Trekking in McLeodganj Dharamshala

Posted on February 23, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

A good friend of India Someday, Aditya Lalla shares his stay and trekking experience in text and pictures.

Walking across McLeodganj takes all of twenty minutes. Built up around a one-way ring road (Temple Road going downhill, Jogiwara Road going back up) and a handful of side roads branching out from the main square at the Northern tip of the circuit, McLeodganj is a fantastic starting point for a number of great treks.

McLeodganj is a fantastic starting point for several great treks

Trekking in McLeodganj, Dharmshala

Heading due north out of the main square, through the local khao gully (lit. food lane) and bazaar, you will suddenly find yourself walking on a quiet paved road used only by the locals and the occasional cattle.

Known as the Dal Lake-McLeodganj road, it has almost no gradient and is a pleasant, scenic route approximately 2.5 kms long. Once at the Dal Lake, one can either go on a bit higher to Naddi Village or visit the Tibetan Children’s Village.

Bhagsu Nag is a small village about 1.5 kms to the east of McLeodganj. Known for its Shiv Temple and spectacular views, it is also the starting point for a short but steep hike going up to Bhagsu Nag waterfall.

There is a guardrail, the path is paved, and there are steps for the steeper sections. This is a popular spot for most tourists visiting McLeodganj, so it’s not unusual to see people of all age groups making their way up and down the route.

Bhagsu Falls, Dharamshala

Triund Hill

The most famous trek from McLeodganj is the trek to Triund Hill. You can either start from near the government primary school at Dharamkot, or from the German Bakery at Bhagsu Nag. The route up from Bhagsu Nag is a little shorter, but a lot steeper, and gets too slippery to attempt safely when it’s raining. Both routes meet at a temple called the Gallu Devi Temple which is where the trek really starts.

Near the temple are a couple of cafes. These are the first in a set of three groups of cafes that you will come across on the way up to Triund Hill, and mark the end of the first leg of the journey. Each leg gets progressively steeper and slightly harder to climb, but the path is always well marked, and nowhere does the trek get more than moderately difficult.

Getting to the top takes between 2 & 6 hours, depending on the number of stops made and how quickly you walk, but the view is more than worth the hike. The journey up does give you occasional glimpses of what to expect, but the flat meadow on top of Triund gives you a spectacular panoramic view of the Dhauladhar Range on one side and the plains on the other.

Longer journeys are also possible, walking a 3 or more days circuit looping around to the snow line or onwards through sections of the Dauladhars, but these will require signing up with an experienced group of guides and carrying around the required food and survival gear.

The most famous trek from McLeodganj is the trek to Triund Hill

Where to stay in McLeodganj

8 Auspicious Him View

It’s simple, it’s reasonably priced, and it’s got a view of the Himalayas. A family run guest house on Jogiwara road with surprisingly large rooms. The 8 Auspicious Him View is a quiet and comfortable place to stay. Decor is exclusively pine wood, and the food is vegetarian (with eggs). The rooms are approximately INR 3,000 per night and the included breakfast is simple but excellent.

Accommodation with wonderful views of the mountains

Where to eat in McLeodganj

8 Auspicious Him View

Eat breakfast if you’re staying here. They serve traditional Tibetan breakfast food, and it is delicious. Especially the Him View Sandwich.

The Crazy Crepe Pancake (aka The Brew Club Book Club)

It’s a cosy little cafe which serves incredible vegan crepes and waffles. You can choose your batter as well as the toppings (cinnamon oat flour crepe with apricot sauce? Done!). The portions are (really) big too (Nutella crepe with extra Nutella? Done, and done!).

They encourage you to sit around, read, and sip your brew of choice while slowly contemplating which particular crepe will be your indulgence of the day.

Shiva Cafe

Hidden away above the Bhagsu Nag waterfall, Shiva cafe is a great place to relax and while away some time. The path up is partly overgrown in places and not very well marked, but the astonishing view is worth the extra effort. You can choose to sit either inside or outdoors (weather permitting) while snacking on their offerings.

Jimmy’s Pizzeria in McLeodganj (Photo Credit – Ankur Gulati)

What to carry/wear

Sensible shoes and a sweater or a waterproof jacket (in case it rains) should cover most short treks. Water and snacks are a good idea, but not essential since you’re never too far from a shop or café. In case of overnight/multi-day treks – listen to what your guides suggest. The weather can be unpredictable, and the mountains unforgiving.

Prepare for trekking (Photo Credit – Aleksandr Zykov)

What else to do in Mcleodganj

McLeodganj is famous for being the residence in exile of Tibet’s spiritual leaders. The Dalai Lama resides here, and the temple complex built around his house is the reason most people visit McLeodganj in the first place.

Visitors are freely allowed to walk around the entire complex (except for his holiness’ actual residence). You can watch the monks pray, or learn about Tibetan history, or just sit in some of the spectacular gardens.

Do remember, this is also a seat of political power, and there is a blanket ban on all electronics carried by visitors. You will also find armed security guards cordoning off certain areas.

The Tibetan Children’s Village is a non-profit integrated educational community for destitute Tibetan children in exile, and for the hundreds of those escaping from Tibet every year. The headquarters of the institute are found next to the Dal Lake. It now has established branches in India extending from Ladakh in the North to Bylakuppe in South. They have over 16,726 children under its care.

There are also a number of monasteries, stupas, museums, and libraries scattered in and around McLeodganj. These come with scriptures and histories carried by the people of Tibet to India.

Workshop at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts in McLeodganj (Photo Credit – ptwo)

Let us know if you’d like more information or if you’d like to plan a trip with us, and we’d be more than happy to help.

Getting from Rajasthan to Goa

Posted on December 26, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Often, while travelling in India, travellers look at stopping at a beach destination like Goa after exploring the cultural diversity of Rajasthan.

Rajasthan and Goa both lie on the western coast of India. However, travelling between these two states is not very easy and can take a considerable amount of time.

by train

Probably not the best way to get from Rajasthan to Goa or vice versa as the distances are considerably longer and the trains extremely slow and tend to run late. The trains start from Jodhpur and Jaipur in Rajasthan and go to Madgaon. But if you don’t mind long train rides and a few delays, you can pick some of the following trains.

Most of the trains that connect Goa to Rajasthan originate from further North, some originate from Delhi, and others from more northern cities in Rajasthan like Ajmer and Bikaner. What you could do is travel to Mumbai by flight/bus/train and try catching a train that starts from Mumbai as chances of it getting delayed is less than the other trains.
Some trains reach Goa in the middle of the night between 02:00-03:00 Hrs. While Goa is generally safe, it is better to avoid these trains as the railway stations can be deserted at that hour and check-in at hotels is of course not the easiest.
Goa has a number of railway stations. If you are staying in North Goa then either Pernem or Thivim should be your boarding station. For South Goa, Madgaon or Canacona should be your boarding station.
Similarly, Rajasthan has a number of railway stations as well. It really depends on which city is your last destination, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Ajmer/Pushkar or Bikaner.
Udaipur and Jaisalmer in Rajasthan do not have direct train connections to Goa. You will have to change trains in Mumbai.
The train journey is between 25-30 hours, and it’s advisable to book your train tickets well in advance. Ideally, as soon as bookings for your travel date open up, i.e. 60 days prior to the date of travel.
The train journey from Rajasthan to Goa has extremely diverse views from deserts to lush green hills and waterfalls in the monsoons. It is also the cheapest way to travel.

Enjoying the view from Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur

by bus

There are no buses that run between Goa and Rajasthan. It just takes too long and is too far and well, just not possible. Hiring a car and driver to drive you between Goa and Rajasthan will be extremely difficult to arrange, it would be a very long and expensive journey even if you found a driver that agreed to drive you.

Colourful beach hut accommodation in Goa

by flight

Udaipur, Jaipur and Jodhpur are the three cities in Rajasthan, from where you’d have a flight options to Goa, but all of them have connecting flights via Delhi/Mumbai. The flights are slightly expensive and have layovers but are still the most efficient mode of travel.

This one-stop flight tends to be more expensive as compared to the other direct flights that you might take in India. It’s advisable to book in advance as the fares for one-stop flights can really soar closer to travel dates.

If you are in Udaipur you could drive up to Ahmedabad and then fly directly to Goa.

Note: Do take the same airline flight for both sectors, as then you are not liable to have any errors in case of delays in the first flight.

Our suggestion

We at India Someday would really recommend that you plan to break your stay in Rajasthan and Goa with a few days in Mumbai. This is a little biased as we are based on Mumbai, but it is a fun city to visit. So if you do have time then a stopover in Mumbai, else take a flight and save yourself the travel time by train.

Planning on visiting Kerala after Goa? Here’s how you can get between the two states.

Marine Drive Mumbai

Rajasthan-Agra-Varanasi by bus and train

Posted on December 18, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Bus and Train are a great and inexpensive way to travel in India. We asked one of our friends and client to write about her experience travelling through Rajasthan, Agra, and Varanasi. This blog entry is written by Nicky Millar (for more about who she is, and about her awesome travel/volunteering adventure check out her blog).

3 girls, 12 days and 6 stops –

I was on a whirlwind trip! Deciding that we were on a tight budget with money, as well as time, we took on the railways and roads for the duration of this trip, and the train and bus travel was an experience all on its own!

Hanging out in Jaisalmer

Mumbai to Udaipur by Bus

Starting from Mumbai, we booked a 14-hour semi-sleeper bus through India Someday to get to our first stop, Udaipur. In hindsight, probably not the best way to start. That bus raised our expectations far too high! From soft leather seats to receiving blankets when it got too chilly, the journey, although long, was a dream (notwithstanding the snoring man behind me of course). The bus exceeded our expectations about travel in India.

As with all bus trips, there were food and toilet breaks which were invariably in the middle of nowhere (think road + random building + toilet + an ever-present snack shop). We tended to have our own nibbles with us (as the stops were a bit inconvenient and we got hungry), but generally, the food on offer was good.

Be prepared for basics as English menus are a true enigma! If hungry, stick to the simple dal fry and rice and you will never go wrong. As for the restrooms and toilets, although stinky, they were definitely usable.

The Majestic City Palace of Udaipur sits on the banks of Lake Pichola

Udaipur to Jodhpur by bus

Next was a bus to Jodhpur. This trip from Udaipur was by far the worst (even though it appeared to be a “private company”). We were plonked right in the back and bounced around for nearly 10 hours due to delay. The delay was because of its own insistence to stop at every junction.

It did so to get more passengers, despite already being double-booked for most seats! It is with this journey in mind that I will divulge the greatest lesson learned when it comes to bus travel:

Try to book in advance so as to have the luxury of more options, and in the same vein, and

2. Always ask for a seat in the front. The ever-blasting horn may be louder, but your butt will thank you immensely.

Let’s just say that the bus’ suspension is not its strongest selling point. The best option though is to travel here by car. Even though it may be a little expensive but after the long and tiring journey, it’s absolutely worth it!! (check out this blog on car travel)

You can visit this beautiful Jain Temple in Ranakpur on way to Jodhpur

Jodhpur to Jaisalmer by bus

It is hard to make a comprehensive conclusion about bus travel, because cliché as it is, every single trip is unique! No kidding, a public bus (the RSRTC, Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation) can be better than the private or at least equally amusing.

Plus a night bus may not always save you that precious day of sightseeing. Also, not very preferable as you’d have to catch up on sleep when you arrive exhausted at the destination! For example, in a completely unprecedented event, our bus from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer was EARLY – until that point I was convinced it was a completely foreign concept in India!

Overall though, I consider bus travel a relatively fun experience. And in most places, there are many multiple companies with different departure times.

Incredible Golden City of India – Jaisalmer

Jaipur to Agra by train

Now when it comes to trains, I would greatly urge you to do at least one when in India. I mean you have to. It is quite simply the quintessential Indian experience! Our first one, Jaipur to Agra, was a simple afternoon trip, which we took in Sleeper class.

It was a short and fun journey, spiced up by a few interesting people that you will inevitably come across while travelling.

Great fort to explore, lovely red stone and distant views of the Taj Mahal – Red Fort, Agra

Agra to Varanasi by train

This was our second train journey and heading from Agra to Varanasi. Since this was a long journey we upgraded to an AC 3-tier (read up on different train classes.) In classic backpacker style, we booked an 11 pm train to be able to enjoy the whole day in Agra and then still get a half-day in Varanasi (ETA 12 pm the next day). Here is a blog on a two-week travel route which includes Varanasi and Rajasthan.

However, our departure was delayed by 5 hours and our arrival by nearly 9 hours. So do bear in mind that at times, especially in winter, long-distance journeys can be heavily delayed.

India showed us that planning a trip here by ourselves is not always easy and using local knowledge would have saved us a lot of time! Trying to maintain “inner zen”, we waited first in the ticket office’s private rooms and when that closed at midnight we shifted to the First Class waiting rooms next to the platform (despite a sleeper class ticket, we just paid Rs 100 and it was all good).

Luckily, given that it is the ultimate tourist route, there were heaps of foreigners which made for good company! To compare, the sleeper and Ac three-tier, the Ac three-tier has the exact same layout (open plan, triple bunks) with AC. But, at a greater cost, the atmosphere is a lot calmer and the greatest bonus – sheets, and blankets are included!

Things to keep in mind and in check

Again, it is impossible to definitively say what your journey will be like on a train. But the law of averages says that you will be delayed at some point in your trip! If one compares to bus trips, your choice of food is far greater, as you have chai and thali wallas constantly coming through the carriages.

Also, the ability to jump off at any of the stops and grab a bite (the train tends to wait at least 10 minutes at each station, and it starts again so slowly that it is easy to jump back on), meaning that you have an array of goods to choose from!

Toilets on the train were the same in the sleeper and 3 AC (but the latter did have a western-style one on offer too). Train travel in India can be frustrating. Just be patient and amuse yourselves with the humourous element of your situation.

Trains are filled with interesting people, so interacting with them can pass time quite easily (Photo Credit – Rignam Wangkhang)

Views on safety for women while travelling by bus and train

Finally, as three females, it is worthy to mention our feeling of safety throughout the trip. In terms of baggage, I was more than comfortable to have my big bag put in the holdall in the belly of the bus (obviously having my important goods with me). Whereas on the train, I just had it on the bed.

I can honestly say that I never felt threatened at any time when it came to personal safety. However, be prepared for constant gawking! The best advice I can give is always to try and get an “upper” berth in trains. It will guarantee you some personal space and provide some distance between the thoroughfare of the aisles!

For the most part, booking is relatively easy. If you have a credit card and know what you want! The best way to go is to have a travel agency do it for you from the onset. Naturally, you will have to weigh up the importance of flexibility vs. affordability.

If time is a constraining factor then sometimes thinking ahead of the most efficient route could be beneficial! Finally, when it comes to which class to book, although seemingly overwhelming, it is actually quite easy and depends on your budget/(dis)comfort tolerance.

Here are a few tips for all you solo female travellers apprehensive about traveling to India alone.

Bus:

Seater/semi-sleeper/sleeper is the most common categories and essentially refers to how far back the seats recline (with the last being a full on bed). The decision of AC/Non-AC tends to depend on when and where you are going. The North in winter is freezing. Thus, the idea of an AC is horrific. The heat is OK during overnight travel as you can just pop a window open.

Train:

General/sleeper/AC 3-tier/AC 2-tier/AC 1-tier generally have comfort levels directly proportionate to pricing. I would urge you not to go below sleeper, as the general class has no seat allocation (so you can only imagine the chaos). While I am 100% content with sleeper, sometimes circumstances require a bit more comfort than it is able to offer! For more about different train classes read here!

While we travelled independently the help provided by India Someday was invaluable. Booking our Varanasi to Agra train ticket, putting us on a comfortable bus from Mumbai to Udaipur, recommending an awesome new hostel in Jaipur. We highly recommend them if you are pressed for time and wish to have a security net while travelling in India! They are unlike the traditional travel agencies you’d find.

Our A/C three-tier ride from Varanasi to Agra

Jaisalmer: The Golden City in the Desert

Posted on November 21, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Jaisalmer is a beautiful city near the Thar Desert and is 100 kilometres away from the Pakistan border. After our arrival at the train station, a car from the hotel picked us up and brought us to our accommodation. On the way, we saw Fort Jaisalmer for the first time and I felt like Aladdin in Disneyland.

The fort is amazing and gives you glimpses as a pretence of former times when kings ruled the country. The haveli built there, which is a traditional historic townhouse of Old India, is breathtaking. There are many wonderful things to do in Jaisalmer; that we were able to cover on our trip with the help of India Someday.

The Gadsisar Lake is definitely worth a visit, a beautiful oasis in the Thar Desert

Things we did in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Fort

If looking for things to do in Jaisalmer then I would suggest visiting the fort. In 1156, the fort was built by the Rajputana ruler called Jaisal. I would highly recommend visiting the Fort Palace.

There is an audio-guide included in the ticket that allows one to learn so much about the history of the city. The various rooms inside the palace are beautiful. You have amazing views when you walk into the gates, that reminded me of being in a fairytale.

Jain Temple

We saw two nice Jain temples inside the fort while we walked around (although it should be noted that the entry for this monument was quite expensive.) The relics made of sandstone were intricately detailed and interesting to see.

Camel Safari

One of the best things to do in Jaisalmer is the camel safari. This was one of the most exciting, romantic and a spectacular part of our trip to Jaisalmer. We started the trip at 15:00 hrs along with a Spanish couple and a man from Canada. To get to the tour, we drove for half an hour and made a pit stop at a nearby village; making it not very far to travel.

At 17:00 hrs, we began our camel safari in the Thar Desert from the Khuri Sand Dunes Resort. It was a little scary when the camel stood up as it was difficult to find my balance, but I soon was able to get a grip over it. To sit on a camel is not too comfortable and it is also very high. But once we headed off, the view was amazing.

An Unexpected Event

However, after 10 minutes a small herd of sheep crossed our way and two of the small sheep “attacked” two of the camels. One of the sheep was under my camel which made the animal really nervous and aggressive, because of which it became really difficult to stay put in the saddle. In the end, I had to jump off the camel before it escalated and could become a dangerous situation for me and the other rider.

I had to calm down and get my nerves together before I could jump back on. Marlene was also a little in shock. After a while, everyone was better and we continued our journey through the desert. We arrived at our camp in the sand dunes after an hour of riding.

It was an amazing view, as we enjoyed the sunset together in a secluded area, managing to take some great pictures in the meantime. After a delicious dinner, the cameleers sang us some folk-songs. We had a lot of fun together.

Our “beds” were also very comfortable, and we were given blankets to sleep with. It was amazing to sleep outside under the clear skies with the moon shining and the twinkling stars.

In the morning we enjoyed the beautiful sunrise and a delicious breakfast. After this, we rode the camels back through the sand dunes to the main street where a car picked us up.

Camel safari in Jaisalmer, India

Our Accommodation

In Jaisalmer, we stayed in a comfortable hotel called The Mystic Jaisalmer. This is a beautiful hotel with an amazing roof-top terrace view of the Golden Fort. Our room was clean, the beds were comfortable, and the room itself had nice furniture. The staff, especially the boss, were really friendly and gave us lots of good information about the camel safari in great detail.

Mystic Jaisalmer Rooftop (Picture Credit: Tripadvisor)

Restaurants

1. Mystic Jaisalmer

On the roof-top terrace, I enjoyed delicious Rajasthani food with naan and vegetables grown in the desert. The staff is very friendly and the service is quick. It had a nice ambience with an impressive view of the fort.

2. Sunset

This restaurant is located inside the fort. Here you can enjoy very good Indian food on a roof-top terrace, and everything is about the view of Jaisalmer Fort.

3. Jaisal Italy

This restaurant offers very good Italian pasta on par with international standards. I also ordered an orange juice. This one was unfit for consumption but there was no problem sending it back and ordering another drink. Marlene’s ice tea was of very good quality.

4. The Bhang Shop

Well, this one was very interesting! We were able to order crushed seeds and leaves of the cannabis plant (only legalised in certain regions of the country) mixed with milk, served as a traditional drink in India. The effects left us craving lots of food and parts of the day we cannot remember.

Explore More: The Pinnacle of Rajasthan’s Travel Destinations

The royal cenotaphs of the rulers of Jaisalmer (Picture Credit: Conde Nast Traveller India)

Kankarwa Haveli Udaipur

Posted on November 13, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Kankarwa Haveli is a heritage hotel on the banks of Lake Pichola in the Lal Ghat area. Mr. Janardan Singh and his son Divyarishi have restored their ancestral home into a hotel. They have maintained the traditional charm of the original Haveli but refurbished it with modern amenities to appeal to the international audience. This, we felt is a very good mix.

We stayed in the Deluxe Lakefront Suite which had an amazing view of the Lake Pichola and the opulent Taj Lake Palace. The room was large, well lit and ventilated and had a very romantic air about it. That is the magic of a lake facing room. It’s worth spending the couple extra bucks (although we received a free upgrade!). It had a separate sitting area overlooking the lake which was a plus. The bathroom was white and spotlessly clean with modern European fittings.

Lakeview Restaurant

What we love about Kankarwa Haveli

The rooms are done up really well and no two rooms are the same in terms of size and décor. Simple, classy interiors with clean and comfortable bedding. The partial lake facing rooms also have a decent view of the lake with a cushioned sitting area near the window.
Divyarishi is more than willing to have a quick chat and help you with directions and things to do. They can arrange a car or if you wish bicycles for you to get around Udaipur.

What we like about Kankarwa Haveli

The proximity to the City Palace and shopping spots.
Breakfast served at the rooftop was non-greasy and appetizing. You can choose anything from the menu even if already paid for with the room.

What we did not like

Although it wasn’t an issue for us, the staff speaks very little English and it can get difficult if you need help when the owners are not around.
The stairs are huge and steep which can be difficult to climb and risky for old persons or young kids.
They do not have room service. We would have loved to sit in the comfort of our rooms with a beer or even a hot cup of chai.
Rooms in heritage style

Kankara Haveli is ideal for

Couples
Perfect for a romantic stay and if looking for privacy.

Rates and details for Kankarwa Haveli

The hotel is moderately priced and the room rates start from INR 3,250 for a partial lake facing room. Lakefront suites are INR 5,000+
Contact Person: Mr Janardan Singh and Mr Divyarishi
Website: http://www.kankarwahaveli.com/
For TripAdvisor Reviews of Kankarwa Haveli: Click here

To plan your thoughtful and economical trip across Rajasthan, contact us.

Spic and span suite at Kankarwa Haveli

If you need our assistance in planning your trip to this beautiful region, do get in touch with us. We would be happy to help you plan a customized trip according to your need!

Luxury Redefined: India’s Top Hotel Picks

Jaipur from our point of view

Posted on November 8, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

A visit to Jaipur offers a lot, such as bustling markets, a stunning Fort, and amazing bars. If you are a movie lover, I would also suggest visiting the famous cinema, Raj Mandir, to get a taste of Bollywood action. My family and I liked the city a great deal and it makes for the perfect holiday destination. One of the best places to visit in Jaipur is the Amber Fort as it was a grand infrastructure surrounded by such a beautiful landscape. Alongside this, the city has many great sights for you to explore and is a holiday you will never forget.

Hawa Mahal

The best places to visit in Jaipur

The Pink City

Jaipur is known as the Pink City because of the terracotta pink colour scheme that dominates the area. This adds to the wonder, placing you in a fantasy as you wander around, gazing up at the historical architecture. We arrived at 09:00 hrs in the Pink City. At this time everything was still closed at as the markets do not open this “early in the morning”. But this suited me well as I wasn’t in the mood for shopping, or rather negotiating.

Jaipur City Palace

The City Palace is definitely one of the best places to visit in Jaipur. It is a beautiful palace with a fascinating museum and the most interesting historical exhibitions I have ever seen. There is a room where artists offer their traditional craftwork for you to view. I was impressed with the various handmade products like woodwork, carpets, jewellery and paintings. The artists showed us how they make their products and we had an interesting conversation with them about their work.

Jantar Mantar

Completed in 1734, the Jantar Mantar is one to visit if you are interested in astrology and physics. It is located near the City Palace and features the largest sundial in the world. Make sure you get a guide so that you have someone with the right knowledge to explain all the different instruments to you.

Hawa Mahal – Palace of Wind

Hawa Mahal is a beautiful site, especially when the fountains are turned on. When David and I were there the biggest challenges for me was the attention I got for being a white woman. Particularly in the tower, there is little space for everybody to fit through. A school class of 16-year-old boys followed us up the tower so it was quite crowded. I was bothered a little by the students trying to take pictures with me so make sure that you are prepared that you may be hassled. Apart from this, it was a very enjoyable experience to wander around this romantic, historic monument.

Amber Fort

Amber Fort is an awesome sight and one of the best places to visit in Jaipur, I highly recommend it! We hired a guide to show us around and were very happy to have done so because of how gigantic the Fort was. It also has a grand history! We were given detailed information that we would not have learned otherwise.

Jaigarh Fort

If you are an animal lover then I suggest you visit Jaigarh Fort. Here you have the chance to see an amazing group of monkeys that will come up close to you. The Fort itself was not really impressive, in my opinion, but the view is wonderful.

Nahargarh Fort

At Nahargarh Fort, you have the best view of Jaipur! It even has a restaurant from where you can perfectly see the capital of Rajasthan. There was such a beautiful view as we enjoyed the sunset with a kingfisher. I highly recommend you to do the same. Arrange in advance for a rickshaw to bring you back down the hill as it is difficult to find anybody once you are up there.

Jal Mahal – Water Palace

The water palace is a wonderful site to see. It is located in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake and is a monument of 17^th Century architecture. You cannot enter the palace, but from across the lake, you get a lovely view of the sight. It is worth a quick stop to gaze at the building, particularly in the evening.

Visiting Rajasthan? Checkout our Full List of Best Places to Visit in Rajasthan

Learn More: Twenty Must-Visit Places in North India

Amber Fort

Accommodation in Jaipur

Zostel

Our accommodation was the Zostel, the first hostel chain in India. I loved my stay here. You have the chance to meet a lot of people from all over the world. The facilities are really nice and you can sit together on the terrace to get a view of the scurrying streets around you. Through the Zostel, we met a lot of people who we later travelled with. I would especially recommend this hostel to those travelling alone.

Advice on other hotels in the area can be found here.

The beautiful Jal Mahal in Jaipur stands in the backdrop of Aravalis

Jaipur food and drink

If you would like a taste of Jaipur food then consider these recommendations. They offer a great selection of local and international food for you to try.

LMB – Vegetarian Restaurant

Definitely worth a visit! The restaurant is in the Pink City and is famous for its desserts. I believe there is no wrong order at LMB, but the best was for sure the Kulfi, which was incredibly delicious! Overall the restaurant offers a great selection of vegetarian Jaipur food.

Niro’s – Indian Restaurant

Niro’s is quite expensive but also very good quality! David ate a fish in creamy sauce with spinach and I ate Chicken Hong Kong, which was also very tasty.

C’est Bon – Italian Restaurant

We went with some Indian friends to this restaurant. It was the best pasta I have ever had in India and was mixed with delicious ham and cheese. There was a great selection of desserts to choose from. Try the cheesecake, it was lovely!

100% Rocks – Bar and Restaurant

Nice location for going out on a Saturday night. They have great cocktails and the people are very welcoming and easy to get along with. The most important thing is: there are a lot of nice people to meet at the weekend.

Rajasthani Thali!

A day of travel, food and spirituality in Amritsar (India)

Posted on November 3, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

This weekend I went to Amritsar to do some research for our India Someday clients. The religious city in Punjab is famous for three things – The Golden Temple, delicious Amritsar food, and the Wagah Border. After a lot of exploring (and a lot of eating!), we’ve concluded that this is definitely one city you do not want to miss!

Golden Temple lit up in the evening

Amritsar Food

Amritsar is a food lover’s paradise. From the moment you wake up, the amount of Amritsar food you will manage to eat is a revelation. Choose between aloo puris (potato curry served with deep fried Indian bread stuffed with cottage cheese), or chole puri (the same bread served with spicy lentils) for breakfast. Kanha Sweets or Munim di Hatti at Lawrence Road are the best places to try these.

For lunch I suggest you pay a visit to the Golden Temple Langar. Or try visiting Kulcha Land where for just INR 50 -100 they serve great stuffed kulchas and lassi. If you have room left for dinner head to Bharwan ka Dhaba or Kesar ka Dhaba, for some rajma (red beans) and rice, or tandoori roti and veggies. If you have not noticed yes there is a slight bias, I am vegetarian.

North Indian food in general is a little heavy on the stomach, but eating Amritsar food is so much fun you cannot stop. Every corner you go to or every street you visit you will always find something being cooked. From aloo tikkis to fresh fruit juice, it’s all so tasty and delicious that I cannot stop raving about it.

There is lots of butter, lots of fatty foods and loads of proteins and lentils. The few days you’re there, I would suggest throwing any diet out of the window.

Excluding the taste, the best part of eating in Punjab is the people. Punjabis are a jolly bunch of people who love only one other thing more than eating – feeding someone else. So enjoy your meals hot and served with lots of love and smiles.

You can view some of our two week travel routes across North India, we can include a trip to Amritsar in your trip.

Amritsar food will always leave you craving for more

The Golden Temple

The serenity and the beauty of the Golden Temple is mesmerising. People often compare visiting this temple to visiting the Taj Mahal. I can guarantee that it is equally as spectacular, probably even more so. Experience continuous spiritual chanting, the stillness of the water, and the thousands of people providing service for nothing in return.

The ornate beauty of the Golden Temple itself makes your visit here truly special. I would recommend also signing up and helping to cook in the Langar. The temple itself has a long line upon entry no matter what time of the day you visit.

A Langar is found in every single Gurudwara or Sikh Temple and has an element of religious belief. It is a 24 hour open kitchen. The food is free to all guests without any discrimination. You can donate a small sum of course and you should!

The entire kitchen is run by volunteers who work in shifts. Anyone can volunteer and be a part of this team. The food is healthy and nutritious and filled with love.

You should visit the Golden Temple in the morning or at night when the religious book is taken back into safe keeping. It happens around 2200 hrs.

The beautiful Golden Temple at a distance

Wagah Border: India’s patriotic pilgrimage

Palpable in the air of Amritsar is the feeling of patriotism invoked when you visit Jallianwala Bagh or the Wagah Border.

As sad and haunting as the tragedy of the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre is, the Wagah Border is on the other end of the spectrum. Yet both are connected by a heavy sense of history and Indian strength. The border is the only entry point between India and Pakistan.

Every evening you can witness a fun and competitive beating retreat, or the ‘raising/ lowering of flags’, ceremony. The passion with which the soldiers fulfil this duty is incredible. Shouting, singing, the thumping of the feet, drums, dancing and trying to outshine the other side makes for a surreal experience.

Displays of patriotism at the Wagah Border

Accommodation

The stay in this city is not very expensive. Lower range budget hotels like Akaal Residency are clean and good value for money. And you even have a few unique options like Virasat Haveli.

But here we would recommend staying at a higher end property. Reason being, as you do want to go back to an empty shell after the hustle and bustle of the narrow streets. My pick would be a stay at the Hyatt in Amritsar – they have nice cosy rooms and the service is impeccable.

Overall, Amritsar is a destination you should visit if travelling to India. The Golden Temple, Amritsar food, and the patriotism and general spirituality of the area make for a warm and welcome stay. If you need help in seeing how you can fit Amritsar into your itinerary, let us know and we at India Someday can help you plan your trip.

Budget Backpacking Tour in North India

Posted on October 30, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

backpacking in north india: rajasthan – Agra – delhi

Here we have drafted a 14 to 16 day backpacking tour in North India. In this trip, you’ll travel across Rajasthan, stopping at the magical desert town of Jaisalmer, the beautiful blue town of Jodhpur, Udaipur the city of lakes, the spiritual and religious haven Pushkar and more.

If you’d like to go on a similar route but need help optimizing your time and money, get in touch with us and we’ll help plan your trip perfect for you.

Leather shopping (Photo Credit – Suket Dedhia from Pixabay)

the Route

Delhi – Agra – Jaipur – Jaisalmer – Jodhpur – Udaipur – Pushkar – Delhi

Modes of transport for North India budget tour

Because your primary transport will be trains, this tour is quite economic. Trains are fast, dependable and a great way to experience North India and interact with the locals.

Where will you stay?

A mix of hostels (always safe, fun, and very social), homestays and small guest houses. In Jaisalmer, you’ll be able to camp in the desert. The varied mix of accommodation ensures your trip is budget friendly whilst also giving you the full experience.

Cost of the tour

The cost of the tour would approximately be GBP 460 per person depending on the following:

What time of the year you are travelling
Preference to always travel by A/C train (or sleeper class is fine)
If you like having a private room at all times (or dorms are perfect)
Travelling alone or a couple/group

Read Further: Evaluating the Cost of a Trip to India

The cost includes

Overnight stay throughout your trip
All train tickets
Taxi and driver between cities when the train is not possible
India Someday planning and bookings fees
All taxes

Let us know how many travellers you would be and your wish list and we will help you plan your trip.

Sunset by the ocean

Highlights of travelling to North India

It is often said that India is not a holiday, but an experience. Travelling across North India will leave you with memories of a lifetime. Highlights of your India experience will vary from traveller to traveller, but here are some highlights that you can look forward to for this backpacking tour in North India – Rajasthan, Agra and Delhi.

1. The awe-inspiring New Delhi

New Delhi can be overwhelming but it’s definitely worth it. New Delhi has an incredibly rich history, interesting architecture, and great food (and we mean it). Expect to see a mix of charm and bustle in Old Delhi and glistening manicured lawns in New Delhi. Getting around can be surprisingly easy with the new amazing metro system.

Click here to read impressions of New Delhi as experienced by young travellers from Austria.

Red Fort

2. Endless Desert and its Golden City

Jaisalmer is truly incredible, but the effort to get there makes it all the more satisfying. You’ll take an overnight train from Jaipur to reach Jaisalmer. The old city is beautiful, crafted in stone, sand and rock. Nicknamed the ‘Golden City,’ it’s by the edge of the Thar Desert where you’ll spend a night after witnessing the stunning sunset.

Camel Safari in Jaisalmer

3. Riding the Indian Trains

Trains in India are a fascinating experience. There’s a distinct buzz of energy at the stations and you get lovely chai while on board. You get to see Indian families and often interact with them. Above all, you’ll see beautiful views of the countryside and little villages.

Trains are a great way to see the countryside if travelling by day, and by night, a great way to meet new people

4. Mouth-watering North Indian food

For a foodie, India is the ultimate paradise. Treat yourself to amazing naan, curry, lassi, Indian sweets and much more. Home cooked food is always better, so the homestays will have amazing food. Do remember, the food can get a little on the spicy side, so try to prepare yourself for that!

Explore More: Seizing the Right Time for India Exploration

North Indian Thali, a platter with different curries (Photo Credit – NoDurians)

5. Meet locals and fellow travellers

The hostels and hotels will allow you to meet a variety of interesting travellers along your backpacking tour in Rajasthan. This is always a plus, as you’ll make new friends and even stay with local families and soak in their traditions and culture.

You’ll find yourself meeting so many nice and helpful people along the way

6. The Taj Mahal

You would be visiting the Taj Mahal. Do not miss the Agra Fort or the Baby Taj while you are in Agra. Click here to read impressions of Agra as experienced by your young travellers from Austria.

Beautiful sights of the Taj Mahal

7. Udaipur – The Romantic Lake city

One of your last stops will be at the beautiful lake city of Udaipur in all its magnificence.

Learn More: Twenty Must-Visit Places in North India

Lake Pichola Udaipur

This tour can be customized to the number of days you are looking at travelling or specific places you’d like to see. In fact, we can help you plan trips to anywhere in India, irrespective of your budget. For more information about backpacking in North India, and planning your trip to India, feel free to get in touch with us! Don’t forget, solo travellers get a 20% discount on our fees!

Our Agra Impressions

Posted on October 17, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Marlene and David’s Agra Impressions! – Written by Marlene Hofstatter. Follow their trip to Agra, their advice on what food to eat, where to stay and the various activities to try.

Here is also a practical guide for getting around Agra to help you plan your trip!

Agra is Impressive, Baby Taj

On Finally Viewing the Taj Mahal

On the second day of our trip to Agra, we got up early to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. After a long check-in watching the monkeys steal chips from the tourists, we finally got in. Unfortunately, the sunrise was not that impressive because it was very foggy in the morning.

The Taj itself looked exactly like the innumerable pictures which I have seen of it. And I can’t figure out what I should think about the most famous historical sight of India. Was it nice? Yes of course, but to be honest, I wasn’t overwhelmed. The marble is beautiful, so is the whiteness, also the full details of the pietra dura technique (famous stonework in the area). Still, during our trip to Agra, it seems that our expectations were too high and the reason could be that we didn’t have the amazing history in mind. What I definitely know now: I would recommend getting a guide for the Taj, even when you know the background of it to reflect on the incredible history.

The interesting point of the Taj for me was that it seemed always so far away, not more surreal.

View of Taj Mahal (Photo Credit – neverbutterfly)

The delightful Red Fort

In our trip to Agra, we visited other monuments too. I highly recommend the Red Fort! It’s incredibly beautiful, and David and I liked it even more than the Taj Mahal. You can walk through the buildings, palaces and temples. Our impressions were that it was far better than the Red Fort in Delhi where we were not allowed to enter most of the facilities. In the Agra Red Fort, you can walk through history, which I really appreciated. You even have an awesome view of the Taj. Unfortunately, there are also some parts of the Red Fort closed for tourist which belong to the military. Nonetheless, our Agra impressions were heightened by visiting this attraction.

Great Fort to explore, lovely red stone and distant views of Taj Mahal

Our fantastic Rickshaw driver

At the beginning of our trip to Agra, we had the luck of meeting a very friendly and honest rickshaw driver at the pre-paid rickshaw stand. He struggled with other drivers who wanted to cheat us. His name is Manish, he talked a lot with us, joked and gave us very interesting information about Agra during the drive to the hotel. He even showed us a notebook with recommendations from travellers about him and his daily trips in many different languages. Of course, he offered us a daily tour throughout Agra. At first, we were not sure if we should do the daily tour, but we didn’t regret it.

He showed us the most important sights in Agra and craftsmen who made silver jewellery, textiles and also who worked with the interesting marble art pietra dura. We were never pressured into buying something and Manish even allowed David to drive his rickshaw one time.

David (pretend) riding our Rickshaw, tours around Agra

Touts and sellers in Agra

There are a lot of people who want to sell you things, and when I say things, I mean every kind of thing! We often heard in a loud voice: “Postcards, chai, water!”, and sometimes after that in a lower voice “ganja, ecstasy, speed, ketamine!” One of our answers was: “We are already happy, thanks.”

Maybe because we were used to the irritating sellers, we didn’t get very bothered by them. We often just ignored them, didn’t look at them, and went ahead. From time to time we even made jokes with them. You just have to say in a very insistent voice: “No!” or “No, thanks!”

Marble Shop (Photo Credit – Juggadery)

Places to eat in Agra

Our trip to Agra was not complete without tasting some very delicious Indian food offered at these suggested restaurants.

Hotel Sheela Restaurant

We had breakfast in our hotel. The menu is big, good for breakfast and the coffee is also very nice! The peaceful and beautiful atmosphere is framed by the garden.

Lakshmi Vilas: South Indian Food

It’s a cheap Indian restaurant with awesome food.

Saniya Palace Hotel: Rooftop restaurant

The view from the rooftop restaurant was okay, you can see the Taj from there but it was very dark in the evening. Nevertheless it was fine to eat there and to enjoy the romantic atmosphere!

Our Accommodation on our Agra trip: Hotel Sheela

The hotel where we stayed was near the Taj Mahal and in the heart of Agra. When you enter the Hotel Sheela you go directly from a hectic street life to a more peaceful garden facility where you also can visit the charming restaurant. The room is okay and our beds were clean enough. Generally we were happy with the quality of the hotel!

On our trip to Agra, we chose to stay at the Hotel Sheela (Photo Credit – PTWO)

Click on Plan Your Trip for your ideal itinerary.

Our Rishikesh Experience

Posted on October 10, 2014May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Rishikesh in Uttarakhand is a beautiful small city in the mountains. It is located at the foothills of the Himalayas in Northern India. Approximately 100,000 inhabitants live in this city. The streets are very crowded but only a few cars can be seen.

The vehicles are honking all the time, though, which is a bit annoying. It’s famous for its yoga and meditation education. The city is full of tourists who look for spiritual satisfaction, pilgrims, and sadhus (holy ascetic Hinduism men).

Here is a list of some of the things we did on our trip to Rishikesh.

A blog from David Schidl.

Marlene and myself ready for our Rishikesh adventure

Rafting on the Ganges

Our half-day rafting trip was a great experience. We (6 Indians, Marlene, and me) went at about 10:00 hrs in the car and approximately 20-30 minutes down the street next to the river. After short instructions on how to use the paddle, we started our trip to the rafts.

It was great to row through big waves. We made a short break at a cliff where we had the option to jump into the water (approximately 5 meters). During the boat trip, we were also swimming in the Ganga when there was no strong current.

Another city that has the divine Ganga flowing through the city is Varanasi. Another interesting city that can be covered after Rishikesh.

Shopping in Rishikesh

The shopping mile after the Lakshman Jhula Bridge is really nice and you can get a lot of gifts, for example, handcrafts, bags, clothes, cards, and many more presents.

If you are lucky you can take some pictures with monkeys. It is probably the most famous attraction in Rishikesh when you google images of the place, so get your cameras ready.

The Lakshman Jhula Bridge (Photo Credit – Anandamoy Chatterji)

Trekking & Waterfalls

Me taking a dip in a natural pool during our rafting trip

Our trekking trip was organized by the hotel. We woke up at 04:15 hrs and it took us and the guide about 1 hour to get to the Kunjaa Puri (height 4050 ft). It is about 15 kilometers away from Rishikesh.

There was a small, beautiful temple where you could watch the sunrise. Unfortunately, it was very foggy so the view was not the best. When you have a good view you can also see the Himalayas. After breakfast, we walked down the mountain and saw incredible rice fields and a beautiful waterfall called Neer-Ghar-waterfall.

We stayed there for about half an hour and we enjoyed a swim in the waterfall. If you are brave you can also climb up about 20 meters next to the waterfall and swim there.

Splashing around in the Neer Ghar waterfall (Photo Credit: Tripadvisor)

Our accommodation, Divine Ganga Cottage

The hotel, Divine Ganga Cottage, is surrounded by other houses and rice fields. You have a great view of the Ganga from the terrace. The staff is very friendly and helpful. They offer taxi services, rafting, trekking, spa/massage treatment, ayurvedic doctor consultation, yoga, wildlife safaris, bungee jumping, and of course, laundry.

On the terrace, you can enjoy different dishes and drinks from 07:00 hrs to 22:00 hrs. Marlene had a stress release head and body massage (Mardanam -1 hour) which she enjoyed a lot. Our room was quite nice including a TV, a little desk, a shower, and a western toilet. Wi-Fi is also available.

If you really enjoy staying with the locals, here is a list of the best homestays in North India.

The Rooftop of Divine Ganga Cottage

Places to eat in Rishikesh

Little Buddha Café

On our first day in Rishikesh, Marlene and I went to the Little Buddha Café. This restaurant looks like a treehouse and you find a lot of alternative people in this location. Marlene ordered a pizza and I got a plate of steamed vegetables. Both tasted bland. But the fruit and the mango lassi were delicious and fresh.

Devraj Coffee Corner

This little nice German bakery is next to the Lakshman Jhula Bridge. You have a nice view of the Ganga terrace. The coffee is okay. Our dessert, an apple flambé, was delicious. The breakfast is really good; they offer croissants, muesli, porridge and more.

Bhandari Restaurant

This small restaurant near the Lakshman Jhula is a restaurant with an open kitchen where you can see how they prepare the meals. You get South Indian food at a very cheap price. The meals are okay and a bit spicy.

Pyramid Café

This little restaurant is not very easy to find because it is not located on the main street. There we enjoyed the best food in Rishikesh. The vegetables are from their own organic garden and the drinks and the meals are delicious. They offer Indian, Mexican, Israeli, and Italian food. You can sit on cushions in a pyramid-shaped tent and the staff is really friendly.

Madras Café

It took us 45 minutes to come to this small, nice restaurant. It is near the second bridge called Ram Jhula. The café offers various great creamy lassis and the desserts are delicious. The staff is very friendly.

A beautiful selection of veggies and spices to feast upon (Photo Credit – Pyramid Café)

We hope that David Schidl’s experience in Rishikesh motivates you to take a trip to this beautiful town. You can know more by reading this blog of the things to do here for wider options. Get in touch with us and let’s start planning!