be easy to negotiate. The experience, however, would have been pretty cool–if only once.
Feeling like we had just missed out on our three seconds of fame, we headed off to the Ellora and Ajanta Caves. My eldest daughter doubted that the caves could possibly be as exciting as taking part in a Bollywood film. We’re not sure what the verdict is but certainly while being at the caves, we felt as though we were famous.
When we walked in, we saw signs about not bothering people by asking them to take photos. Initially, I assumed this was directed at us, the Foreigners, but it turned out to be directed at the Indian tourists. They are very eager to have their photos taken with foreigners.
As we had children with us, and the youngest being a 5-year-old blond girl, we walked around the caves like movie stars followed by the paparazzi.
We were asked probably over 100 times if we could have photos taken of us. The biggest target was our youngest daughter. She was asked non-stop. In fact, she started to hide behind us. When we said yes to one person, others would run over and start snapping as well.
I had my first taste of what it must feel like to be famous. So as we walked around the caves, I channelled my inner Angelina Jolie, stood up straight and smiled, many, many times over.
The experience was more funny than bothersome. Needless to say by the end of the day we had strategies to lessen the attention. The caves at Ellora and Ajanta are absolutely mind-blowing. We would highly recommend the trip.
What people were able to create two thousand years ago is really beyond comprehension. We didn’t get too baffled, however, by this incredible and miraculous work of ingenuity because we always had another photoshoot around the corner.
School trip we met at Fort Daulatabad who wanted a photo with us
Rajasthan and Goa both lie on the western coast of India. However, travelling between these two states is not very easy and can take a considerable amount of time.
by train
Probably not the best way to get from Rajasthan to Goa or vice versa as the distances are considerably longer and the trains extremely slow and tend to run late. The trains start from Jodhpur and Jaipur in Rajasthan and go to Madgaon. But if you don’t mind long train rides and a few delays, you can pick some of the following trains.
Most of the trains that connect Goa to Rajasthan originate from further North, some originate from Delhi, and others from more northern cities in Rajasthan like Ajmer and Bikaner. What you could do is travel to Mumbai by flight/bus/train and try catching a train that starts from Mumbai as chances of it getting delayed is less than the other trains.
Some trains reach Goa in the middle of the night between 02:00-03:00 Hrs. While Goa is generally safe, it is better to avoid these trains as the railway stations can be deserted at that hour and check-in at hotels is of course not the easiest.
Goa has a number of railway stations. If you are staying in North Goa then either Pernem or Thivim should be your boarding station. For South Goa, Madgaon or Canacona should be your boarding station.
Similarly, Rajasthan has a number of railway stations as well. It really depends on which city is your last destination, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Ajmer/Pushkar or Bikaner.
Udaipur and Jaisalmer in Rajasthan do not have direct train connections to Goa. You will have to change trains in Mumbai.
The train journey is between 25-30 hours, and it’s advisable to book your train tickets well in advance. Ideally, as soon as bookings for your travel date open up, i.e. 60 days prior to the date of travel.
The train journey from Rajasthan to Goa has extremely diverse views from deserts to lush green hills and waterfalls in the monsoons. It is also the cheapest way to travel.
Enjoying the view from Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur
by bus
There are no buses that run between Goa and Rajasthan. It just takes too long and is too far and well, just not possible. Hiring a car and driver to drive you between Goa and Rajasthan will be extremely difficult to arrange, it would be a very long and expensive journey even if you found a driver that agreed to drive you.
Colourful beach hut accommodation in Goa
by flight
Udaipur, Jaipur and Jodhpur are the three cities in Rajasthan, from where you’d have a flight options to Goa, but all of them have connecting flights via Delhi/Mumbai. The flights are slightly expensive and have layovers but are still the most efficient mode of travel.
This one-stop flight tends to be more expensive as compared to the other direct flights that you might take in India. It’s advisable to book in advance as the fares for one-stop flights can really soar closer to travel dates.
If you are in Udaipur you could drive up to Ahmedabad and then fly directly to Goa.
Note: Do take the same airline flight for both sectors, as then you are not liable to have any errors in case of delays in the first flight.
Our suggestion
We at India Someday would really recommend that you plan to break your stay in Rajasthan and Goa with a few days in Mumbai. This is a little biased as we are based on Mumbai, but it is a fun city to visit. So if you do have time then a stopover in Mumbai, else take a flight and save yourself the travel time by train.
Bizarrely, despite the large backpacker contingency in India, the idea of hostels is still relatively new. In fact, I am hard-pressed to think of any dormitory-type options when I was travelling in the South! In saying that though the places we did stay at were truly exceptional and I think that it is a concept that will grow exponentially in the coming years. Consider hostel hopping through Rajasthan for a cheap, but also unique, experience.
Another blog entry written by Nicky Millar, for more about who she is, and about her awesome travel/volunteering adventure check her blog.
Rajasthani welcome (Photo Credit – TripAdvisor)
Hostel hopping through Rajasthan on a budget
Travelling on a budget, me and two other girls opted to stay in the cheapest options available. We stayed in mixed/female only large dormitories and throughout felt completely safe. Never once did I worry about my possessions as there were always secure lockers available!
The biggest “problem” was the limited hot water. Geysers tended to be small and you had to constantly turn the water on and off to wait for it to heat up again. Other than that I would, without hesitation, stay at these places again if I was given the choice!
Places can be cheaper in a group as you can get a room for INR 600 and split the cost. For singular travel, you pay about INR 450 to INR 550 on average for a bunk. But for me the atmosphere of communal areas and being able to meet like-minded travellers is priceless!
Bright and colourful rooftop of Jaipur – The Hosteller
The best Rajasthan hostels we stayed at
While hostel hopping through Rajasthan, we were lucky enough to stay at, in my opinion, the best Rajasthan hostels on offer. Therefore, I will try giving a brief summary of each and their specific standout features.
Perhaps the smallest of the three, it was a great introduction to the hostel scene! All the facilities were completely up to scratch. Moreover, the common room, right slap bang as you walked in, was particularly inviting.
It did not take much to feel like you were at home and between socialising with other travellers and needing to use their main computer for personal reasons. Further, the staff were always super helpful and accommodating! This I would definitely include as one of the best Rajasthan hostels to choose from.
Side note: if you are unable/unwilling to go to this hostel I would recommend Yogi’s Guest House. Although we did not stay there, the lady was exceptionally helpful. She provided us with some amazing advice for planning our camel safari. Having only spent a couple of hours there, I can vouch for an amazing rooftop restaurant and a prime location!
Opening a mere 3 weeks before our arrival, the staff were truly outstanding! The ensuite rooms are comfortable and the breakfasts sublime. Everyone went out of their way to make our stay the most enjoyable it could be! This welcoming establishment made hostel hopping through Rajasthan truly stress-free.
From planning 3 separate itineraries for us (we were all parting ways at some point and needed to make individual travel arrangements) to organising an auto to pick us from the bus stand/show us around the city and socialising with us in the evenings – they were a top-notch team!
Though not a hostel in Rajasthan, Varanasi is not a site you should miss if passing through North India.
This was by far the most organised hostel we stayed at in North India. We were given a daily itinerary of tours (at a small additional cost) and nightly events from boat cruises to Bollywood nights. This is easily the best place to meet people!
The common areas are vast, funky and always busy. However, at the same time, they also maintaining a sense of calm and a lovely homey feel! Breakfast and evening chai tea are included and make for great debrief/planning sessions with fellow travellers.
What’s more, there is an “intern program” where foreigners work here for a couple of hours a day and receive freeboard. This means that there are travellers who have been in Varanasi for a while and have some fabulous tips and tricks to share! In addition, this is something that one can consider doing.
Finding your peace place at Stops Varanasi
Conclusion: Our take on hostel hopping through Rajasthan
Overall, I genuinely enjoyed all of these places and would not hesitate to recommend them as the best Rajasthan hostels. The only drawback that I can think of is that they tend to be further out of the city than other guest houses. This is generally common for hostels. So on average, you will have to spend about INR 100 to get an auto into the centre, which is easy enough but bear this in mind.
While we travelled independently the help provided by India Someday was invaluable. From booking our Varanasi to Agra train ticket, putting us on a comfortable bus from Mumbai to Udaipur, to recommending this awesome new hostel in Jaipur. If you are pressed for time and wish to have a security net while travelling in India we can highly recommend them. They are unlike the traditional travel agencies you will find.
Find out some of the coolest common areas of these beautiful hostels
Bus and Train are a great and inexpensive way to travel in India. We asked one of our friends and client to write about her experience travelling through Rajasthan, Agra, and Varanasi. This blog entry is written by Nicky Millar (for more about who she is, and about her awesome travel/volunteering adventure check out her blog).
3 girls, 12 days and 6 stops –
I was on a whirlwind trip! Deciding that we were on a tight budget with money, as well as time, we took on the railways and roads for the duration of this trip, and the train and bus travel was an experience all on its own!
Hanging out in Jaisalmer
Mumbai to Udaipur by Bus
Starting from Mumbai, we booked a 14-hour semi-sleeper busthrough India Someday to get to our first stop, Udaipur. In hindsight, probably not the best way to start. That bus raised our expectations far too high! From soft leather seats to receiving blankets when it got too chilly, the journey, although long, was a dream (notwithstanding the snoring man behind me of course). The bus exceeded our expectations about travel in India.
As with all bus trips, there were food and toilet breaks which were invariably in the middle of nowhere (think road + random building + toilet + an ever-present snack shop). We tended to have our own nibbles with us (as the stops were a bit inconvenient and we got hungry), but generally, the food on offer was good.
Be prepared for basics as English menus are a true enigma! If hungry, stick to the simple dal fry and rice and you will never go wrong. As for the restrooms and toilets, although stinky, they were definitely usable.
The Majestic City Palace of Udaipur sits on the banks of Lake Pichola
Udaipur to Jodhpur by bus
Next was a bus to Jodhpur. This trip from Udaipur was by far the worst (even though it appeared to be a “private company”). We were plonked right in the back and bounced around for nearly 10 hours due to delay. The delay was because of its own insistence to stop at every junction.
It did so to get more passengers, despite already being double-booked for most seats! It is with this journey in mind that I will divulge the greatest lesson learned when it comes to bus travel:
Try to book in advance so as to have the luxury of more options, and in the same vein, and
2. Always ask for a seat in the front. The ever-blasting horn may be louder, but your butt will thank you immensely.
Let’s just say that the bus’ suspension is not its strongest selling point. The best option though is to travel here by car. Even though it may be a little expensive but after the long and tiring journey, it’s absolutely worth it!! (check out this blog on car travel)
You can visit this beautiful Jain Temple in Ranakpur on way to Jodhpur
Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by bus
It is hard to make a comprehensive conclusion about bus travel, because cliché as it is, every single trip is unique! No kidding, a public bus (the RSRTC, Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation) can be better than the private or at least equally amusing.
Plus a night bus may not always save you that precious day of sightseeing. Also, not very preferable as you’d have to catch up on sleep when you arrive exhausted at the destination! For example, in a completely unprecedented event, our bus from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer was EARLY – until that point I was convinced it was a completely foreign concept in India!
Overall though, I consider bus travel a relatively fun experience. And in most places, there are many multiple companies with different departure times.
Incredible Golden City of India – Jaisalmer
Jaipur to Agra by train
Now when it comes to trains, I would greatly urge you to do at least one when in India. I mean you have to. It is quite simply the quintessential Indian experience! Our first one, Jaipur to Agra, was a simple afternoon trip, which we took in Sleeper class.
It was a short and fun journey, spiced up by a few interesting people that you will inevitably come across while travelling.
Great fort to explore, lovely red stone and distant views of the Taj Mahal – Red Fort, Agra
Agra to Varanasi by train
This was our second train journey and heading from Agra to Varanasi. Since this was a long journey we upgraded to an AC 3-tier (read up on different train classes.) In classic backpacker style, we booked an 11 pm train to be able to enjoy the whole day in Agra and then still get a half-day in Varanasi (ETA 12 pm the next day). Here is a blog on a two-week travel route which includes Varanasi and Rajasthan.
However, our departure was delayed by 5 hours and our arrival by nearly 9 hours. So do bear in mind that at times, especially in winter, long-distance journeys can be heavily delayed.
India showed us that planning a trip here by ourselves is not always easy and using local knowledge would have saved us a lot of time! Trying to maintain “inner zen”, we waited first in the ticket office’s private rooms and when that closed at midnight we shifted to the First Class waiting rooms next to the platform (despite a sleeper class ticket, we just paid Rs 100 and it was all good).
Luckily, given that it is the ultimate tourist route, there were heaps of foreigners which made for good company! To compare, the sleeper and Ac three-tier, the Ac three-tier has the exact same layout (open plan, triple bunks) with AC. But, at a greater cost, the atmosphere is a lot calmer and the greatest bonus – sheets, and blankets are included!
Things to keep in mind and in check
Again, it is impossible to definitively say what your journey will be like on a train. But the law of averages says that you will be delayed at some point in your trip! If one compares to bus trips, your choice of food is far greater, as you have chai and thali wallas constantly coming through the carriages.
Also, the ability to jump off at any of the stops and grab a bite (the train tends to wait at least 10 minutes at each station, and it starts again so slowly that it is easy to jump back on), meaning that you have an array of goods to choose from!
Toilets on the train were the same in the sleeper and 3 AC (but the latter did have a western-style one on offer too). Train travel in India can be frustrating. Just be patient and amuse yourselves with the humourous element of your situation.
Trains are filled with interesting people, so interacting with them can pass time quite easily (Photo Credit – Rignam Wangkhang)
Views on safety for women while travelling by bus and train
Finally, as three females, it is worthy to mention our feeling of safetythroughout the trip. In terms of baggage, I was more than comfortable to have my big bag put in the holdall in the belly of the bus (obviously having my important goods with me). Whereas on the train, I just had it on the bed.
I can honestly say that I never felt threatened at any time when it came to personal safety. However, be prepared for constant gawking! The best advice I can give is always to try and get an “upper” berth in trains. It will guarantee you some personal space and provide some distance between the thoroughfare of the aisles!
For the most part, booking is relatively easy. If you have a credit card and know what you want! The best way to go is to have a travel agency do it for you from the onset. Naturally, you will have to weigh up the importance of flexibility vs. affordability.
If time is a constraining factor then sometimes thinking ahead of the most efficient route could be beneficial! Finally, when it comes to which class to book, although seemingly overwhelming, it is actually quite easy and depends on your budget/(dis)comfort tolerance.
Here are a few tips for all you solo female travellers apprehensive about traveling to India alone.
Bus:
Seater/semi-sleeper/sleeper is the most common categories and essentially refers to how far back the seats recline (with the last being a full on bed). The decision of AC/Non-AC tends to depend on when and where you are going. The North in winter is freezing. Thus, the idea of an AC is horrific. The heat is OK during overnight travel as you can just pop a window open.
Train:
General/sleeper/AC 3-tier/AC 2-tier/AC 1-tier generally have comfort levels directly proportionate to pricing. I would urge you not to go below sleeper, as the general class has no seat allocation (so you can only imagine the chaos). While I am 100% content with sleeper, sometimes circumstances require a bit more comfort than it is able to offer! For more about different train classes read here!
While we travelled independently the help provided by India Someday was invaluable. Booking our Varanasi to Agra train ticket, putting us on a comfortable bus from Mumbai to Udaipur, recommending an awesome new hostel in Jaipur. We highly recommend them if you are pressed for time and wish to have a security net while travelling in India! They are unlike the traditional travel agencies you’d find.
If you’ve been thinking that it’s high time the process of getting a visa to India became smoother, you’ve been thinking right! The Indian government since June 2014, has been aggressively putting in place an eVisa system for inbound tourists.
And the good news is, we’re almost there – you’ll most likely be getting your visa online for your next visit to India. It will reduce paperwork and make the whole process much easier for travellers. No more enduring long lines at embassies, convoluted verification and documentation process and other hassles!
Getting a visa for India
E-Visa or Visa on Arrival for India? What is the difference?
The eVisa format being implemented resembles a Visa on arrival but is not exactly a Visa on arrival. Because the applicant needs to submit their Indian Visa forms online. Once submitted, pay the necessary fees online and they would be informed if the Visa is granted or not. You do not have to courier your passport or visit an Indian Embassy or consulate.
Once your Visa is granted you will be notified online. Using this, you can board your plane to India and the Visa would be stamped on your arrival in India. While similar, it is still not exactly a Visa on arrival and it would be a lot less cumbersome than couriering your passports or having to line up outside an Indian Embassy/consulate.
India Visa (Photo Credits)
Which countries can avail of e-visa for India?
Overall, so far the following countries are eligible, the most predominant ones being the United States of America, the United Kingdom, Germany, France, Australia, and New Zealand.
The remaining list is Albania, Andorra, Angola, Anguilla, Antigua & Barbuda, Argentina, Armenia, Aruba, Austria, Azerbaijan, Bahamas, Barbados, Belgium, Belize, Bolivia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Botswana, Brazil, Brunei, Bulgaria, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon Union Republic, Canada, Cape Verde, Cayman Island, Chile, China, China- SAR Hongkong, China- SAR Macau, Colombia, Comoros, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Cote d’lvoire, Croatia, Cuba, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Djibouti, Dominica, Dominican Republic, East Timor, Ecuador, El Salvador, Eritrea, Estonia, Fiji, Finland, Gabon, Gambia, Georgia, Ghana, Greece, Grenada, Guatemala, Guinea, Guyana, Haiti, Honduras, Hungary, Iceland, Indonesia, Iran, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kiribati, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Latvia, Lesotho, Liberia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg.
Yes, we agree that it is a long list. It further continues with Madagascar, Malawi, Malaysia, Mali, Malta, Marshall Islands, Mauritius, Mexico, Micronesia, Moldova, Monaco, Mongolia, Montenegro, Montserrat, Mozambique, Myanmar, Namibia, Nauru, Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Niger Republic, Niue Island, Norway, Oman, Palau, Palestine, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Republic of Korea, Republic of Macedonia, Romania, Russia, Rwanda, Saint Christopher and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Senegal, Serbia, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Suriname, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Thailand, Tonga, Trinidad & Tobago, Turks & Caicos Island, Tuvalu, UAE, Uganda, Ukraine, Uruguay, USA, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Vatican City-Holy See, Venezuela, Vietnam, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
SAARC nations and Pakistan, Iraq, Somalia, Sudan, Nigeria and Afghanistan which are on ‘prior reference” list are the ones that’ll have tough luck as far as eVisas are concerned. There’s some good news for Afghan nationals though, India may open its doors for them to stay for up to 2 years on humanitarian grounds, subject to checks and balances to avoid misuse.
Visa Rejected (Photo Credit – Mohamed Hassan)
A brief overview of the e-visa process for India
With Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) foreign travellers will be able to apply (through a website) for and receive an online confirmation of their eVisa within 3-5 working days. The facility will be available for a 30 day period from your date of arrival in India onwards.
The software for the eVisa system is ready. This will be in operation at 9 international airports. These are Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Bengaluru, Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram. A dedicated website for the purpose of getting an eVisa is already functional. However, you will have to pay an additional fee to use the service. Visit https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/ to see if you can use the facility as yet.
Eligibility
PURPOSE: The Indian Government considers only four possible intentions as innocent. These are recreation and sightseeing, casual visits with friends and family, short duration medical treatment and casual business visits. Our apologies on not making a category for self-discovery.
PASSPORT: The original document should be valid for another six months from arrival and have at least two blank pages to fill up with Indian stamps. However, Pakistani Passport holders or people of Pakistani origin are not provided with this convenience. They must apply directly at India Mission for regular passports. Diplomatic/Official Passport holders, those endorsed on Parent’s/Spouse’s Passport and International Travel Document Holders will also have to make do with the regular method of obtaining visas.
Application requirements
PASSPORT: Submit a scanned copy of your passport’s information page online here. However, make sure that it’s signed and valid for 6 months beyond your stay in India. It’s always good to have a full of blank visa pages for all your fun travel plans. Don’t forget to carry it with you on your trip!
PHOTO: If you have a digital copy of a passport-sized photo, upload it to the website. If not, you could also use a scanned photo of a regular passport photo instead.
PROOF OF DEPARTURE: A confirmed round trip ticket always helps. As they know you’re not trying to sneak in and start a new life.
PLEASE NOTE
For applications to be eligible you must take care of 2 conditions. Firstly, submission no later than 4 days prior to departure, and no earlier than 34 days before the date of arrival. You might want to consider a traditional visa if you’re the kind that likes their itinerary done and dusted well in advance.
You can get a maximum of 2 Electronic Travel Authorizations (ETA) in a year. From which one would provide a maximum stay of 30 days.
You can pick-up a visa on arrival at Bangalore, Chennai, Cochin, Delhi, Goa, Hyderabad, Kolkata, Mumbai, and Trivandrum ONLY.
Carry a copy of ETA at the time of your travel (obviously).
Your visa is usually processed and issued in 3 business days (if approved).
Visa Stamp
A word to the wise
The ease in the process of obtaining a visa will surely boost tourism. Accordingly, India’s inbound tourism is expected to double in the next 2 years. In other words, if you aren’t a fan of too many tourists, this new development may be a bit disappointing.
But if you plan and book in advance, choose your destinations smartly with good advice, you’re likely to have a great time. So do let us know if you are planning a trip to India, and we would be happy to help!
Happy bureaucratizing to you!
Let India Someday handle it and plan your best trip.
