Dreaded Delhi – Greener Than You Think

Posted on October 23, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

From divine desert dunes to sacred lakes and simple village life, I’ve been feeling the India pulse and loving it. My India Someday – You Wander We Pay itinerary has been chock full of varied landscapes and city scenes. I can’t lie though – sometimes the cacophony of the cities makes me lose my mind.

Horn honking seems to be the official sound of this country. It’s accompanied by the loud rumbles of autorickshaws travelling in every direction, with visible exhaust blowing out the back.

I always knew Delhi was on my itinerary but was sort of in denial about it. I had been warned extensively about the dirt, chaos and general craziness. Several fellow travellers shared awful stories of Delhi-induced travel fighting.

My next stop would be Delhi and boy, was I dreading it. I even let friends back home know I’d finally have some more time to catch up and to get some writing done. I thought I’d hate Delhi so much and never want to leave my lodgings!

Crazy traffic in Delhi

The train journey

My train (I love my train rides!) from charming Pushkar (well, Ajmer actually) arrived Delhi close to midnight. I was sitting next to some fun young women, (and some drunk men!). They live in Delhi and were coming from a 10-year reunion from their boarding school.

These professionals who run their own businesses or work for internet companies warned me to never trust rickshaws, never take regular taxis. Be careful on the metro, and basically fear all men in the city – essentially confirming many rumblings I’ve heard before. What an awful place this sounded like.

Exiting the train, I was bombarded by all sorts of chaos. Primarily rickshaw and taxi drivers harassing me as I tried to find my way to the pre-paid taxi booth. I negotiated with one and we got on our way, though not without some trepidation on my part.

Using a map on my phone, I followed along. I also had the driver speak to someone at the guesthouse where I’d be staying. This is a recommended measure to confirm the driver knows where to go and also knows someone is waiting for me!

The view outside the train window (Photo Credit – Moneycontrol)

My first impression

Granted it was midnight and much of the city was at rest, but I was still quite surprised by the relatively traffic-free, smooth, well-maintained highways and roads. No cows or goats or camels in sight! As we approached some of the smaller streets, I noticed they were absolutely quiet. I might actually use the word peaceful.

They were tree-lined and I even spotted some sidewalks. We were in the neighbourhood of GK-1 (Greater Kalish) in South Delhi which I now understand is DRASTICALLY different from Old Delhi. Particularly, the Paharganj neighbourhood where many backpackers stay. (and get a bit batty from the madness, dirt and chaos!)

Thank you, India Someday! Thank you, You Wander We Pay! You booked me a charming room in a quiet neighbourhood with several parks nearby. Plenty of shopping options, lots of food choices and a nearby Metro stop.

This is absolutely the right thing to do – to ease into Delhi life by staying in the newer, quieter areas. Shame on the many guidebooks for not advising this. There are plenty of accommodations for the full array of budgets, from dorm-style hostels to boutique and business hotels.

Some may shun the idea of staying in a more upscale neighbourhood, wanting to stay where the “action” and “real life” is, but recognizing my privilege as a traveller and writer I personally am keen on experiencing all a city has to offer. The new and the old, the wealthy and the poor, the restaurants and the street food, the clean air and the smog!

There are way too many travellers out there hating on Delhi, never having left the Paharganj neighbourhood to clear their heads. Experience the disparity and see the actual city they judge by just one area (more on the dynamics and distinctions of touring/travelling/living in another post soon!)

A calmer side of Delhi (Photo Credit – sach1tb, Flickr)

Day one

My first plan of the day was to meet a friend’s friend who does some awesome community organizing work in India. He met me at Bed and Chai (where I was staying), and after a 3-minute walk, we were sitting under the shade of beautiful trees in a local green park. (More on his important work in another entry!)

We made plans to connect again later in the evening at his office and then for dinner. This left me to experience Delhi on my own for much of the day. I had made a tentative, very loose plan to possibly connect for some afternoon touring with Julia, a fellow traveller originally from Poland who I met at Bed and Chai.

Limited communication abilities (she could only get in touch when she had wifi) left this very up in the air. I ventured along the quiet streets (and sidewalks!!) and came upon the Market area. I always picture an outdoor flea-market of sorts when I hear the word “market” but I’ve come to learn that it often just refers to an area filled with stores.

This one was totally upscale, filled with corporate chains. It was fun to check out the clothes and shopping habits of the locals, but I knew I wanted something more “Delhi” to eat and set out on an adventure out of the neighbourhood.

The Lotus Temple, New Delhi

Greener than you think

As I sat in my rickshaw, the message arrived from Julia that she would be near Bara Gumbad tomb in Lodi Gardens at around 3 pm. Park? Perfect! Exactly what was on my list to do. And so I got dropped off nearby and entered the fabulous green oasis. It’s a whole other story about the rickshaw negotiations.

A vast, gorgeous park, dotted with families, couples and individuals playing, reading and picnicking. It is also filled with remarkable 15th-century ruins including the impressive Bari Gumbad tomb and mosque. Tons of beautiful birds and butterflies!

Part of what I loved the most that was within the hour our loose, unconfirmed plan came together, reminding me of the pre-cellphone-era when life could still work out just fine. Julia and I spent the next few hours enjoying some Dahi Sev Puri snacks and a pleasurable, unchaotic Delhi.

Lodhi Garden

The Metro

Time to catch my first Metro ride! I descended the shiny, clean stairs into the polished, well-signed station. Immediately noticing it was way cleaner, easier to use and much less chaotic than our treasured NYC MTA subway system. Again, not the crazy Delhi I expected!

I easily purchased a “smart card” and headed for the “women only” section where I enjoyed the full-on air conditioning, the cleanliness and smooth ride. A full scene of street food nibbling and general hanging-out seemed to be taking place outside the Malviya Nagar station. A communal scene I’d love to see in the streets and public space of NYC.

While walking to his office, I finally saw my first cows of Delhi. This was one of the things that struck me the most. I hadn’t seen cows yet. No mounds of cow dung. No goats. None of the usual craziness I had been experiencing in all of the other cities I had seen (which I’ve also grown to be quite endeared by).

We spent some time at my friend’s office and then took the Metro towards India Gate where we enjoyed a long walk to the Canteen to eat a delicious Thali dinner, again passing endless amounts of open green space.

Metro leaving Karol Bagh station (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)

Old Delhi

Time to experience Old Delhi and the craziness! Julia and I ventured out the next morning to see some of the major sights and to meander the markets, nibble the street food and sense the chaos we’d heard so much about. We were NOT let down. It is quite intense–intoxicatingly so! And in a fabulous way if you’re not staying in a noisy hostel right in the middle of it all.

We loved the tranquillity of the Jama Masjid Mosque (especially the sound and view from atop the minaret), the delicious meal at Karim’s (the Mughlai restaurant that’s been around since 1913), and the market teeming with goats (perhaps because it was right before a Muslim holiday), and the spice market – dang, did we love the action and beauty of the spice market.

Getting from place to place in Old Delhi though can be maddening given the abundance of people, rickshaws, bicycles, peddlers’ carts and basically anything else you can imagine. I can definitely see why people lose their minds here.

After walking in the brutal heat for quite some time, we loved our cycle-rickshaw ride which took us through it all, at a perfect pace to catch a bit of a breeze and to feel the pulse of the craziness just enough to be entranced by it.

I shamelessly now crave more time in the “chaos” and can’t wait for my next Delhi visit to dive back in. I believe the key is being open-minded, not-rushed, well-hydrated, patient and curious about individual stories, the complex systems and general functioning of the city.

Many tourists pass through for a quick stressful visit and spread disdain for a city and its people they haven’t fully met.

Walking past the bustling crowd (Photo Credit – Yusuke Kawasaki)

More Greenery and deer park

More green space! We enjoyed checking out Humayun’s Tomb, another set of impressive 16th-century ruins surrounded by plush gardens. Then we sampled some flavours from all around India at the renowned Delhi Haat. My first momos in India.

Even more green space! And perhaps my favourites – the adjacent Defavouriteseen Parks. With another loose plan to connect with Julia in the trendy Hauz Khas village artists enclave for dinner, I ventured out to Deer Park, frisbee in hand, to check out the sprawling green space with more ruins/tombs and with a well-stocked deer enclosure.

I had heard from a few folks that this was the “Central Park” of Delhi and it sure was. The post-work crowd was running, stretching, roller-skating, making music and enjoying the fresh air, cool ruins and pretty lake every which way you can imagine. My only regret was not arriving earlier.

The sun would soon set so I worked my way around the beautiful lake. I was struck by the awesome Lodi-era tombs and eye-catching ruins populated by a young, hip crowd. After a bit of a maze, I finally found my way up into the Haus Khaz village, magically connected with Julia again (neither of us had cell service, nor did we have a concrete plan).

We then meandered the quaint artist boutiques and enjoyed an absolutely delicious South Indian dinner. The most tasty sambhar imaginable – still dreaming about the perfect balance of tamarind and spice.

Sheesh Gumbad tomb in the Lodhi Gardens (Photo Credit – Mary W Shelley)

Overall

Delhi – you took me by surprise! I like you! And am ready to come back again. When I returned after my visit to Agra and Orchha, I stayed in Saket. It’s another quiet neighbourhood with tree-lined streets and lots of character. I also remember passing yet another great green space, nestled in between the windy highway exit ramps as my bus approached the (chaotic!) station.

Don’t get me wrong here, I’m not suggesting you are the ideal “green” or “socially just” city. Far from it. I can’t wait to write some pieces of trash and plastic. And I can’t wait to get riled when I explore more of East Delhi to get a better sense of the disparity and how people live.

From what I’ve seen in my limited experience as a traveller, you are certainly greener and more open than I’d have ever expected! Especially given the endless complaining I hear from fellow travellers and Indians from around the country.

I know you have quite a lot of people to manage and lots of unnecessary trash to deal with. But I must say you’re off to a decent start with some of your open park space and your clean, easy-to-use Metro system. I’m excited to explore more of you as a City and am sad for the many tourists who only see Paharganj and get scared away.

Thank you, Delhi, India Someday and You Wander We Pay!

Namaste!

Udaipur – Janmashtami Celebrations & Indian Hospitality

Posted on September 12, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

It seems like every day is some type of holiday or festival here in India. From Jain holidays to Krishna celebrations, festivities abound. Many Jain folks fast for 8 days before this.

Jagdish Temple, Janmashtami

Just when I thought I had a full Janmashtami experience at the community celebration in Ahmedabad, I immediately got a sense that the Jagdish Temple festivities in Udaipur would be quite a wonder. And I sure was right. There were colourfully dressed men, women, and children. With amplified music, the clay pot dangling up above the public square, shiny streamers, and lights. It was a buzz of festival-like energy that was constant.

I was told that after 06:00 PM, the festivities would really get started. They would end by around 08:15 PM or whenever the pyramid of boys grew tall enough to knock the clay pot of yoghurt down.

Jagdish Temple, Janmashtami

I made my way over at around 7:00/7:30 and joined the dense crowd of spectators. I wish I could have somehow made it to one of the many balconies overflowing with onlookers. Instead, I found myself a spot where the visibility wasn’t bad and there was some room for breathing. That changed pretty quickly! I rarely go deep into tightly crowded spaces unless I feel I have a very clear path to exit. But this seemed like a pretty special opportunity, and I decided to stick it out.

I was able to hold my camera up high and snap some good shots. I’d been warned about unwanted gropes. Accordingly, I had purposely placed myself near women to avoid any unwanted situation.

The crowds roared with enthusiasm! The catchy music played loudly, and there was lots of call and response. It was similar to the community celebration in the Ahmedabad slum.

Check out these videos I took:

https://youtu.be/QYoYNrZknfE

https://youtu.be/3EVyObRmsuo

The crowd in the lanes of Udaipur leading up to Jagdish Temple during Janmashtami

The Finale!

The boys made pyramids that grew taller and taller and the crowd got tighter and tighter. It was still nowhere near the clay pot. It was exhilarating to join in the excitement. Yet still, anxiety-provoking to be in the increasingly crowded audience. Not to mention the sweat literally dripping from my body.

I would think it was as cramped as humanly possible. And then dozens of more people would push their way towards me from both sides. I loved the experience though was horrified at the same time. I finally retreated, recognizing how much longer it would take. Plus, I had exciting dinner plans with a friend, of my New York friend, Aditi. I was so grateful to her for the connections she made for me.

I finally pushed and squeezed my way out of the crowds (not an easy feat), and enjoyed another vantage point from the distance.

A human pyramid being made to break the pot of yoghurt that is at the top

I worked my way through the maze of crooked streets and headed to Jaiwana Haveli to meet Aditi’s friend Yash. His family has been living there for generations. His family also runs a beautiful hotel with stunning views overlooking the lake and the palace. We met up on the roof and enjoyed a refreshing Kingfisher, some decent conversation and yet another scrumptious meal, the highlight of which was the Chilli Paneer.

Ramblinarium – Jaiwana Haveli, Udaipur

I walked myself back to Madri Haveli through the windy maze. Along the way, I was excited for a much-needed shower and rinsing of my sweat-filled clothes. I learned later that it took the boys 40 tries to make a pyramid tall enough to reach the clay pot. So glad I left when I did!

Super thankful for the A/C in my room, I slumbered well and woke to yet another delicious breakfast! This time enjoyed it with Rajesh and Shankar Singh Charan, manager of the Madri Haveli. I went to check out Rajesh’s impressive gallery and was picked up there for my next adventure – the Krishna Ranch.

Loving India. Loving life.

Thank you, India Someday.

Thank you, You Wander We Pay.

Namaste.

When we tell people that we spent two months in India with our children

Posted on August 15, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Two months in India with three little children! Wow!

Sarah and her husband from Canada are travelling with their children aged 12, 10, and 5 for a year across Europe and Asia. They used our help to plan parts of their India trip and are guest authors for a series of blogs on travelling in India with children.

When we tell people that we spent two months in India with our children, they generally have two responses. The first is “and how was THAT?” And then there is a barrage of questions about sickness, filth, food contamination, drinkable water, diarrhoea, bugs, etc. And it turns out that we weren’t sick, not even once. Actually, much to my dismay, I put on a bit of weight!!!

Enjoying the countryside in Kerala

The second thing people say is, “wow, two months! You must have seen the WHOLE country!” Again, totally wrong. In two months of travelling around, spending no more than a week in most places and sometimes just a few days, we saw a fraction of what India has to offer.

India is so large and so diverse, is a world in and of itself. There are a huge variety of climates and ecosystems all within one country. As you travel from one location to another, the scenery and temperature will change drastically. The language also changes.

Being unable to understand Hindi, I could no better understand Punjabi, Tamil or any of the hundreds of other languages spoken in India and felt grateful for the English that people would communicate to me in. The food was different depending on what part of India you were in – and although you could find dosas, for example, in both the South and North of India, the food and its flavour were directly related to the part of the country it came from.

We arrived in Mumbai in early January of 2015 and travelled over to Aurangabad to see the amazing caves of Ellora and Ajanta. We then travelled South to the sanctuary of Hampi. From there we crossed over to the beaches of Goa and made our way South to Kochi and the backwaters and beaches of Kerala. We then escaped the heat and flew North to Delhi and headed to the spiritual city of Rishikesh.

Stunning Ellora Caves in Aurangabad

We visited Hampi

After taking in what we could of the International Yoga Festival, we headed up to a hilltown on the edge of the Himalayas called Mussorie and enjoyed amazing views and cold weather. We made our way back to Delhi by train and did a quick one day trip to Taj Mahal and then flew out. Two months on the move and that was what we saw! Yes, it was a lot and it was also nothing, all at once.

View of the Chaukhamba Looms from Mussoorie (Photo Credit – Paul Hamilton)

We loved the country and plan to come back. You would be hard-pressed to find nicer and more friendly people anywhere. Next on our list is the south-east, French-influenced side of the country to enjoy Pondicherry and all around. We would also love to head up to Rajasthan and see the magical North that we have heard so much about. I would like to hit the lesser-populated, but hippy vibe beaches of Karnataka too. And of course, I would head back to Hampi – just because this little piece of heaven exists on Earth!

Other blogs by Sarah and Gregor

The serene beaches of Goa!

Negotiating Auto Rickshaw Prices in India

Posted on August 8, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Magdalen and Brian were our first guests from Pakistan (albeit, Americans living in Pakistan). They’ve shared some very useful tips on negotiating auto rickshaw prices in India, and allowed us to pass along the wisdom. Their original post and many of their adventures can be read on their blog.

While we are by no means experts in this topic, it is a piece of wisdom we want to pass along to other travellers for their adventures in India. While every city is different, many of them offer a variety of different transportation options, and it is quite easy to end up overpaying for such services.

This post is about the auto, tuk-tuk, auto rickshaw… whatever it may be called, where you currently are. We will use ‘auto rickshaw’ or ‘rickshaw’ for this blog post. Under this same topic, but slightly different, we will also include the bike rickshaw. What we’re covering: Negotiating auto rickshaw prices in India, or simply put, how to figure out what to pay!

No doubt, you must have read in all of the travel blogs or guidebooks to agree on the price of the rickshaw before you get inside. In some cities, they even talk about metered rickshaws. Regardless of what you find when you arrive, here are some tips to help you understand auto rickshaws in India better.

From India Someday, here is a quick look at some travel routes for North India and for South India. Get in touch, and we would love to discuss your trip to India.

Unlimited Seating! An Autorickshaw in India
http://www.dailytravelphotos.com/

1) Negotiate. In India, it is your birthright!

Yes, it can feel strange at first, but do it! You will walk up to the driver & say “how much to go to X location”. They will tell you to get in without giving you a rate. Ask again, and they will respond with a number that they are very confident in. Be warned, this is usually higher than any local would think of paying. Negotiate your way lower. Sometimes we started with a quote of INR 250 and were able to talk them down to INR 20-40. Just be firm and polite. It’s also okay to walk away after you start negotiating auto rickshaw prices in India; you are not bound to the ride.

Negotiate with the driver

2) Ask a Local

Before we’d leave the train car, we’d turn to the person next to us and ask, “What is the local rate for rickshaws in this city?” Usually, we were able to find out an appropriate price quite easily (though of course sometimes they would tell us numbers above what we knew to be true). We also asked police officers and folks at the front desk of the hotels/hostels we were staying at. Sometimes they wanted to ask us where we were going and tried to help coach us – but usually we were able to find a good price point to be aware of. At times, we would ask two people and get very different numbers, like INR 40 and INR 200, for example. Go with the smaller number in mind when you negotiate.

Here is a detailed article to understand the cost of travel in India.

(Photo Credit – Francisco Anzola)

3) Location, Location, Location!

This is true for so many things in life! When you’re staying at a fancy hotel (or standing in front of one), and you ask the nearest rickshaw for a ride, the price will be higher! If, however, you walk away from that fancy hotel, onto the main road (maybe you’d have to walk 200-300 meters) often you will be able to strike a better bargain (the difference between INR 250 and INR 40, for example). This also applies for right in front of the train station & tourist attractions. Know the nearest intersection to your hotel and give that instead of the hotel name for the rickshaw ride back. This is an easy way to get the upper hand in negotiating auto rickshaw prices in India.

(Photo Credit – Fabrice Florin)

4) Don’t be afraid to walk away

It is not uncommon for you to approach one driver, and instantly be mobbed by 2 to 10 other drivers, all trying to understand you mispronounce the name of a tomb, hotel or monument. Know that you are, in that moment, negotiating with all of them – but, it is also okay to walk away. Time and time again we would ask how much to go to a certain location, get an outrageous price, then we’d quote something much less. The drivers would come down some bit, but we were still not happy, so we’d walk away. Right at that moment, they would offer a somewhat reasonable rate. Or they don’t & you just walk away to find the next rickshaw.

You can take any rickshaw from Rickshaw stand (Photo Credit – Joegoauk Goa)

5) Be confident, just sit in a Tuk Tuk and ride!

Sometimes, we just hopped on the rickshaw, told them where we wanted to go and gave them the local fare without a problem when we hopped off. However, we did this when we were quite confident of the local rate and we were not standing in front of a fancy hotel. No promises that this works all the time – but it did work for us a couple of times. We also didn’t really stick around to discuss things with the driver- we just paid and walked away.

Tipping a rickshaw driver: There is no need to tip on a single ride. If you hire a rickshaw for the day we suggest tipping a small amount, as long as you don’t buy anything at any of the shops the rickshaw driver took you to. Do not buy anything at any shop your driver takes you to, he is most likely getting a commission and the prices will be inflated to cover his cut (plus some).

A quick note on the bike-rickshaw – We rode them a few times. They’re bumpy, slower than the autos, and difficult for tall people to sit in, but great for the environment. That said, they are totally safe & somewhat fun. They are supposed to be fix-priced: when we talked with other tourists we found they usually paid INR 10 per person (sometimes INR 20 if you’re traveling alone). We never got the prices down that far, but we preferred the smoother ride of the auto rickshaws so we usually steered clear of them.

A quick note on safety – While I’m sure there are horror stories out there about using rickshaws, we have ridden rickshaws in several countries and had no problems at all. We’ve ridden them early in the morning (before sunrise), throughout the day, and late into the evening. We’ve ‘rented’ a rickshaw for the day & hired them for partial days too. All with no major problems. But, as with anything, you should be careful and mindful of yourself, your surroundings, and your belongings.

Bottom-line, remember that the rickshaw drivers are just trying to make a living in order to feed their families. You, however, are trying to save money to travel more. Sometimes we would negotiate to INR 80 (from INR 250) and would give the driver INR 100 anyway. We hope these tips on negotiating auto rickshaw prices in India have made you confident for your Indian adventure! Click on Plan Your Trip for your ideal itinerary.

Be confident, while riding a rickshaw too (Photo Credit – Curtis Palmer)

Best City to Fly into India

Posted on July 16, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Looking at travelling to India but not sure about the flights to India? which is the best city to fly into India? Our blog should give you an overview of the best cities to fly into India depending on which region you’d like to explore.

You can also explore our popular North India and South India travel routes.

Time to book your flights to India (Photo Credit – Jan Vašek)

Touring North India? Fly into Delhi, but explore flights into Bombay

When planning a trip to a country as huge as India, the most frequent question that we get is which is the best city to fly into India?

If you plan to visit Rajasthan, Varanasi, or travel to the Himalayas (Kashmir, Leh and Ladakh or Himachal Pradesh) then the best city to fly in to is Delhi. Most international flights to India fly into Delhi.

On the other hand, if you’re thinking of touring around Rajasthan, do explore open-jaw flights to India. For example, fly into Delhi and fly out of Mumbai (or the other way around).

Delhi and Mumbai are very contrasting experiences, definitely worth including both in your list of places to visit in India. Delhi has some splendid monuments and great history. Mumbai (especially the southern end) is very easy to walk around, and has a spirit which will simply engulf you.
Udaipur (Southern Rajasthan) is equidistant from Delhi and Mumbai. Hence, if you are looking at touring across Rajasthan you can fly into Mumbai and then travel to Udaipur and travel across Rajasthan. It can also be done the other way around; visit Rajasthan and end your trip in Mumbai after Udaipur.
Gujarat is another interesting and not a very touristy state. It is convenient to reach both on the way from Rajasthan to Mumbai or a stop on the way from Mumbai to Rajasthan.

Here are some great travel routes in North India if in need of inspiration.

Useful Tip:

A number of our guests from USA choose to fly on Air India (AI 102), as they operate a direct flight from New York (JFK) to Delhi, and Delhi to New York (JFK). Air India has a very good network of domestic flights in India too, so irrespective of where your trip ends in India, it connects you back to your Delhi-JFK return flight via an internal Air India flight.

Discover More: Tips for US travelers to India

Bandra-Worli Sea Link (Photo Credit – Rajiv)

Touring Northeast India? Fly into Kolkata, Explore flights to Delhi

Visiting the Northeast, you have to ask yourself, are you planning to visit only the Northeast (cities like Kolkata, Varanasi, Darjeeling, Assam, Sikkim, etc.) or do you plan to spend some time there and then make your way westwards?

An interesting tour plan would be working your way from Delhi along places on the river Ganges i.e. Gwalior, Orchha, Khajuraho, Varanasi and then ending your trip with time in Darjeeling or Sikkim. Flying into Delhi and out of Kolkata would be a great option for such a tour.

You could also do this tour the other way around by flying into Kolkata and end in Delhi.

If you plan to explore the more remote Indian states of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram, Meghalaya, Tripura, Nagaland and Sikkim then the best city to fly into India would be Kolkata. However, if international flights into Kolkata are very expensive you can also look at flying into Delhi and then taking an internal flight.

The Northeast is a unique and beautiful place to visit, so check these reasons why it would be a memorable trip!

Visit the tea Gardens in the beautiful Darjeeling, you won’t regret the peaceful nature here (Photo Credit -Boudhayan Bardhan)

Holidaying in Goa, and South India?

If you are looking primarily at a beach holiday and spending most of your time in Goa then the best city to fly into India would be Mumbai or Goa and explore Bengaluru.

There are over ten daily and inexpensive flights from Mumbai to Goa. Daily trains and buses too (for more information read getting from Mumbai to Goa).
If you are lucky you will find direct flights to Goa too! These are usually operational only during the winter months and common from Europe/Russia. Just explore and research in terms of flight connections.
Bengaluru may seem far from Goa, but it’s well connected by daily and inexpensive flights. You can also look at flying out of Bengaluru and touring across the state of Karnataka by road as you make your way from Goa (Goa-Hampi-Mysore-Bengaluru).
Avoid looking at flights into Delhi, unless you also plan to visit the Taj Mahal or a little of Rajasthan. There are only a couple of daily flights from Delhi to Goa and they can get quite expensive.

Find Out More: Investigate the Ideal Time to Tour India

Looking at a South India Tour? Fly into Bengaluru, Chennai, or Kochi (if only visiting Kerala)

Looking at spending time across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala?

For the South Indian tour the best city to fly into India is Chennai or Bengaluru. When planning a South India tour we usually recommend starting with Karnataka or Tamil Nadu and ending your holiday in Kerala. Kerala is beautiful, relaxing, and provides great massages so all in all, an ideal way to end your journey through India.

You may want to explore looking at flights to Bengaluru/Chennai and out of Kochi or Trivandrum. However, if expensive, remember Kochi to Bengaluru/Chennai flights are frequent and inexpensive.
While Kochi and Trivandrum (cities in Kerala) seem close to each other on a map they are a four drive from each other. So if you plan to end your holiday on a beach in Kovalam/Varkala then Trivandrum would be a perfect choice. However, if you are keen on Mararikulam then Kochi would be the right choice. Moreover, a lot of other places of interest in Kerala are close to Kochi as well. You may wish to bear that in mind when booking flights.

Useful tip: Most middle east airlines i.e. Emirates, Etihad, and Qatar Airways have good connections in and out of airports in Kerala.

Explore Further: Ideal Time to Visit Kerala

At India Someday, we are avid travellers that specialize in assisting travellers plan their holiday to India. Whether it’s flights to India, getting around or accommodation, feel free to get in touch if you have more questions, or fill out our questionnaire to plan your trip accordingly.

Apart from the wonderful beaches, Kerala has so much to offer (Photo Credit – Elroy Serrao)

Tips to protect yourself from Fake Travel Service Providers

Posted on July 5, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Keeping yourself safe from Fraudsters

This is a guest article which was contributed by our friend Rajesh who is an author and publisher for Gurdial Taxi Services. He loves to share his travelling experiences and provides useful tips which can help you in making your travelling experience the most memorable. Follow them on Facebook to get more updates.

Travelling is fun, but the experience becomes memorable when you have the right travel service provider. Although there are a number of travel companies around you, choosing the one that suits your needs isn’t easy. A number of fraudsters will try to con you under the pretext of being travel service providers.

It is essential to take a break from your hectic schedule and take a vacation. This not only offers you a chance to explore new places, people and foods but also help you to rejuvenate your lives and relations.

“Travel brings power and love back into your life.” ~ Rumi

So if you’re planning to travel, don’t delay it anymore. The first thing that strikes your mind is hiring a travel agent or at least getting some professional consultation. Well, it is an extremely important decision, as you need professional help to make your trip memorable.

But are all the travel companies reliable? Can you hire anyone without doing at least an online background check? NO! With a few trustworthy travel service providers, there are also some fake companies. While these companies will entice you with dreamy thoughts, they will burn a hole in your pockets too.

Don’t let them fool you, and before making a decision, keep a check on the following things:

Find your adventure

Certification

This is the best tool to guess the quality of service provided by the travel company. Nowadays, there are a number of certifications for which travel companies can apply, but they get the certificate by only fulfilling the necessary requirements. Also, they need to maintain the quality standard throughout to own the certificate. If you are travelling with them for the first time, make sure to check their certifications beforehand.

Some of the major standardized certifications are from associations like ISO (International Organization Standardization), TAFI (Travel Agents Federation of India), TAAI (Travel Agents Association of India), IATO (Indian Association of Tour Operators) and ADTOI (Association of Adventure Tour Operators of India).

Travel with a professional

Associates

You are out of your home and probably your country, new to the place, you can need anything, anywhere and anytime. Therefore, you need someone to help you in every situation. From the travel arrangements to accommodation and the delivery of the most scrumptious food, your travel company needs to be able to serve all your needs. This is possible only if they have a long list of reputed associates in different locations and have steadfast relations with them.

India Someday will have well-connected travel companies all over the country

Packages

You might be travelling alone, with your spouse, family or with a big gang of childhood friends. Everyone has a different requirement and a varying budget. It is difficult to put everyone in one frame. Therefore, make sure the travel service provider you are choosing is proffering a wide range of packages to serve all needs and budgets under one roof. Moreover, they should be a little flexible. For example, if you need a car for 2 days and 1 night, they should make the arrangements accordingly, rather than insisting you to stay for the next night.

Backpacker in India (Photo Credit: Pixabay)

Chauffeurs

Whether you are travelling for a day, a week or more, the driver of your taxi is someone with whom you need to spend a reasonable amount of time. Along the journey, he is the one responsible for your safety and security. You cannot take the risk of travelling with someone in the hills that is new to the turns and twists of the area. Hence, among all the things, don’t forget to look for the list of chauffeurs linked with the company. They must be licensed, insured and experienced. In addition, they should be friendly, punctual, well-mannered and polite.

The driver always wears a uniform of grey, blue, or khaki colour

Amenities

A number of companies serve you with varying packages and offers, and these depend on the companies’ policies. But there are a few basic facilities, which you can always look for. These include pick-up and drop-off facilities, 24×7 availability, emergency services, online or telephonic booking services and many others. If they are providing you with them, they are a superb choice!

Anytime assistance from your travel service provider is key

Travelling is a wonderful experience in itself. And having the right partner, i.e., the most reliable and proficient travel service provider, makes your trip outstanding and extraordinary!

Dealing With Touts in India

Posted on June 17, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Wondering how problematic it is to deal with touts in India? Picture this: you’re off on a trip to Delhi. The capital of India, a land of historic value and great energy, the kind of city that gets your heart pumping. Weeks, maybe even months of planning have finally reached their fruition. You have arrived. You can’t wait to explore Delhi and make this another memorable trip. But, the minute you step off the train, someone runs up to you, clings to your sleeve and smooth talks you out of your hard earned money. What a way to start the trip!

Sadly, this is an unfortunate aspect of travelling to India, the touts. They are people who will do anything to make a quick buck out of vulnerable first-time travellers. Those experienced can easily deal with it, usually learning from their mistakes or by reading up enough. The problem is, sometimes, no matter how much knowledge you may have, you can never be too prepared for these fraudsters. They’ll come at you from all sides, offering everything from hotels and taxis at ‘Cheap’ ‘Special’ or ‘Discount’ rates to hats, sweaters and keychains. Our guide on dealing with touts in India has come to the rescue; read up and laugh your anxieties away.

Heed the signs – Beware of touts in India (Photo Credits – sanjayausta.photoshelter.com)

Where do you find Touts in india?

You may think you will find touts only at crowded stations or monuments, but it’s much more widespread than that. A tout could be just about anybody, your taxi/ auto-rickshaw driver or your hotel manager. Anybody who is earning a commission or even a direct profit from getting you to part with your money is a tout.

You will find people trying to charge you extra for entrance at monuments, temples and mosques. The key is to avoid or ignore them, though your patience will be sorely tested. Their initial aim is for you to respond to them. Once done, they’ll dive straight into their sales pitch and bait you into buying something.

They will cling to you doggedly if you try to walk away. If you ignore them long enough, they’ll eventually turn their attention to somebody else. Make sure you buy your tickets at designated counters with prominent signs displaying entrance fees, and whenever possible try to dish out exact change. You would be surprised at how even the employees working for authorities like the railways or the bus services will try to short-change you.

If you take a cab or an auto-rickshaw from the railway station, a good chance is that the driver will tell you that your hotel is already fully booked or in some cases even shut down to try and entice you toward a ‘cheap’ hotel of his choice. Firmly tell them you’ve paid in advance, or call up the hotel and ask for a landmark. This is a common scam in India that you can easily get out of.

Always buy your ticket from the booking office

new Delhi

New Delhi is a city of warm, generous people who are very upset by their city’s reputation as a haven for touts. You will find a lot of people who genuinely want to help you without asking for anything in return. Thus, being too cautious might keep you from connecting with some truly lovely people.

A common scam is the train ticket scam at New Delhi. An official-looking person comes up to you, informing you that your train has been cancelled. Be careful when boarding a train from Delhi, your tickets are NOT cancelled, unless your tour operators tell you so! If anyone tries to tell you otherwise, just laugh them off and carry on with your journey. Always ring your tour operator to clear any doubts before giving in to this trick, as the solution offered by touts is buying a much more expensive train ticket.

New Delhi is full of bustle and charm, don’t let the touts ruin the experience (Photo Credit – Grant Matthews)

Pushkar

Pushkar is a holy city, home to a place of worship of great importance to Hindus. You’ll find the place packed with travellers. Both explorers and pilgrims making their way to ‘Tirth Raj’, the king of pilgrimage sites. The irony is that this land of goodness, godliness and devotion, has become a hotbed for mischief-makers.

The most common scam you will encounter is the form of paid blessings. Touts in India can indeed take on amusing disguises. When you wander across the town or the small lake, you will come across smiling priests (touts, yes that’s what they are, touts). They will ask you if you want to be blessed, after which they will pray for you, make you chant a few words and then demand outrageously large sums of money.

The best way to avoid them is to say upfront exactly how much you’re willing to pay (nothing more than INR 50-100) and then watch how they don’t want to give you ‘special blessings’ anymore.

Pushkar is gorgeous but notorious for ‘Priest’ touts (Photo Credit – Francisco Anzola, Flickr)

Agra

The land of the Taj Mahal draws in tourists from around the world and quick on their heels, the touts.

The touts in Agra have a very mind-blowing capacity for being irritating. Yes, all touts in India and over the world are irritating, but these guys are exceptionally good at pestering people. They will want to sell you little Taj Mahal replicas, ‘authentic’ pashmina shawls, and will tell you that your hotel or the Taj is far away and ask you to take the Tanga rickshaw (carriage) to a place that is quite literally 500 meters away.

The best way to deal with touts in Delhi, Agra or all over in India, in general, is to just ignore them, never run out of patience, and do a little bit of research about the place you are visiting. Just to reiterate, you will find a lot of genuinely helpful people who will help you. Indians are very welcoming people. Some might even help you negotiate with the touts!\

Explore More: Getting Acquainted with Things to do in India

Be firm with the touts around the Taj Mahal so you can truly appreciate its beauty in peace

We understand that no matter how much you read, dealing with touts in India can be intimidating. If you want to avoid a sticky situation, feel free to contact us!

The Cost of a Trip To India

Posted on April 15, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

India is a vast and beautiful country. There are numerous reasons why you should choose India as your next travel destination. But, by far, one of the better reasons is how budget-friendly and cheap it is. A flight from Europe or the Americas can get quite expensive but, if booked in advance you can save a sufficient amount of money!

However, regardless of the flight, once in India, delicious food, places to stay, and domestic travel are quite cheap so it makes for a great destination. Here’s a quick look at the cost of a trip to India. Additionally, India is the perfect place to travel in whatever style you enjoy.

From an economic budget backpacker in their 20’s to an avid traveller looking for the most luxurious stays in the world, India has something for everyone. By using our services, we can tailor your trip by taking your preferences and giving you the best possible ideas for a trip to India.

Here is a brief overview of the information that you could expect from the cost of a trip to India. We’ve included accommodation, food, travel, and any monument or museum fees. If you’re looking for a more detailed overview of the costs involved for a trip to India, read this.

Costs of different hotels, boutique or heritage, will depend heavily on the season and the city

what is the cost of a trip to India for a Budget Traveller

INR 3,200-3,800 (45-50 USD / 40-45 EUR per day, per person)

Backpackers, young adventurers, and those ready for the Indian experience at its peak, this is the approximate cost of a trip to India. Stay in backpackers’ hotel dorms or private rooms in cheap budget hotels. Prepare to travel in local buses and trains and treat yourself for the longest distance with a quick flight. Street food, cheaper restaurants, and sightseeing galore!

Backpacker in India (Photo Credit – Ibrahim-rifath)

Mid-range cost of a trip to India

INR 6,000-6,800 (85-90 USD / 70-80 EUR per day, per person)

Want to enjoy your holidays in style and comfort but without spending too much money? Look no further. If you compare to the budget traveller, adding 30 to 40 USD or EUR can really make a significant difference.

Stay at boutique hotels and nice homestays with charm. Pair the best classes of trains available with a domestic flight and a couple of hired car rides. Indulge in some of the fancier restaurants and do some activities like zip-lining, cooking, and beautiful mountain treks.

Delve Deeper: Uncover the Perfect Time for Your India Adventure

Feel welcome at a homestay as though it was your own – with local families, local food and local experience (Photo Credit – Aashray Homestay, bookings.com)

A high-end trip to India cost

INR 10,500-11,000 (140-145 USD / 125-130 EUR per day, per person)

If you enjoy luxury travel, you’ll love the options India has in store for you, especially in terms of hotels and resorts. While also cheap, India is the place to visit if you’re ready to spend to enjoy some of the best-serviced luxuries. Hence, in terms of hotels and resorts, there are a variety of options. You can fly your way to most places and travel in a comfortable, air-conditioned SUV. There are great gourmet dining options in all big cities and some smaller cities, so you won’t miss a thing.

If you’re looking for a more detailed version of the different costs in regards to travelling in India, here is a more in-depth analysis of the costs. If you decide to do it, let us know your preferences and we’ll customize it to suit your travel needs!

A breathtaking accommodation facility. Sitting in the midst of nature, brimming with luxury – Machan Treehouse Resort, Lonavala

Using different modes of travels in India with children

Posted on March 2, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

Gregory and Sarah from Canada are travelling with their children aged 12, 10 and 5 for a year across Europe and Asia. They used our help to plan parts of their India trip and are guests authors for a series of blogs on travelling in India with children.

Train travel in India with children

In India, there are many ways to get from point A to Z. We have been on two sleeper buses so far and one was newer and comfier (blankets and pillows) while one was well past its prime without these amenities. There was no toilet on either and so training kids on how to “nature pee” is not a bad idea. Our almost teenage daughter went from being mortified by peeing at the roadside, to just asking for the toilet paper and peeing near a garbage pile. I taught my son how to pee in a bottle, in cases, the driver seemed peeved at the suggestion of stopping YET again.

Carrying child-friendly snacks (chikki, sesame balls, bananas and oranges) is also helpful. As it’s a given that there is not always a great deal of choice at the pit stops. Earplugs are definitely a great idea. We also had a tablet with movies which were invaluable, because they won’t sleep the whole way. Why? The roads have many curves and speed bumps. Also, the drivers tend to be aggressive to get you to your destination. So, be prepared for some back and forth and side to side. Our 2 little ones, both clunked various parts of their anatomy on the shelves in the sleeper, when the driver slammed on the brake for a speed bump.

Paper and crayons, card games and the aforementioned tablet have saved our sanity on numerous occasions.

Trains

Resting in the AC lounge before the train

Our experiences travelling by train have been almost all positive. Our kids will forever remember buying numerous small cups of chai masala for 7 rupees each. There is room to sit comfortably and stow bags overhead and you can get up and walk around. Tickets are quite inexpensive and you can travel in an air-conditioned car if it is too hot otherwise.

A glimpse of an un-forgetful experience

We took a train from Mumbai to Aurangabad and I met a lovely engineer from Delhi taking his wife and two kids to see the caves. Their girls adopted our five-year-old and entertained her with their tablet. The food available was simple and reasonably priced and snacks and cold drinks came through the cabin with startling frequency. It is worth taking the kids into an “Indian toilet” to show them how to squat the first time they need to go as the “Western toilets” would require extensive sanitising before anybody would want to even contemplate sitting down.

The train delay!

We took one overnight train too and it was supposed to leave at 7:20 pm from Margao and arrive at 10:00 am in Ernakulam. Since it was coming from Delhi, it was delayed by 5 hours due to fog. There is a waiting room, but after our daughter injured herself sitting on a broken chair that fell and crushed her into the wall, we paid 25 rupees/person and moved into the AC waiting room, where the children were able to get comfortable and fall asleep. We had booked non-AC sleeper class to save $75 and this would have been fine, had we not had the delay. The fans kept us comfortable all through the night, but given that we were now arriving at 3 pm, we arrived boiled, baked and fried.

TUK-TUKS

Tuk Tuk in India

We also took a great number of tuk-tuks or rickshaws and they were really our preferred method of travel. They ranged from short 30 rupee rides to keep the kids cool around Kochi to an 800 rupee ride from Hampi to Hospet (all five of us with 5 big and 5 small backpacks). We were greeted with great enthusiasm and the breeze provided welcome relief from the heat.

In Aurangabad, we took a bigger jeep which was part of a tour company, to visit the Ajanta and Ellora caves. It was riveting to watch how the road, which never changed size, went from being two lanes to four. I really wouldn’t recommend renting a car on your own in most parts of India.

An Amusing fact!

It seems that people choose to honk as a substitute for following common sense or traffic rules: “Beep beep, I am passing on a corner up a hill – beep beep, – watch out, this could be dangerous for both of us – beep beep!” It really was interesting to watch traffic. Somehow the cars, bikes, scooters, buses and cows do seem to keep moving. But the more aggressive drivers are often rewarded by their disregard for other people waiting to get ahead.

Two-wheelers, always super exciting for children

Tuk Tuk in India

One vehicle which does allow you to travel independently was scooters. And we also did feel was safe. For 250-350 rupees plus gas, we could dart around places like Hampi, Patnem Beach (Goa) and Varkala (Kerala).

We did this numerous times and the kids loved it. I had my five-year-old in front of me or behind me and my ten-year-old behind me or sandwiching the little one. My wife had our twelve-year-old behind her. If you have never driven a scooter, it would be a good idea to get a little lesson.

Maybe practice before transporting your precious children around. But they really are easy to drive and a great way to sightsee and stop where you want on your schedule.

More Blogs from Gregor and Sarah on travelling India with children

Where to go in Kerala: Tips for Female Solo Travel

Posted on February 27, 2015May 6, 2025 by Harsh Sonawala

A blog written by Nicky Millar on where is best to visit in Kerala. She gives tips for female solo travel in Kerala from a first-hand perspective.

Kerala is arguably one of the best places to visit in India. From rolling tea plantations, sweeping game reserves to mystical backwaters. Not to mention the food, people, and climate – this place has everything!

Boat in the backwaters of Kerala

Kumily and Periyar National Park, Kerala

I started my Kerala adventure in Kumily because mudslides prevented me from getting to Munnar, which is the place to go see tea plantations. Although the weather was a little grim at the end of the monsoon period, I felt it to be a worthwhile trip.

I decided to get an auto-rickshaw tour guide. This was the first time I had done this sort of thing. But given the distance between the sites, it was well worth it. I ventured from a coffee factory to an ayurvedic spice farm, a tea plantation and finally, a view of the town that I hear is breathtaking.

The only downside was not being able to visit the Periyar Game Reserve due to extortionist prices if one is travelling alone. One of my tips for solo female travel in Kerala is that the safaris, although expensive.

If you don’t have any friends to fill that vehicle with, well then I am sorry for you. To be fair, I believe that you could go on the boat, which I am sure is fab, but I highly doubt whether wildlife spotting would be the greatest of priorities on a ferry full of families.

A deer

Visiting the Backwaters in Kerala

My advice for solo female travel in Kerala is that you are able to do just as much as you had hoped for. Visiting the backwaters is definitely a must-see adventure. After only one night (enough if you are not doing the parks), I got the bus to Kottayam and then the local ferry to Alleppey.

Although seemingly long-winded, the trip is well worth your time as you meander through the backwaters. This is at not even a tenth of the price of tourist cruises, and you have the added bonus of getting a sneak preview into the lives of the people who live along these canals.

Being the only foreigner on board there was a fabulous atmosphere and feeling of authenticity that you cannot buy for any amount of money!

My lack of friends was glaringly obvious once again when I arrived in Alleppey. It was here that I found that the houseboats are rented out individually at unattainable prices for a single-backpacker budget. Having spied them from my ferry ride, I have no doubt that it would have been a special experience.

If you are able to hire out a houseboat then I recommend staying for more than one night. This will allow you to get away from the throngs of other boats moored up alongside you. I decided to move on after one night. I got an easy bus to Ernakulam then caught a ferry to Fort Kochi.

Backwaters in Alleppey

Exploring and eating in Fort Kochi

What a wonderful city, super quaint with an eclectic mix of tourist shops/restaurants and local flavour. Though it is hungry work, I highly advise you to explore the old Jewish quarters by foot and boy was I rewarded that night! I ate possibly my single most favourite meal to date here.

Near the Chinese fishing nets, there is a fish market where you can pick out which of the day’s fresh catch tickles your fancy. I chose the squid, snapper and a dash of tiger prawns (I did share with a fellow solo traveller, don’t worry).

Once you have sussed this, a little man magically appears to guide you to his restaurant. This is where he cooks the seafood to perfection – grill/fry/spicy/herby you name it! All for a nice INR 210, I could get used to that!

Another activity I decided to do was a proper backwater tour. There are companies that conveniently source a whole bunch of singles/small groups and take them together! There are easier options if you chose to do solo female travel in Kerala. Although I ummed and ahhed for a long while about going, I am so glad I did!

While the ferry from Kottayam was great, it is unable to give you a sense of the smaller, more jungle-like backwaters. Therefore a full day trip, with lunch included, was certainly time well spent!

conclusion

Overall, while Kerala has some of the most spectacular scenery on offer, it may be worthwhile doing some research into prices if you are doing it solo or perhaps looking into tour groups.

A great tip for women travelling in Kerala is to just be flexible and willing to adjust. You can get just as much out of it as you desire.

Beaches of Kerala

For any more information on travelling to Kerala, or for any more tips on solo female travel in India, feel free to contact us!