The third in our ‘Live like a local’ series that tries to give you the insider scoop on what the long-term residents love about their cities. Read our Mumbai and Delhi posts also!
Jodhpur is known as the blue city (Photo Credit – Rhiannon)
Where to stay
Indrashan Homestay is a beautiful red brick building surrounded by thick, lush banana plants, soft lawns and trees that droop gently over the whitewashed terraces that define the domestic life of the cities of North India.
Meet Chandrashekar and Bhavana, who urge you to their dinner table and then into their kitchens to dip your fingers into the wholesomeness of Jodhpuri cuisine. Discuss culture, history, art, society or your feelings over an evening drink by the fire that could turn into a night of scintillating conversation.
The rooms are furnished in dark wood handed down through the generations. Draped in the soft Rajasthani linen that visiting Indians carry away in great bundles to grace their winter beds.
Everything about this homestay spells the summer pilgrimage that diasporic Indians make to regroup in the houses of their grandparents. An annual regrouping of cousins and in-laws from across the country into a modern semblance of the erstwhile joint family. Accordingly, this is a journey that every traveller deserves to make.
(Photo Credit – Pond Frog)
What to eat
Rajasthani thalis. You might want to skip breakfast before you take a stab at this. Because the Rajasthanis believe in a full and I mean a FULL belly for a full life. Go to Gypsy for the whole hog: five kinds of bread, fried cakes, samosa, sweet daal and spicy vegetable, rice, chutneys and chillies ring the shiny stainless steel plate.
All around you will be college students, office workers, parents hand-feeding their little children as they tuck in heartily, always calling out for more.
Make sure you also grab a Mirchi Bada on the street, a deep-fried chilli patty. Place it between two slices of bread if you’re not sure you can handle the spice. It’s the city’s pride and joy.
Rajasthani Thali consists of little dishes of curry with a selection of bread and rice
Where to go
Go to Cafe Mehran. I know, it sounds like I’m just sending you back to eat some Rajasthani fast food or look at the monument that every tout pushed you toward. But trust me, a cold beer and good view is just what everybody needs at the end of the day. And this is the most beautiful place to savour it.
Sardar Market for shopping (Photo Credit – Ninara)
What to do
Sail high above the Blue City on Mehrangarh Fort’s own zip lines. You’ll be trekking through Rao Jodha Park and watching your murky reflection skim over the surface of the lakes as you shoot through the sky. Granted, there’s probably going to be a bunch of tourists hanging around as well. But you’ll see your fair share of adrenaline-hungry locals as well. Remember to book in advance from inside the Fort.
Ziplining by Flying Fox on the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur. Adrenaline rush guaranteed! (Photo Credit – Ashwinbahulkar)
What to say
‘Koi dikkat nahin’ (Ko-ee dikk-kath nu-hee), which literally means ‘no problem’. However, it’ll be repeated to you so often across the beautiful state. And, you’ll soon pick up the gentle lilt of the people and slip smoothly into their carefree culture.
Bonus Tips:
Jodhpur is famous for being one of the country’s ultimate wedding destinations. If you’re visiting during wedding season (December-January), look out for the lavish baaraaths or wedding processions. Actually, make that listen for the baaraath. There’s no way the deafening dhol beats and shrieking trumpets can go unnoticed.
Be ready to bargain for your souvenirs, it’ll only endear you to the shopkeepers.
If you head down to the university areas, you might find tiny hovels that call themselves restaurants. And they will have only two items on their menus – Maggi and Beer.
Jodhpur is famous for being one of the country’s ultimate wedding destinations (Photo Credit – Nomad)
We all know India as crazy, scary, chaotic, but that didn’t stop you from booking the tickets anyway, did it? So we’ll do our bit and give you the inside scoop on keeping your guard up without missing out. Here’s a couple of things we thought you’d like to be ready for.
Expect the unexpected- Photo Credit Suket Dedhia
Culture Shock
The first thing youâre going to have to get used to is that itâs quite a small country for its sizeable population. Especially in the big cities where youâre most likely to land, youâll find that personal space is a laughable concept. Trains are packed to the brim. People literally hang out the doors. Bumping, pushing and shoving is par for the course, as is a neighbouring passenger nodding off on your shoulder or a beggar child grabbing at your arm. Prepare yourself for this, or opt for a privately driven car on your first day until you think youâre ready.
A great way to ease into the chaos is to start with a homestay. Allow your hosts to explain and entertain over a couple of dozen cups of tea and maybe even hold your hand when you first venture out. Be sure to inform them in advance if youâd like the help so they can pencil it into their calendars. Most hosts are as keen to know about your life as you are about theirs, so donât hold back.
Local Interest
Finally, prepare yourself for the staring. As a foreigner, youâre a source of local interest in even the most tourist saturated neighbourhoods. While conservative dressing for women may help, itâs a decision you can make on your own, and one, many Indian women themselves are rejecting. Just remember that the sort of people that stare will stare irrespective of your clothing, so you might as well be comfortable. That said, itâs understandably difficult to make this choice when you canât speak the local language or fully understand the nuances of a social situation, so good luck! Youâll probably be asked at some point to pose with somebody for a photo, Iâd recommend against it since these are usually for bragging rights. As a woman regardless of your skin, youâre likely to be subject to eve-teasing in some form or the other, for which Iâd recommend referring to our post on legal remedies if anything ever crosses a line.
Conservative dress may be best (Photo Credit – Suffix)
Dealing with People
India has a long-respected tradition of groveling before authority, one that youâd be better off maintaining. Donât give in to anything you donât agree with, but always, always, be respectful. Use a measured tone and donât raise your voice. Be confident, and stick to your guns, but very politely.
From the minute your foot hits the pavement, youâll be engulfed in a swarm of adorably grubby beggar children, suave young âguidesâ and the like. Guidebooks will tell you to firmly refuse or ignore them, though bemused detachment works just as well if youâre not the confrontational type. Just smile, shake your head and walk away, thereâs only so far theyâll bother to follow you.
If you do end up in a heated situation, switch over 100% to damage control. Itâs best not to get involved at all. If you see something going down and you want to intervene, call the cops. You can also draw the attention of the local authority be it, hotel manager or security guard. While the law will recompense eventually, itâs an incredibly slow and arduous process that you do not want to get caught up in.
No city in India doesn’t come with a crowd (Photo Credit – PD Pics)
The traffic
Another thing thatâll disorient you is the traffic. Honking doesnât really have to mean anything. Itâs just a way to vent some rage in traffic, call out to a friend or pass the time! Crossing the road is a great and thrilling adventure. Just pick a likely looking crown on a footpath and bury yourself within them as they weave through moving traffic with a single hand raised nonchalantly to alert the racing cars. Traffic rarely halts before the zebra crossing and jumps red lights for sport. Itâs terrifying and exhilarating all at the same time!
Crossing the road can be exhilarating (Photo Credit – Thomas Gerlach)
Avoiding Danger
There are a few rules that all travellers have learned by rote when it comes to a new city. Donât travel by night, make fake phone calls, pre-book travel, stay off the shadowy side streets – but only until youâre confident. Thereâs no reason for you to cower away forever. But itâs good to have a sense of the city and its people before you run around taking risks willy-nilly.
Be safe and donât forget to call home!
If you need any assistance, simply get in touch with us or hit the Plan Your Trip button. We will help plan your dream trip to this vast subcontinent.
If you have a sense of the city, then it becomes easier to go along (Photo Credit – Makalu)
Delhi is amazing for sightseeing as its long and tumultuous history brought in a lot of different monuments, architecture, diverse cultures and multiple religions who live peacefully together. However, if you don’t just want to check off the well-known sights from your list but actually experience Delhi like a local – authentic, real – then this is the ultimate guide to it. If you like more tips like these, plan your trip with us and we will make sure you travel like a local.
Spacious dinner area at Tree of life on each floor
Where to stay like a local in Delhi
Tree of Life. A cushy little BnB run by a couple who’ve spent years in the tourism industry and yoga community respectively. Well furnished rooms, simple rules, good food. It’s a good option for those worried about the over-congestion or safety issues of Delhi because it gives you a chance to step into the local life without stepping too far out of your comfort zone. For breakfast, the owner comes to sit and chat with you. Be ready for informational conversations that could help you plan your day. So while you get fresh parathas (stuffed flatbread) and steaming chai served, soak in all the information.
Large clean comfy room with a lovely bed, soft pillows and exclusive interiors
What to eat like a local in Delhi
Mutton Seekh at Karim’s. Tourists and locals squeeze in together to savour the delights of the cooks rumoured to have once served royalty. Karim’s serves up its culture in the streets and doesn’t hold back. It is easy to get carried away by the tidal wave of passionate students and truck drivers, housewives and society madams, college professors and IT professionals. Here’s a full guide to eating in Old Delhi!
Seekh Kebab (minced meat on a stick) (Photo Credit – www.ibb.in)
Where to go like a local in Delhi
Lodhi Gardens. Some might say it’s only where the upper class hang out in their trendy jogging gear and kitty party circles. But, it makes for a great spot to tune out the crowds and enjoy some of the lesser-known architecture without the hordes of tourists breathing down your neck. Buy a kulfi or some deliciously deep-fried momos and make a picnic of it.
Green relaxed Lodhi Gardens (Photo Credit – en.wikipedia.org)
What to do like a local in Delhi
Take a cycle rickshaw through Chandni Chowk. You are in for the most terrifying ride of your life, but hey, you wanted authentic! Just like every other activity in this blessed city, you’ll be accosted by food vendors from all sides, We suggest not to feel shy and take full advantage of it! Stop to buy some colourful glass bangles to take home, or maybe some flashy kurtas for that aunt back home who keeps demanding presents. The choices are endless!
Cycle Rickshaw in Chandni Chowk (Photo Credit – Guilhem Vellut)
What to say like a local in Delhi
‘Jugaad‘ is more than just a phrase. This phrase was invented in the North but now is an attitude that envelopes the entire country. It implies an ability to put together a solution from the most unlikely of resources and to find a way out of the tightest spot through a combination of mind-blowing creativity and earnest prayer. You’ll see it in the many uses of a bicycle from goat-ferry to bucket-and-mug retailer. Astonishing feats of engineering that keep some of the more recent structures aloft will marvel you. Push yourself out of your comfort zone and see where it gets you.
More practically, learn the phrases thanda paani (cold water) and garam paani (hot water). They’ll serve you well in the fluctuating seasons.
Be prepared for the weather. Being as far inland as it is, Delhi’s weather is always at an extreme. So, you’ll either need an umbrella to keep the sun out or seven layers of woolly warmth just to stay alive.
Don’t be shy. Punjabis, the largest among the native cultural communities of Delhi, are warm, loud, and friendly folks. They want to know about you and they most certainly want to feed you. While it’s always good to be a little wary of strangers, remember that it’s not considered nosy to strike up a conversation in the street.
If you’re interested in visiting Delhi but don’t know how to fit it in your India travel plans, check out our tour ideas or plan your trip directly with us.
If you are travelling in India, Delhi will likely be a part of your trip (unless you are exploring only South India). Delhi is central to any place you are travelling in North India and is the capital of the country for good reasons. Different worlds co-exist in Delhi at the same time. A dichotomy exists: the wide roads and modern infrastructure of New Delhi and the unchanging capital of the Mughal Era, now branded Old Delhi. One thing that definitely hasn’t changed about Old Delhi is the abundance and variety of excellent food.
Here is a list of a few of our favourite places to eat in Old Delhi
Garhwal Paneer Bhandar (Photo Credit – Bomb Man)
Karims (Jama Masjid)
Self-proclaimed descendants of the royal cooks from the Mughal Dynasty, Karims is popular for its Mughlai and North Indian Cuisine. A non-vegetarian paradise, everything at Karim’s is deliciously juicy and tender. The Mutton Seekh and the Mutton Barra are our favourites. If you are a vegetarian, there arenât too many options, but the Shahi Paneer is really good and you should give it a try!
Seekh Kebab at Old Delhi outside Jama Masjid (Photo Credit – Abhishek Srivastava)
Paranthewali Galli (Chandni Chowk)
Parathewali Galli is a vegetarian food street located in the hustling market of Chandni Chowk near the Red Fort. Popular for its Parathas (bread stuffed with a spiced vegetable filling), the sheer variety of Parathas is jaw-dropping. Visit for the crowd-watching as much as the food.
“I canât please everybody, I am not butter chicken”. There’s one of the most commonly uttered phrase in North India. Everybody loves butter chicken – soft tender chicken chunks cooked in a thick gravy of tomatoes, cashews and butter. In the kitchen of Moti Mahal, a legendary restaurant also located in Old Delhi (more on Moti Mahal later), Butter Chicken was invented.
However, if you visit Aslam Chicken Corner expecting a traditional version, you’re in for a surprise. Aslam Chicken Corner serves Butter Chicken in the most literal fashion. Roast some chicken, put it in a bowl, and pour dollops of butter over it, season it with some salt and VoilĂ ! Thatâs Butter Chicken for you!
Delicious BBQ (Photo Credit – www.thehindu.com)
Moti Mahal (Dariyaganj)
You will find many Moti Mahals across the country, but they are all merely replicas of this one. The real Moti Mahal has stood the test of time. Like we said before, Butter Chicken was invented here. World-famous chefs like Gordon Ramsey and Heston Blumenthal have paid a visit to this restaurant to have their world-class food too!
(Photo Credit – www.indianexpress.com)
Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfiwale (Sitaram Bazaar)
As the name suggests, Kuremal Mohanlal is famous for its Kulfis (an Indian ice-cream). This place is popular for its variety of Kulfis, especially the Mango and the Apple Kulfi, which is stuffed inside the fruit. Don’t miss this delightful and sweet ending, after your hearty meal in Old Delhi!
Five months into my amazing India travel experience as a solo female, made possible by India Somedayâs absolutely brilliant You Wander We Pay contest, I bear good news. Iâm alive and well, perhaps even glowing, as I dream about where to venture next in this country of chaos and charm.
Probably not what you would expect to read if you, like many others I know, have been too daunted to make your way to India. Deterred by the countless blogs which warn women endlessly about the dirt, disorder and demeaning behaviour of the âterrible male species.â
Well, here are six thoughts I think you should keep in mind if heading this way. And fear not, they are not designed to scare the chapatti out of you!
Mehendi on hands (Photo Credit – Pablo Heimplatz)
Itâs pretty damn amazing here! Mind the media!
All too often, itâs the gloom and doom of life thatâs presented to us in our media, instilling fear and emphasizing negativity. Keep that in mind! Iâm not suggesting bad things donât happen – they surely do, all over the world.
And huge kudos to those who share their experiences and raise critical awareness of gender-based violence of any sort. So I say yes, read it all! Hear the important voices of survivors and fellow travellers, increasing awareness and sharing safety tips. There is lots of good advice out there.
Just beware! Itâs not the full story! There are thousands of us women who are having stellar, incident-free expeditions through India. Immersing in the culture and commotion, day and night, in cities and villages, with women and men. We’re more than safe, weâre having the time of our lives!
They each have a different success story to tell (Photo Credit – Find Your Feet, Flickr)
You will be stared at – You are fascinating!
Whether youâre on the Metro platform in Delhi or walking through a small village in Uttarakhand, you WILL be stared at. You can count on it.  All the more so if you have very fair skin or blonde curly hair! Iâve had people literally come stand a foot away from me, looking me up and down, or even sneaking selfie shots with me, as if I wouldnât notice.
Many women travellers are horrified by this and have told me they feel like sexual objects. While I can empathize, knowing we carry with us our personal and shared histories as women, I personally feel more like an object of cultural curiosity and am not at all offended. Isnât that a big part of why weâre here too?! One of my favourite parts of travelling in India is the amazing parade of people. I could watch and stare all day!
So yes, I do feel eyes on me, but I feel more like a walking museum of western life than a sexual object. I can feel their fascination with my white skin, my freckles, my smile, my jewellery, my clothes, my bag, my shoes. I feel them wondering about who I am, what I do, how I think, not just what I look like naked. And trust me, I do know that feeling of being objectified – I just happen to feel it much more on the streets of New York City than here in India.
Of course, as with anywhere, there will be some obnoxious souls you might encounter. Indian men will often be the first to warn you about them. But, after 5 months of some pretty intense travel through cities and villages, using public transportation, and following my gut, Iâm happy to say that I donât think thatâs the norm. Some men, in fact, might not even look at you at all, declining eye contact even while youâre in a conversation.
Let your guard down and be as open as possible to other walks of life
Positive Energy is Palpable! Being present. Being open.
Iâve been blown away by the positive energy here in India. Perhaps itâs one of my favourite parts of this country. Iâve travelled to many places around the world and never have I felt so much positivity. From the breathtaking natural environments of wide-open deserts (Jaisalmer, Rann of Kutch), to the stunning mountains of Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh.
The powerful rivers, the glorious beaches, the endless farmland, and even the chaotic streets are filled with people and cows. The beauty of the land coupled by the brilliant colours of clothing and other textiles can almost even be over-stimulating and nourishing for the eyes and soul! And then there are the people – for whom the answer to any question is âyes, possible!â
Take it in! Breathe it! Be present and live in the moment! Savour it! Feel its healing power! Let your guard down!
Put those fear-mongering blogs in the back of your mind – and get to know the locals, even the men! Many travellers come to India and spend their time only seeing sites and enjoying the comforts of their accommodations.
But being open to the people and culture will truly enrich your experience. It will also get you the directions and guidance you need, sometimes without even asking (the majority of people simply want to connect with you and help – not get in your pants!)
The eye contact to be made, with women and men alike, especially while circling the white marble floors of the Golden Temple grounds, is unlike anything Iâve ever experienced. Even while on buses or walking the streets, connecting eyes and exchanging genuine smiles (and perhaps ahead bobble too) is powerfully beautiful – and harmless!
The majority of people, women and men, are sincerely interested in you culturally. Hence, offering you chai because of their Indian hospitality and to interact with you, as a human.
Let your guard down (to whatever extent feels comfy and safe) and be as open as you can to the stellar people here. I for one have found myself eating the most delicious meals, experiencing the incredible wildlife and even dressing in full traditional Kutch exquisite handmade clothing – all because of my openness.
Embracing the positivity, and moving the fear factor to the backseat (still need the info to inform your gut) will surely offer you a truly memorable India experience.
Here is your chance to meet a mixture of interesting friends to make your trip more memorable
Strength in Numbers!
No, I donât mean its better to travel with a crowd, though at times, it sure is fun! I mean there are TONS of us out here. Every week, Iâm newly inspired and empowered by the calibre of solo women travellers I meet.
And not just westerners. To many Indiansâ surprise, I regularly meet awesome Indian women. Women who have quit their conventional jobs, donned their backpacks and are out exploring their incredible country. Many of them blogging about it too. Many others are venturing out for long weekends and shorter trips, plotting their grand plans for longer-term adventures.
We draw strength and passion from each other. We, women, are oozing with cultural curiosity, passion for nature and desire for healing, self-growth and connection, both for ourselves and others.
Despite our masses, many will still be uber impressed by how brave you are (little do they know how much easier it often is to travel solo). You will still frequently be asked if you are single if you have kids and why not! Roll with the questions, as you like, having fun and embracing the opportunity for dialogue, even if it feels better to white-lie your answers.
All the more interesting if you connect with local women and womenâs organizations, bearing witness to their experiences too. One of my favourite moments was chitchatting about periods with the 14 and 19-year-old sisters from Dharamkot whose home I stay in. They loved my diva cup (definitely something I recommend for all menstruating travellers!)
Such an amazing collection of women I feel honoured to now know and learn from (and with). From a 19-year-old German navigating her way through Rajasthan to the Indian woman who left her marriage and is seeking my travel suggestions. Also, to the Brit in her 70s covering more of the unbeaten path than any other woman Iâve met.
An incredible sisterhood – inspiring, empowering, and making a change!
On the go, travel buddies
Being your true self
The more you travel and the more you live, the more you know what makes you tick. What inspires you, challenges you, nourishes you, strengthens you, brings you the most fun and the list could go on. Go after those things and go at the pace that feels right for you.
Even if it means straying from the path that youâve read about, things youâre âsupposed to doâ or see others doing. This has landed me in the most amazing local and nature scenes, leading me from one great opportunity to the next.
Remember that there are no wrong turns. If you miss seeing a palace, itâs probably because you had an eye-opening conversation or were in a beautiful park. India is a thoroughly overstimulating place!
Staying in one area and unfolding the many layers; moving on to experience another terrain, language, style and cuisine; or venturing to a meditation or yoga retreat – all will offer endless anthropological phenomenon.
In India, when asked âwhy,â the answer is often âwhy not?â If you keep this philosophy in mind, following your instincts and true-self will be all the more fun.
Travel to find yourself
Good decisions and following your gut (a few little tips)
5 incident-free months of amazing travel through India (not even Delhi Belly!) I realize I might indeed be blessed with some good fortune. Iâve also followed some decent advice for making wise decisions. Even though it sometimes means sacrificing something my âtrue selfâ (see above) would want to wear or do! Here are some of the tips I find most helpful.
Dive Into India’s Textiles
Have I mentioned the vibrant colours and amazing patterns of all the textiles and clothing? Well, dive in! Leave your spaghetti-strap tanks at home (in fact, leave everything at home and carry the lightest bag possible!) Hit the markets and shop for some colourful scarves and cotton kurtas (loose, long tunics worn by Indian women).
The hardest part will be choosing! Or wear other clothing that keeps you covered. India is a pretty conservative country. Covering your shoulders and legs might make you a little hotter temperature-wise. But youâre bound to feel much comfier in other ways. It will certainly help make the inevitable staring feel benign and a colourful kurta will earn you an extra smile or two.
Enjoy the conversation
Youâll be asked over and over again about what country youâre from. And often the convo can become much more substantive and interesting. Get into it, enjoy it – and as you should anywhere, have your clear set of boundaries. Be ready to ease yourself out of the conversation as soon as you get any sort of âickyâ feeling.
Indulge in stargazing
The stars can be incredible here. Nothing like stargazing in the countryside, where the dearth of electricity means little light pollution. It’s not easy to hold me back from a good night walk, especially when my strong instincts donât smell any danger. But I make that sacrifice, both in cities and in villages. I donât do a lot of walking alone outside at night.
Thankfully, thereâs almost always something fun going on to watch, talk about, cook, eat or play inside!
Colourfully dressed Rajasthan women (Photo credit – Suffix)
Take the local transport
Local is often better. In big cities, I love taking public transportation and to get between cities and states, the trains and buses are stellar. Look out for âall-womenâ cars on local trains, usually all the way at the front or back.
Amazing to ride with so much fun colour and energy. A packed car full of traditional women carrying things on their heads and contemporary women heading to a whole array of jobs. There are even special lines for women to purchase tickets and some cities now have a fleet of all-women rickshaws.
Train Travel
For long train travel, I recommend either 2nd class AC or Sleeper Car. In Sleeper, the top bunk is best. There are lots of stories out there of women who have been groped on trains. However, I have yet to meet someone this has happened to. I love Sleeper Class because itâs always easy to connect with trusted Indian women, many travelling with their families.
They will happily keep an eye on your bag when you go to the bathroom. And they will also offer you some of the home-cooked food they brought on their journey. Lots of peddlers and other people will keep coming in and out of the train car. Hence, being on the top bunk gives you a safe place for your bags and lets you take it all in from a distance. I LOVE these train rides.
Sleeper Buses
Overnight sleeper buses are pretty great too; though beware of the double sleeper. As the name suggests, it is meant for two. And unless you know who youâre sharing it with, itâs probably not a good idea! Again, the upper level is more private but the bottom level is definitely less bumpy!
Bottom line ladies, as you would/should anywhere in the world, my best advice while travelling India is to be aware, use common sense and follow your gut. Make sure to enjoy the fabulous people and positive energy of this blessed country!
Namaste!
Thank you to India Someday, You Wander We Pay, and Incredible India.
India is home to over a billion people, and the country covers more than three million square kilometers. Now that youâve booked your plane ticket to India, youâre raring to see everything that you possibly can. With so much area to cover and so little time, not to mention your limited traveling funds, seeing India from a train window is an excellent way to soak in as much of this beautiful and diverse country as you can. Here weâll look at the step-by-step process of seeing India by rail.
Train arrives well before time
JessSignet is a travel writer and regular backpacker. She loves exploring the globe and enjoys sharing her travel insights and tips.
Step One: Choosing your Route
If you are backpacking in India then the first step is to decide where you want to go. Most trains run from one city center to another, so you can reasonably expect the train to stop in the very heart of that city. Then take a look at the times and fares. Be careful when checking fares: for longer journeys, there are sleeper cars which may or may not offer air conditioning and which may or may not include all of the meals on the journey. Be sure to take these factors into account, especially if you plan to cover a long stretch.
Once youâve chosen your route, you can easily book the ticket online or go to any train station to purchase the ticket. If it sounds a bit daunting but seeing India by rail is an exploration like no other. Also donât hesitate to call India Someday and have them handle it for you!
Engrossed readers on the go: (Credit- Rathish Gandhi)
Step Two: Packing What You Need
Seeing India by rail is a very special experience, but as any experienced train traveller can tell you, it does require some special preparation. The key to travelling by train and saving money is to bring everything that you need with you. Prices on the train tend to be a bit steep, so bring enough water and snacks to last you for the duration of your trip. Even if meals are provided with your ticket, be wary. The new food might not sit well with you as youâre traveling fast down the tracks. If youâre prone to motion sickness, itâs a good idea to take some medicine before you set out.
Remember when backpacking in India to always bring your travel documents wherever you travel, such as your passport and your visa. There are often pickpockets prowling the trains, so be sure to stash all of your valuables on your body, or keep them in a very safe place at all times. In recent years, there have also been many issues with violence toward women on the trains. While this trend has subsided a bit, many lines have created âwomen onlyâ carriages to prevent gender-based violence.
Witness beautiful views on the train journey
Step Three: Getting Onto the Train
Now that youâve packed and prepared for your train trip, youâve got to make it to the train station. Most of the larger cities in India have a central train station in the city center. Locating the station can be done by asking directions from a local. Also, don’t hesitate to ask India Someday to book you a taxi.
Make sure to arrive at the station early so that you can ensure a seat and get settled before the train leaves for your destination. If you are backpacking in India then itâs likely you may choose a less expensive and less fancy train line. Be prepared that things will not always run exactly on time. However, it is always better to be a bit early, even if the train may be a few minutes late. Many lines do not offer refunds if you miss the train, so to protect your train ticket investment and arrive early to the station!
Mumbai local (intercity) trains are packed with daily travellers
Step Four: Sharing Your Experience
Finally, youâve made it to your destination, and half of the fun was getting there! Some of the best ideas and breakthroughs were made on train journeys. Take advantage of this time to reflect on your experiences in India – from the seemingly inconsequential to the unforgettable. Use your hours to capture the scenery passing you and share it with your friends. Even though wifi is often accessible in India, itâs always a good idea to have a VPN or similar service on your device. This allows you to connect to all of your favourite websites and social media platforms while youâre abroad. Itâs also a good idea to check in with friends and/or family at each leg of your train journey so that someone knows where you are at all times.
Overall, seeing India by rail is a great way to see more of the country as you travel between destinations. Plus itâs a great way to save money as you travel around one of the largest and most crowded countries in the world. So grab your backpack and your passport, and get ready to plan, pack, travel and share your experience all over the Asian subcontinent!
This post kicks off our life like a local series, a quick run-through each of the nationâs top destinations through the eyes of its own. Find out where to stay, what to eat, where to go, what to say, and the best things to do in Mumbai. Plus a bunch of extra tips to help you drop the tourist tag. Soon you will be able to master how to live like a local in Mumbai.
Traffic in Mumbai
Where to stay
Bombay city doesn’t have quite as many homestays or couch surfing options as other world cities, but our budget hotels are a real experience in themselves! We recommend staying near Colaba the most charming part of Mumbai!
From bustling markets, delicious street food, museums and high-end restaurants, Colaba has it all. However, what adds to its charm is the stunning gateway, the famous Taj hotel and ancient buildings that reek of history.
Bandra-Worli Sea Link (Photo Credit – nahushraj23)
What to eat
To get a true experience of the city, one of the main things to do in Mumbai is to taste the local street food. Maharashtrian Fish. Parsi Mutton Dhansak (spicy gravy on brown rice). Mughlai Kheema Pao (mince and bread).
As a blend of cultures, thereâs a blend of food all equally delicious in its own right. However, none beats out Mumbaiâs very own vada pav. A delicious, hot potato patty fried in a chickpea batter, smothered in chutney and packed neatly into a sliced pav bun.
Try any of their food; itâs all local but with a masterful twist by the brilliant Chef Thomas Zachariah.
Live like a local in Mumbai and try the street food
Where to go
The surface. Whether itâs Bandraâs bandstand or Marine Driveâs Chowpatty, this is the cityâs social leveller. Watch the sunset in the company of families, lovers, schemers and college gangs. The best way to live like a local in Mumbai is to join in and watch the crowds of residents go about their daily lives.
Buy some channa from a passing urchin or fruit ice-cream from our beloved Naturals. If youâre in Bandra late, wait for Bournvita Uncle to ride upon his cycle and dole out steaming cups of hot chocolate. Feel the breeze in your hair and just listen, watch, and be a part of the passionate storm of people that fuel this city.
Things to do in Mumbai – Marine Drive
What to do
Take a hike. The cityâs surrounded by beautiful hills just a few hours out. While, as a visitor, youâre probably looking for something more in the city itself, itâs our choice of escape. Let us know if you think youâre up for a day’s rewarding climb and weâll find the perfect option for you.
For those still looking for something within the city, try the Bhau Daji Lad Museum. A fine collection of artefacts, lovingly accumulated and categorised. This is situated inside the city zoo at Byculla. Also, it encourages interaction and loves to answer all your questions about the city we adore.
For more options on things to do in Mumbai, plan your trip with India Someday and we can help make your stay unforgettable.
To live like a local in Mumbai you can pick up certain Indian phrases to help you. Try your hand at our universal fix-it âjau de, kakaâ that translates to ‘let it go, uncle’. Throw it blindly at any figure of authority, particularly cops in a sufficiently gravelly tone and you might just be able to get out of a tight spot.
Most people in Bombay of all classes speak basic English. Accordingly, thereâs no need to rock out your Namaste every five minutes. Itâs really not that commonly used. Hellos, please and thank yous have pretty much replaced their local counterparts, so that wonât cause you much trouble either.
If you contact us personally, we could give you a more private tutorial on the way of life here. Also, a lesson on bambaiiya gaalis thatâll serve you well in traffic.
Bonus tips:
Always opt for public transport. Maybe youâll get ripped off by cabs and autos but itâs worth it for stories. If they try to lie to you about the distance, at least you get to take the scenic route. Be careful of local trains at rush hour, but donât let that put you off from taking it at all. The metroâs cool and very efficient but no fun, so you can skip that
Mary Tilson is a yoga instructor with a passion for travel. This blog is on her crossing through the capital of India, suggesting the best routes and things to do in Delhi. You can follow her adventures on Instagram at @mctilson.
Iâll preface this blogpost by saying that in the last two years that Iâve spent travelling Southeast Asia and India, I tend to focus my travel plans around the natural beauty each country has to offer. Needless to say, a city like Delhi did not quite meet those standards. Yet I knew my trip to India wouldnât be complete without experiencing the crazy, chaotic city life I had been warned so much about, even if just for a day or two. So here it goes!
Gazing at the beautiful architecture Delhi has to offer (Photo Credit – Swarnava Chakraborty)
Travelling to Delhi
I firstly departed from Rajasthan to Delhi on an overnight train. My seat in 3AC was very pleasant, to my surprise! Previously I read advice on the blog on how to pick my tickets and it was super useful! I had the whole lower level of seating with a table to layout my computer and work from, and comfortable bed space for the night. I also had the pleasure of being seated across from the sweetest Indian lady who was travelling alone for the first time to visit her daughter at school. She called me over to sit with her and share cookies and even woke me up bright and early for one last chat before we got off the train. I hope all of you get so lucky!
I decided to spend the afternoon exploring by foot with a new German friend I had met in the lounge. The man at the front desk handed us a map and drew a loop of the best things to do in Delhi. All were within walking distance of the hostel. We made our way from the Red Fort to the Spice Market further visiting Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. All were accessible and convenient.
The Jama Masjid is but one of many historical monuments in Delhi for you to see (Photo Credit – Yuvraj Sachdeva)
Things to do in Delhi
As a solo female traveller, I was grateful to have company with me from the hostel. There were some city blocks where I was the only woman in sight. Furthermore, many streets are over-crowded. Be prepared to be hassled by eager vendors and cyclists ready to pull you down the street. If you remain open-minded and breathe through the chaos, the streets of India are a pretty amazing experience. It is full of colourful buildings draped with hundreds of hanging wires and the aroma of fresh tea from the enthusiastic street vendors! At one point, I remember spotting a monkey walking across the electrical lines. I imagined us sharing the same thought – how the hell have we got ourselves into this mess! Two days in Delhi were enough to give me my first fix, and it was well worth the stop!
My second time crossing the capital my friend and I decided to hop on one of the tours. We visited the India Gate, Rajpath, the Presidentâs House, Cathedral Church of Redemption, the Ancient Haunted Stepwell, and a couple of others! We had a good time getting to know our local guide, who also puts on a lot of the evening activities around the city. There are also so many different and exciting things to do in Delhi. If you’re going to be crossing through the capital, as I did multiple times, it’s worth giving yourself time to check out all there is to offer!
From divine desert dunes to sacred lakes and simple village life, Iâve been feeling the India pulse and loving it. My India Someday – You Wander We Pay itinerary has been chock full of varied landscapes and city scenes. I canât lie though â sometimes the cacophony of the cities makes me lose my mind.
Horn honking seems to be the official sound of this country. It’s accompanied by the loud rumbles of autorickshaws travelling in every direction, with visible exhaust blowing out the back.
I always knew Delhi was on my itinerary but was sort of in denial about it. I had been warned extensively about the dirt, chaos and general craziness. Several fellow travellers shared awful stories of Delhi-induced travel fighting.
My next stop would be Delhi and boy, was I dreading it. I even let friends back home know Iâd finally have some more time to catch up and to get some writing done. I thought Iâd hate Delhi so much and never want to leave my lodgings!
Crazy traffic in Delhi
The train journey
My train (I love my train rides!) from charming Pushkar (well, Ajmer actually) arrived Delhi close to midnight. I was sitting next to some fun young women, (and some drunk men!). They live in Delhi and were coming from a 10-year reunion from their boarding school.
These professionals who run their own businesses or work for internet companies warned me to never trust rickshaws, never take regular taxis. Be careful on the metro, and basically fear all men in the city – essentially confirming many rumblings Iâve heard before. What an awful place this sounded like.
Exiting the train, I was bombarded by all sorts of chaos. Primarily rickshaw and taxi drivers harassing me as I tried to find my way to the pre-paid taxi booth. I negotiated with one and we got on our way, though not without some trepidation on my part.
Using a map on my phone, I followed along. I also had the driver speak to someone at the guesthouse where Iâd be staying. This is a recommended measure to confirm the driver knows where to go and also knows someone is waiting for me!
The view outside the train window (Photo Credit – Moneycontrol)
My first impression
Granted it was midnight and much of the city was at rest, but I was still quite surprised by the relatively traffic-free, smooth, well-maintained highways and roads. No cows or goats or camels in sight! As we approached some of the smaller streets, I noticed they were absolutely quiet. I might actually use the word peaceful.
They were tree-lined and I even spotted some sidewalks. We were in the neighbourhood of GK-1 (Greater Kalish) in South Delhi which I now understand is DRASTICALLY different from Old Delhi. Particularly, the Paharganj neighbourhood where many backpackers stay. (and get a bit batty from the madness, dirt and chaos!)
Thank you, India Someday! Thank you, You Wander We Pay! You booked me a charming room in a quiet neighbourhood with several parks nearby. Plenty of shopping options, lots of food choices and a nearby Metro stop.
This is absolutely the right thing to do – to ease into Delhi life by staying in the newer, quieter areas. Shame on the many guidebooks for not advising this. There are plenty of accommodations for the full array of budgets, from dorm-style hostels to boutique and business hotels.
Some may shun the idea of staying in a more upscale neighbourhood, wanting to stay where the âactionâ and âreal lifeâ is, but recognizing my privilege as a traveller and writer I personally am keen on experiencing all a city has to offer. The new and the old, the wealthy and the poor, the restaurants and the street food, the clean air and the smog!
There are way too many travellers out there hating on Delhi, never having left the Paharganj neighbourhood to clear their heads. Experience the disparity and see the actual city they judge by just one area (more on the dynamics and distinctions of touring/travelling/living in another post soon!)
A calmer side of Delhi (Photo Credit – sach1tb, Flickr)
Day one
My first plan of the day was to meet a friendâs friend who does some awesome community organizing work in India. He met me at Bed and Chai (where I was staying), and after a 3-minute walk, we were sitting under the shade of beautiful trees in a local green park. (More on his important work in another entry!)
We made plans to connect again later in the evening at his office and then for dinner. This left me to experience Delhi on my own for much of the day. I had made a tentative, very loose plan to possibly connect for some afternoon touring with Julia, a fellow traveller originally from Poland who I met at Bed and Chai.
Limited communication abilities (she could only get in touch when she had wifi) left this very up in the air. I ventured along the quiet streets (and sidewalks!!) and came upon the Market area. I always picture an outdoor flea-market of sorts when I hear the word âmarketâ but Iâve come to learn that it often just refers to an area filled with stores.
This one was totally upscale, filled with corporate chains. It was fun to check out the clothes and shopping habits of the locals, but I knew I wanted something more âDelhiâ to eat and set out on an adventure out of the neighbourhood.
The Lotus Temple, New Delhi
Greener than you think
As I sat in my rickshaw, the message arrived from Julia that she would be near Bara Gumbad tomb in Lodi Gardens at around 3 pm. Park? Perfect! Exactly what was on my list to do. And so I got dropped off nearby and entered the fabulous green oasis. It’s a whole other story about the rickshaw negotiations.
A vast, gorgeous park, dotted with families, couples and individuals playing, reading and picnicking. It is also filled with remarkable 15th-century ruins including the impressive Bari Gumbad tomb and mosque. Tons of beautiful birds and butterflies!
Part of what I loved the most that was within the hour our loose, unconfirmed plan came together, reminding me of the pre-cellphone-era when life could still work out just fine. Julia and I spent the next few hours enjoying some Dahi Sev Puri snacks and a pleasurable, unchaotic Delhi.
Lodhi Garden
The Metro
Time to catch my first Metro ride! I descended the shiny, clean stairs into the polished, well-signed station. Immediately noticing it was way cleaner, easier to use and much less chaotic than our treasured NYC MTA subway system. Again, not the crazy Delhi I expected!
I easily purchased a âsmart cardâ and headed for the âwomen onlyâ section where I enjoyed the full-on air conditioning, the cleanliness and smooth ride. A full scene of street food nibbling and general hanging-out seemed to be taking place outside the Malviya Nagar station. A communal scene Iâd love to see in the streets and public space of NYC.
While walking to his office, I finally saw my first cows of Delhi. This was one of the things that struck me the most. I hadnât seen cows yet. No mounds of cow dung. No goats. None of the usual craziness I had been experiencing in all of the other cities I had seen (which Iâve also grown to be quite endeared by).
We spent some time at my friend’s office and then took the Metro towards India Gate where we enjoyed a long walk to the Canteen to eat a delicious Thali dinner, again passing endless amounts of open green space.
Metro leaving Karol Bagh station (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)
Old Delhi
Time to experience Old Delhi and the craziness! Julia and I ventured out the next morning to see some of the major sights and to meander the markets, nibble the street food and sense the chaos weâd heard so much about. We were NOT let down. It is quite intenseâintoxicatingly so! And in a fabulous way if you’re not staying in a noisy hostel right in the middle of it all.
We loved the tranquillity of the Jama Masjid Mosque (especially the sound and view from atop the minaret), the delicious meal at Karimâs (the Mughlai restaurant thatâs been around since 1913), and the market teeming with goats (perhaps because it was right before a Muslim holiday), and the spice market â dang, did we love the action and beauty of the spice market.
Getting from place to place in Old Delhi though can be maddening given the abundance of people, rickshaws, bicycles, peddlersâ carts and basically anything else you can imagine. I can definitely see why people lose their minds here.
After walking in the brutal heat for quite some time, we loved our cycle-rickshaw ride which took us through it all, at a perfect pace to catch a bit of a breeze and to feel the pulse of the craziness just enough to be entranced by it.
I shamelessly now crave more time in the âchaosâ and canât wait for my next Delhi visit to dive back in. I believe the key is being open-minded, not-rushed, well-hydrated, patient and curious about individual stories, the complex systems and general functioning of the city.
Many tourists pass through for a quick stressful visit and spread disdain for a city and its people they havenât fully met.
Walking past the bustling crowd (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)
More Greenery and deer park
More green space! We enjoyed checking out Humayunâs Tomb, another set of impressive 16th-century ruins surrounded by plush gardens. Then we sampled some flavours from all around India at the renowned Delhi Haat. My first momos in India.
Even more green space! And perhaps my favourites â the adjacent Defavouriteseen Parks. With another loose plan to connect with Julia in the trendy Hauz Khas village artists enclave for dinner, I ventured out to Deer Park, frisbee in hand, to check out the sprawling green space with more ruins/tombs and with a well-stocked deer enclosure.
I had heard from a few folks that this was the âCentral Parkâ of Delhi and it sure was. The post-work crowd was running, stretching, roller-skating, making music and enjoying the fresh air, cool ruins and pretty lake every which way you can imagine. My only regret was not arriving earlier.
The sun would soon set so I worked my way around the beautiful lake. I was struck by the awesome Lodi-era tombs and eye-catching ruins populated by a young, hip crowd. After a bit of a maze, I finally found my way up into the Haus Khaz village, magically connected with Julia again (neither of us had cell service, nor did we have a concrete plan).
We then meandered the quaint artist boutiques and enjoyed an absolutely delicious South Indian dinner. The most tasty sambhar imaginable – still dreaming about the perfect balance of tamarind and spice.
Sheesh Gumbad tomb in the Lodhi Gardens (Photo Credit – Mary W Shelley)
Overall
Delhi â you took me by surprise! I like you! And am ready to come back again. When I returned after my visit to Agra and Orchha, I stayed in Saket. It’s another quiet neighbourhood with tree-lined streets and lots of character. I also remember passing yet another great green space, nestled in between the windy highway exit ramps as my bus approached the (chaotic!) station.
Donât get me wrong here, Iâm not suggesting you are the ideal âgreenâ or “socially just” city. Far from it. I canât wait to write some pieces of trash and plastic. And I can’t wait to get riled when I explore more of East Delhi to get a better sense of the disparity and how people live.
From what I’ve seen in my limited experience as a traveller, you are certainly greener and more open than Iâd have ever expected! Especially given the endless complaining I hear from fellow travellers and Indians from around the country.
I know you have quite a lot of people to manage and lots of unnecessary trash to deal with. But I must say youâre off to a decent start with some of your open park space and your clean, easy-to-use Metro system. Iâm excited to explore more of you as a City and am sad for the many tourists who only see Paharganj and get scared away.
Thank you, Delhi, India Someday and You Wander We Pay!
”We will be visiting the Bike Temple on the way” said our driver.
“What temple?” I responded, shocked. I thought I had heard the temple. My faith in my ability to pay attention, even when I was sleepy was restored. It had been a long and comfortable drive since our last halt at the temple in Ranakpur, I could be forgiven for falling asleep. However, since the minute I’d heard of the ‘Bike Temple’ I wanted to know more.
Ranakpur Jain Temple (Photo Credit – Ninara)
Religious Temples
India in general is a very religious country; you will find a lot of pretty temples, mosques and churches. Some of the most beautiful sites in the country are somehow connected to religion. Majority of India’s population is Hindu, and Hindus believe in a lot of Gods (every deity being a form of the original holy triumvirate that Hinduism is based upon).
I knew of the Tirupathi Temple in Andhra Pradesh, where people (men) shave their heads (hair is considered as a sign of pride, shaving your head would mean giving up on pride for God). I’ve also heard of the rat temple (Jaipur and Bikaner), the monkey temple (Jaipur and Hampi). But, I would never have imagined that I’d be visiting a temple devoted to a bike; a Royal Enfield to be precise.
Monkey Temple (Photo Credit – Koen)
Highway Tales
I have always been intrigued by highways; the bike temple had promised to be what I had hoped for at the start of the journey but forgotten about in the process of travelling. I was going to visit a temple, which was in its own way a highway legend; a story that I would go back and share with my friends. The mention of the bike temple had done just that.
I learnt that the official name of the bike temple was Om Banna (the name of the bike’s owner). It is also known as Bullet Banna or Bike Banna (Banna is generally a term used to address a person of the male gender in Rajasthan). Our driver confirmed the story that the bike was owned by an Om Singh Rathore.
A bullet enthusiast, he was travelling from Bangdi; a small town near Sanderao in the Pali district to Chotil, when he met with an accident and rammed his bike into a tree. The impact killed him instantly and the bike fell into a ditch closeby.
The police took the motorbike to the police station the next day only to find out a few hours later that the bike had disappeared and somehow magically appeared at the spot of the accident. The police are reported to have tried various things to keep the bike from disappearing; like emptying the fuel from the petrol tank, locking the bike in chains, but only to find the bike again magically reappear at the accident spot.
Temple Om Banna Inde (Photo Credit – Jonathan Laroche)
The Bike Temple
The locals started to consider this a miracle and advised the police to leave the bike at the accident spot. They built a temple around the bike which is now popularly known as the âBullet Babaâs templeâ.
Almost all drivers who know of this story, make a stop at the shrine to pay their respect to the helpful spirit, it is believed that a driver who does not visit the temple is in for a dangerous journey.
Like all other temples in the country, a lot of people offer incense sticks, flowers, coconut and a red thread when they visit. There is one more thing I noticed the people offer here. Alcohol! Alcohol is considered a taboo in Hinduism, and India, in general, does not have a drinking culture. Even though there is no restriction on drinking, Alcohol and Religion donât go hand in hand. It was odd to see people offer alcohol at the shrine.
This was one place I had not seen coming, I wasnât even sure a place like this would even exist. But what an experience it was! For the rest of my journey to Jodhpur, I couldnât stop thinking about the bike temple, and the Bike God that had watched over me the time I was on the highway.
Bullet Baba temple aka the famous Bike temple (Photo Credits – TripAdvisor)
